Pal O’Mine hair on leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271235564659
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Fleecy Mfg. Co of Chicago, IL, under the Pal-O’Mine Sportswear label. It is a classic utility jacket style, with a twist. It has a shirt style collar, a brass Talon zipper, and slash handwarmer pockets. The shoulders are trimmed with hair-on cowhide for that western flair. It appears that the edges of the pockets and the shoulder yokes once had fringed trim, but that the original owner removed it.The size and styling make me think this was probably marketed at the young men’s demographic.

Chest: 19″
Sleeve: 22-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 15″
Length: 26″

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Rodeo Sport Togs lace up suede shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132682146
This vintage shirt jacket was made by the Seattle Woolen Co. under the Rodeo Sport Togs label. It has a lace-up front, a shirt cut, and a yoked back. There is a flap inside (like a gas-flap on WWII shirts) to back the lace-up portion. The lace is elasticized to make putting the shirt on easier.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 25″

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Los Angeles Sportogs leather western shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132689425
This vintage leather shirt jacket was made in California by Los Angeles Sportogs. It is an unusual style, a western pearl-snap shirt, but instead of gabardine, it is made out of white leather, with hair-on cowhide trip on the yokes, pockets, and cuffs. I particularly like the broad arrow reinforcements at the edges of the “smile” pockets. The back of the shirt-jacket has an unusual cutaway. Snaps are United Carr / DOT snapper.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26
Length: 26-1/2″

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1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
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By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

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1929

1931

1933

1934

1937

1947

1940s Californian Suede halfbelt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232887206
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their “Californian” brand. It has classic half-belt styling with side belt adjusters. The front closes with buttons, which are of the leather knot/football type. This jacket has jacket style lapels instead of the shirt style collar you generally see on short leather jackets of this style. There are dual vertical breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

 

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1930s lace up field boots

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271227002741
These vintage boots were made in the 1920s or 1930s. They are a men’s size 7, and are a tall lace up field boot style. This style was popular with hunters and workmen during this period. They have 18 eyelets, and are a rare wingtip style. They have roamer brand rubber soles, long since cracked, and Ritz brand heels. The leather has been conditioned and while it does show wear, is still supple. The soles will definitely need to be replaced if these are to be worn. They measure 11-1/4″ heel to toe (outsole).

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1950s Swedish / German Goatskin utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226620665

This vintage leather jacket was sold by Albackens of Malung, Sweden. The design is typical of what was coming out of German shops of this period. It is made of black goatskin, in a classic utility jacket style. It has a zipp zipper. There are a number of teeth missing on the zippers, but it still zips up well. There are buckle adjusters on the sides, and button tabs on the sleeves. The leather has a wonderful patina.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″ (38″ chest)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 23″

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Zippers come to jackets, 1927-1930

The fully separable zipper was invented in 1927 by Gideon Sundback. It’s covered by patents 1813433 and 1813432.
From the invention of the zipper in 1913 until that point, zippers had been limited in their usage by an attached end. It was suitable for coverall suits, luggage and pullovers. But it made it inconvenient for applications in jackets. The new unlockable/ fully separable bottom end of the zipper allowed for its easy usage on jackets. By 1930, zipper fronted jackets were well on their way to becoming common.

1925. Typical 1920s style. Button front, marketed as a windbreaker, specifically for the sporting set. Suede was extremely common in this era.
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1929. Before the modern separable bottom to the zipper, this pullover style was the workaround.
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1930. Early zipper front style.
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