Gray Blanket stripe coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262510170
This vintage jacket was made in the 1970s or 1980s. It closely follows the pattern of Hudson’s Bay point blanket jackets of the time, with its shirt style collar and buttoned patch pockets. However, I don’t believe the Hudson’s Bay Company ever produced their jackets in this period with a gray background. I have seen this pattern of fabric made by Woolrich and by Pendleton, so possibly it’s one of theirs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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1950s Rice Sportswear Coureur De Bois blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281249717086
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Canada in the 1950s by Rice Sportswear under the Coureur de Bois label. Although made with blankets from a different woolen mill, the styling is nearly identical to what was being produced and sold by the Hudson’s Bay Company at the time. These striped blanket mackinaws were, and are, a Canadian icon, as well as being stylish and practical. The blanket pattern on this one has a red background, with a broad black stripe and a skinnier black stripe. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmer pockets on the chest and patch pockets on the hip, in the traditional manner. It is fully lined, with an excellent graphic on the label. While the tag is stamped, “38”, with a 52″ chest measurement, I would say this would probably fit a size 44 or 46 better. Tagged sizes are notoriously unreliable. For the best fit, compare the provided measurements with a coat you own which you feel fits well.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 35″

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Brown and Camel Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378596257
This vintage mackinaw coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay Company in the 1940s from their iconic point blankets. This is a particularly rare model, made in a tan point blanket, instead of the more typical red and black or multi-stripe. It has the classic mackinaw cut: double breasted, belted, with patch pockets on the hips and handwarmers on the chest. The lining of the coat is a transitional style, which helps date it. Generally, mackinaw coats like this made in the 1920s and 1930s were completely unlined. In the 1940s, half linings like this one has started to come into fashion. By the 1950s, most were fully lined. The original owner’s name. “G. Lasker” is written in the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length: 34″

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1920s Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244175192

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1920s. It is tailored from red and black Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets, in a classic double breasted cut. The coat is belted, with flapped hip pockets and slash handwarmers on the chest. The belt has buttons instead of a buckle, a typically 1920s detail. As with most mackinaws of this era, this example is unlined, with finished interior seams. This blanket material was highly sought after in this era for serious outdoorsmen. Upgrading to point blanket material over standard mackinaw wool could almost double the price.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 27″

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1950s Hudson’s Bay car coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243854821
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s. It is a Hudson’s Bay point blanket style, though this particular pattern of blanket came from a different woolen mill. This single breasted car coat style was made in this blanket material during the 1950s by a variety of makers. I’ve had ones very similar to this made by Lakeland and by Albert Richard. Unfortunately, this one has lost its tags, and the details, while close to the others, are not exact, so I can not be certain on the manufacturer. It has knotted leather buttons, and belted cuffs with a very nice loop detail. The coat has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 33-1/2″

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1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243862765
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

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Jeffrey Banks / Lakeland blanket coat

 

This coat was made in the late 1970s by Lakeland, and was designed by Jeffrey Banks, in the early days of his career.  It is a classic double breasted peacoat/mackinaw style, made in red and black striped blanket material. The coat draws heavy influence from earlier decades and Lakeland products, like the 1947 “Jackinac”. The silhouette and material are straight out of the 1930s or 1940s, but updated with more modern luxuries like a quilted liner. The Lakeland x Jeffrey Banks line of the late 1970s and early 1980s was made up of these reproduction pieces, in the same way the current Ralph Lauren RRL line is today.  Another can be seen here: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/16/jeffrey-banks-lakeland-shawl-collar-mackinaw/

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1920s Patrick Duluth red mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349036566
This vintage coat was made in the late 1920s through early 1930s by the F.A. Patrick woolen mills of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made of red and black point blanket material. While nearly identical in weight, feel and point design to the point blankets made by the Hudson’s Bay Company, the material in this coat was made in-house in one of Patrick’s woolen mills. Patrick was renowned for their high quality blankets and woolen fabric. The coat has classic double breasted styling, with a button-on belt. As was typical on mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s, the coat is unlined, relying on the quality and weight of the wool for insulation. Patrick did an excellent job with marketing- their coats were the official uniforms of the White Sox, the NY Giants, the Chicago Cubs, the Duluth Eskimos (Later the Washington Redskins) among others. This is the same model, though in a different point blanket color combination, as worn by the Eskimos in the late 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 36″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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Carter & Churchill

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228705281

This vintage coat was made in the 1920s by the Carter & Churchill Company of Lebanon, NH. The point blanket fabric was the most expensive option for this style of coat at the time, offering the greatest durability and warmth. The coat has a classic early mackinaw cut, with unlined construction, handwarmer pockets high on the chest, and flapped hip pockets. The coat has a buttoned belt (later ones generally had ones with buckles). The points of the blanket are thick and proudly on display. While the company which made this coat survived in various forms for decades, they stopped using this particular tag in the early 1930s.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/4″
Length: 32-1/2″

A bit about the company, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Carter and Churchill was founded in 1869 by William S. Carter, after leaving his uncle’s company, H.W. Carter & Sons. He was joined by Frank C. Churchill (former salesman for HW Carter), who would come to be the company’s treasurer. The company was headquartered in Lebanon, New Hampshire, with a plant at 15 Parkhurst Street. Starting in 1880, they produced clothing under the “Profile” label, named after the (former) New Hampshire rock formation, the Old Man of the Mountain. They registered that trademark in 1916. Early on, they were also producers of Lebanon Overalls, work shirts, mackinaws and coats. As the decades wore on, they dropped product lines to specialize in their ski clothing lines, which they continued producing into the 1990s, under the “Profile” name.

 

 

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1960s rockabilly blanket shirt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349058704
This vintage shirt jacket was probably made in the 1960s. The influence of Hudson’s Bay point blanket coats is clear, with the classic red color scheme with black stripe. The cut is taken from a pullover shirt style of the 1950s, with two buttons at the neck. This one was probably made from a pattern for such a shirt, but made of striped material. It’s not wool, some kind of fleecy synthetic, but with its napped surface, it looks the part.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 28″

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