1910s summer vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271245474316
This vintage vest was made in the 1910s. It has an incredible weave, be sure to see the close up photo. It has five mother of pearl buttons and a belted back. There are repairs around the buttons, and staining throughout the vest. The belt is missing its buckle, and is pinned up for the photos.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)

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Belt Back Ralph Lauren summer sportcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271245467488
This sportcoat was made in Italy about six years ago by Ralph Lauren under the Polo line. It is made of slubby corded cotton, with detailing straight out of the 1930s. It has pleated patch pockets, a pleated belted back and surgeons cuffs. It has a “petal” type skeleton lining, and mother of pearl buttons. It’s tagged a 42, but measures more like a 38.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder:18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 31″

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Reproduction Shawl Collar Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141046168
This coat is a recent reproduction of a style of Mackinaw coat which was popular from the early 1910s through to the 1930s. This style of coat started out with lumberjacks in the pacific northwest at the turn of the century. It broke into mainstream fashion starting around 1912, and was quickly adopted by the collegiate crowd. Workmen and railroad men quickly saw the practicality of its collar and short length and adopted the style.

This reproduction is made of heavyweight black herringbone knit cotton, with a fleeced backing. Like many originals, it is unlined, but the fleeced interior of the fabric makes for a very comfortable jacket. It has a broad shawl collar, and four flapped patch pockets. It is single breasted. There are button adjusters at the wrists.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 29″

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Summit Town and Country Coat hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281140400237
This vest was made in the 1910s. It is made of brown canvas, with holders for 36 shotgun shells. The manufacturer, Guiterman Bros., pioneered the knit collar this vest bears. They began using it on leather jackets in 1912. By the 1920s, it would find its way onto the A-1 leather jacket. In Guiterman’s 1915 catalog, this model is identified as the M1206, and is described as a “Vest with Cartridge Holders”: “Dead Grass duck shell vest, four rows of cartridge holders for carrying thirty two cartridges, detachable buttons, adjustable strap in back; sizes 36 to 46. Each $10.”

The tag identifies the patent of the “Summit”, as Jan 30, 1912. The tag on the back identifies it as “Dri-Bak Rainproof”. The collar has extremely early U.S.F. snaps. The buttons are sewn, not detachable as the ad indicates. They have a wonderful lined pattern to them.

A bit about the maker: Guiterman Brothers was founded in 1883 and incorporated in 1904. They began using the Summit “Town & Country” name in 1904. In the early 1910s, Guiterman Brothers pioneered the attached soft collared shirt. They also called it the Summit. The company had a plant at 352 Silbey Street, St. Paul, MN, which still stands. They enjoyed prosperity during the 1910s, riding the Mackinaw boom of 1912-1915. They were supposedly the first company to coin the name “windbreaker”. As shown above, their “Town and Country” Coats and vests shared the distinctive double snap Knit-Nek. During WWI, Guiterman Bros. were one of the larger contractors for flying coats for US aviators. In 1928-1929, the company was purchased by Gordon and Ferguson.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)

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factory

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1922 ad

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M1206 – from the 1915 ad

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More vests from 1915

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AT Hendrick 1940s buckskin half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244469421
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s by A.T. Hendrick. It is made of soft, high quality buckskin leather, in a button front waist-length half-belt style. The buttons are leather “football” knot style. It has fancy bellows patch pockets, and an action back. The chest pocket has a Talon chain zipper of the type used in the 1940s.

A bit about the maker: Allie T. Hendricks was born on January 27, 1896. He worked as a clothes cleaner through the 1920s and into the 1930s. In 1936, he opened his own tailor shop in the one bedroom house at 1796 Trenton St., Denver, CO which he shared with his wife, Marie. Early directory listings indicate he produced leather jackets exclusively. Later ones use the broader term “leather goods”. Like many small western leather shops, it seems he specialized in buckskin.
There is a bit of confusion over the name – his own labels read “AT Hendrick” (no S), but his directory listings and social security records spell it “Hendricks”. He died in early 1981, aged 84.

Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

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1939

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The home where Hendricks produced his leather jackets

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Double Breasted German leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244474811
This vintage leather jacket was made in Germany in the 1960s. It was made by Erlmeier Ledermodelle. It started out life as a hip length jacket and was at some point cut down into a waist length motorcycle style. The conversion was well executed. It is double breasted with a button front, and buttons for shoulder boards. There are double-snap breast pockets. The back has a scalloped yoke.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 23″

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Pal O’Mine hair on leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271235564659
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Fleecy Mfg. Co of Chicago, IL, under the Pal-O’Mine Sportswear label. It is a classic utility jacket style, with a twist. It has a shirt style collar, a brass Talon zipper, and slash handwarmer pockets. The shoulders are trimmed with hair-on cowhide for that western flair. It appears that the edges of the pockets and the shoulder yokes once had fringed trim, but that the original owner removed it.The size and styling make me think this was probably marketed at the young men’s demographic.

Chest: 19″
Sleeve: 22-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 15″
Length: 26″

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Rodeo Sport Togs lace up suede shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132682146
This vintage shirt jacket was made by the Seattle Woolen Co. under the Rodeo Sport Togs label. It has a lace-up front, a shirt cut, and a yoked back. There is a flap inside (like a gas-flap on WWII shirts) to back the lace-up portion. The lace is elasticized to make putting the shirt on easier.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 25″

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Los Angeles Sportogs leather western shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132689425
This vintage leather shirt jacket was made in California by Los Angeles Sportogs. It is an unusual style, a western pearl-snap shirt, but instead of gabardine, it is made out of white leather, with hair-on cowhide trip on the yokes, pockets, and cuffs. I particularly like the broad arrow reinforcements at the edges of the “smile” pockets. The back of the shirt-jacket has an unusual cutaway. Snaps are United Carr / DOT snapper.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26
Length: 26-1/2″

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Ralph Lauren chambray ’20s style jeans

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132708711
These jeans were made by Ralph Lauren Polo. Their style in influenced heavily by the workwear styles of the 1920s and 1930s They are lightweight chambray with mother of pearl buttons. They have a button fly, suspender buttons and a buttoned rear pocket. There is a watch pocket with a keyhole buttonhole to but a t-bar watch chain through. They have plaid cotton pocketbags, a triple stitched inseam, and a lightly distressed finish, with faint “ink splatter”. They are tagged a size 34×32, but measure a 36×32.

Waist: 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Inseam: 32″
Outseam: 43″
Rise: 11″

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