Walter Dyer motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271176491850

This vintage leather jacket was made by the Walter Dyer company of Massachusetts. It is made of a thick, heavyweight leather, probably steerhide, perfect for motorcycle usage. I’ve heard this style of theirs referred to as a “Luftwaffe jacket”, but really, it’s a standard Cafe Racer style with a collar. There are two handwarmer pockets and two zipped breast pockets. There is an action back, and zipped cuffs. All the zippers are brass and were made by Talon. The jacket has a quilted lining, which has what looks to be an ink stain on it. Great wear and patina to the leather. The “Walter Dyer” tag is of the early leather style. It would have originally had the name in script, written in gold, but has mostly worn off.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″

 

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Powr-House shawl collar mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281078381329

This vintage shawl collar mackinaw was made under Montgomery Ward’s workwear label, Powr-House. This style was popular from the 1930s-1950s and the style remained basically unchanged during that time. It has a cotton shell, with a mouton collar and sheepskin lining. There are leather reinforcements at the corners of the pockets, and a throat latch under the shawl collar. The label and the quilted material in the sleeves make me think this is probably a ’50s version of the coat- earlier ones, while nearly identical on the exterior, would likely have had blanket wool linings in the sleeves. There is some light colored staining to the mouton collar, and at the bottom of the coat, some light colored staining, which cleaning has not been able to remove. The coat is labeled in the pocket as a size 42.

Chest (shoulder to shoulder): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″

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Red Stripe Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281078373691
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s. It is made from a red and black double-stripe blanket material. This particular coat no longer bears its original label, so the manufacturer is unknown. The Hudson’s Bay Company was the most famous maker of these blanket coats, but I have not seen a red double-stripe by them. This coat is the iconic cut for this blanket material: double breasted, belted, with handwarmer pockets and patch cargo pockets. These coats descended from the blanket capotes worn by fur traders in the 18th and 19th centuries. Due to the costly blanket material, these coats were extremely costly new. They were the ultimate in outdoors garments at the time, particularly in Canada, balancing style and rugged practicality. This example bears evidence of a lifetime of heavy use at a cabin in Ontario.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″

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LL Bean blanket stripe coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281078325621

This vintage coat was made by LL Bean. It is a classic striped point blanket style, made famous by the offerings of the Hudson’s Bay company. The HBC version had four stripes, of indigo, yellow, red and green. This version has broader stripes, of black, red and yellow. These coats were very expensive new, with their high quality blanket material, and were generally offered by the higher end outdoors outfitters of the time. This is a somewhat newer version, produced in the 1960s or 1970s, but its style is extremely classic with the biggest difference being its warm, bright red acrylic pile lining. It is a single breasted style with handwarmer pockets and flapped patch pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″ = size 44)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″

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Eaton’s striped blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271172356785

This vintage blanket coat was sold by Eaton’s under their “Gleneaton” label. It is made of a Canadian-loomed “Ayers” white and yellow point blanket. The coat has a double breasted front, and a quilted lining. It has a pleated vent, and knitted storm cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″

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Cambridge Dry Goods barn jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271172287868

This jacket was made by Cambridge Dry Goods. It is an interesting mix of preppy styles, taking the basic form of a classic canvas barn jacket, with its six pocket front, and mixing it with the contrast taped seams of boating blazers and school uniforms. The underside of the collar, the pockets and the lining are all tartan.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″

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1942 Shawl Collar army officer’s mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281072588867

This vintage army officer’s shawl collar mackinaw was issued in 1942. It was made by the ambiguous “Mfr. 478″ and issued by the Philadelphia quartermaster’s depot. If features a pointed end belt, a plain liner, and no sleeve adjuster tabs. The belt loops are positioned on the front of the coat, whereas on the other examples I am currently selling they are positioned further back.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (top of collar to hem): 38”

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Hudson’s Bay point blanket shirt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281067893704

This vintage jacket was made by the Hudson’s Bay Company from their iconic multi-stripe point blankets. It is single breasted, with a shirt style collar and cuffs, and flapped patch pockets. The lining material on the back side of the pocket flaps is heavily worn, as is typical. The jacket has taped seams and lined shoulders. It has a small variant of the Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket tag.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Shoulder to Cuff: 26″

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Hudson’s Bay Blanket coats

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Made from Hudson’s Bay point blankets, these striped coats are iconically Canadian. The blanket design was introduced in the late 1700s by the HBC, and the material was soon adapted into coats by fur traders. Point blanket coats remained popular in Canada, first as utilitarian garments, later as fashion. The true Hudson’s Bay blankets were made in England. Some were tailored for and sold by the Bay, others, while they bear the fabric tag showing they were made from Hudson’s Bay blankets, were made into coats by and were retailed by third party companies, as is the case with the red Maine Guide coat pictured below.

Right from the start, there were competitor companies with their own striped trade blankets, like Early’s Witney Point, Horn Brothers, Trapper Point, or Ayers. The list went on, each with their own variation on the basic striped scheme. Many of these also made their way into the production of coats and jackets. The classic 20th century point blanket coat is a double breasted, belted mackinaw style, though the fabric has been tailored into everything from a “perfecto” style motorcycle jacket to a pullover hoodie.

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Recreation of HBC trading post, featuring point blanket capotes at left.
Hudson’s Bay Company Gallery, Manitoba Museum, Winnipeg

Examples from my collection
Top Row:
1950s Hudson’s Bay: The classic cut and colors. Interesting in that the orientation of the stripes is reversed from the usual
1960s Hudson’s Bay: Men’s shirt style. Also commonly seen in a women’s version.

Second Row:
c.1950s/1960s Mac Mor: Company founded in 1951, based out of North York, Ontario.
c. 1960s Gleneaton. Made of Ayers blanket. Milium insulated

Third Row:
1930s Hudson’s Bay. Very old one, with buttoned belt. Had buttons under collar for a hood
1940s Hudson’s Bay/ Maine Guide. Tailored by Maine Guide from HBC blanket

Fourth Row:
1960s Lakeland: Designed by Jeffrey Banks. 1949 union label. Same style blanket as the Buckskein, but reversed orientation
1950s Buck skein: Duffle coat style. “Thermalized” lining

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The bold patterns and bright colors of these blanket coats put them squarely into the “love it or hate it” category of vintage menswear, and outside of their native Canadian habitat can seem a bit out of context. While they can seem a bit flashy by modern menswear standards, these coats came from a rugged outdoor tradition.
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Photo from LIFE magazine photo archive

Men’s striped blanket coats are still available from a variety of makers, but they seem to have shied away from the traditional vibrant colors, opting instead for more subdued earth tones and shades of gray. While the Hudson’s Bay Company still retails their blankets (they now sell between $370 and $580), in an odd twist, their former competitors in the camp blanket market are now working with them. The material used in their current production blanket coats is made by Pendleton Woolen Mills. The blankets are distributed in the US by Woolrich Woolen Mills.

Current and recent offerings:

Rag and Bone $995

Freewheelers (Japan) BC Coat $990

Hudson Bay Company duffle $950

Monitaly Riders $949

Klaxon Howl

Hudson Bay Company $850

Burn Out (Japan) $540

Loyal $502

Fidelity $475

Houston (Japan) $267

Ralph Lauren duffle $265

Ralph Lauren

River Junction $260

Gap x GQ Ian Velardi $178

Topman $164

Whether vintage or modern, find your inner Canuck and give a blanket coat a chance.

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