10 and 12 gauge shotgun vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286311294
This vintage hunting vest was likely made in the 1930s or 1940s. It has a five button front, belted back and thirty four loops for both 10 and 12 gauge shotgun shells. Later vests had generally switched away from the closed bottomed canvas loops, and to easier to produce knit loops, as well as switching from belted to plain backs. This example is made from fairly lightweight, breathable canvas.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Length: 21″

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Stevens 3X beaver fedora hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271280869693
This vintage hat was made in the late 1940s by Stevens. It is a high quality 3x beaver fur felt, with a seamless “hand felted” edge. This was Stevens’ term for their version of the Cavanagh Edge / Mode Edge, a finish no longer available today. The felt is silverbelly with a champagne colored grosgrain ribbon. The Bow has a jaunty slanting knot, and an intentionally frayed trailing edge to the bow, a hold-over of a detail popular in the 1930s and before. Inside, the hat has a brown leather sweatband, marked “Hand Felted Edge”, and with the name of the store it was originally sold at: “President Shops – Troost At 31st, Kansas City, MO”. The liner has the Stevens crest. The re-order tag underneath the sweatband gives the size: a 7-1/2.

Size: 7-1/2
Brim Width: 2-3/4″
Crown Height: 6″
Ribbon Width: 1-3/4″

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1950s Penney’s workwear suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271280900728
This vintage suit was made c. 1958 by Penney’s. It is made of wool whipcord in a workwear / western style. The jacket is a fairly standard workwear cossack style, with a zipper front, action back, cargo and handwarmer pockets, a zip breast pocket, and button adjusters on the cuffs and waist. Zippers are both brass Talons of the type used in the 1950s. The jacket is unlined. While the jacket is in good shape, the pants of the suit are more heavily worn and faded. They have the Penney’s tag as well. The waistband has a rubber “chain” to keep the wearer’s shirt tucked in, however the rubber is now crumbling. The fly has a brass Talon zip. The pants are cuffed.

Jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 23″
Waistband: 20″ (doubled = 40″)

Pants
Waist (side to side): 17-1/2″ (doubled = 35″)
Outseam: 40″
Inseam: 29″
Rise: 11″
Cuff: 10″ (doubled = 20″)
Cuff Depth: 1-3/4″

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1920s Duxbak vest – size 42

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271278932633
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. The DuxBak line was started in 1906 by Bird, Jones and Kenyon, and had a factory located at 1 Blandina St., Utica, NY. Prior to the 1920s, Duxbak used the slogan “Duxbak Sportsman’s Clothing” in their advertisements and on their tags. During the 1920s, they switched to ” Duxbak Rain Proof Sportsman’s Clothing”. By the 1930s, they had changed their label to include a graphic of a hunter, and to emphasize “Utica”.

This shell vest design changed very little from when it was introduced in the early 1900s until this one was produced. As it was a garment of pure function, it was not beholden to the whims of fashion. A good design was a good design, and they stuck with it. It has loops for 32 shotgun shells on the front and 16 on the back, for a total of 48. The loops have a canvas top and an early rubber elastic bottom. They are of an open bottomed design, and have leather reinforcement tabs at the end of each row of loops. The vest has a five button front and all buttons bear the duxbak name. This vest was sold originally by the Ambrose Sporting Goods Co., which was located at 132 South Main Street, Memphis, TN. The company seems to have had their peak in the late 1920s, although they did make it through the depression.

Tagged Size:
Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Length (neck to hem down back):19-1/2″

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1930s Woolrich hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271277514189

This is a rare early variant of the classic Woolrich hunting coat. Most Woolrich coats you see are from the 1950s or 1960s. Coats of that era have snaps withe the “Woolrich” name on them. They have labels with a slimmed down sheep and a (R) registered trademark symbol in the corner. This one dates from the late 1930s, and has a number of details which differentiate it from the later, more common versions. The pocket snaps on this one are of the style used in the 1930s and before, with a meander pattern encircled by dots. The label is of the style used from the mid-late 1930s, with a blocky sheep, green text and a green border. Woolrich was an early adopter of zippers on their hunting garments. This one has twin double-marked Talon zippers on the game pocket. This is the style used in the late ’30s- early 1940s, with a beveled edge puller with a small hole, the Talon name on the component which attaches the slider to the puller, and the full “Made in U.S.A.” text on the back of the slider. By the 1940s, Woolrich had abandoned the use of zippers on their game pockets, in favor of a simpler and more easily repaired (though less secure) single button. With purely functional workwear and hunting items such as this, they were passed down for generations and worn hard, as there was no regard for changing styles, and a deer is unlikely to call the fashion police. The coat has a fair bit of mothing to the shell, but is in better shape than most I’ve seen from this era. Although there is some, there is also much less wear and staining than usually seen to the liner, the neck and the cuffs, the areas generally most heavily hit.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 30″

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1930s American Field hunting jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281168068268
This vintage coat was made in the late 1930s by the Hettrick Mfg. Co. of Toldeo, Ohio. This was their signature model, the “Gun Coat”, with “free swing” shoulders, a corduroy collar and cuffs, roughout horsehide shoulder reinforcement, a gun pad on the right shoulder, large pockets, and an interior game pocket. The water-resistant game pocket does up with bell shaped Talon zippers. At the end of the listing are a couple of ads for this model of coat, dating from 1936 and from 1940.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-3/4″
Length: 28″

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New Jersey Frozen Foods custom leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271277523946
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s. It has a classic casual cut, sportcoat length. The jacket has a scaloped yoke on the back, which, along with the horseshoe belt buckle give the jacket an under-the-radar western vibe. The jacket has a button-on belt. Many jackets of this length from the 1930s-1950s had button on belts like this, but lost them over the years, it’s uncommon to find one still paired with the belt. There are two breast pockets which fasten with Conmar chain zippers. The main zipper is also a Conmar. The jacket’s label reads “Custom Made Deerskin Sportswear, New Jersey Frozen Foods, Inc., Morristown, NJ”. Somewhat of an unusual firm to be making leather jackets, but similarity to other leather jacket maker’s patterns make me think that it was produced by a third party factory, probably one of the Wisconsin deerskin jacket factories and sold by NJFF. The jacket is fully lined, with a material change about half-way down.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-12″
Length: 32″

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Bailey B Bar B Cowboy Hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271274160936
This vintage cowboy hat was made in the mid to late 1950s by Bailey hats under their “B Bar B” western line. It is made of high quality 3X fur felt. Please remember that the X rating system has inflated grossly over the past half-century, and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. This is very nice felt. It is trimmed with a two cord band, and has a raw edge brim. The hat has a brown leather sweatband, stamped with the Bailey logo. It was sold in Bozeman, Montana by Wagner’s.

Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 3-1/2″
Crown Height: 5-3/4″

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Early 1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271264162910
This vintage leather jacket was made in the early 1940s. Unfortunately, the maker’s tag is long gone, but it can be fairly accurately dated using other details. In one of the pockets is a union tag from the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. The last digit of the tag is mis-printed, but I believe it’s a 1939 tag, not a 1936. This puts the dating between 1939, when that tag first came into usage, and 1949, when it was replaced by a different design. The zipper is a spring loaded crown zipper, of the type used in the early 1940s, notably on several contracts of Army Air Force A-2 flight jackets. That narrows the dating from about 1939 to 1945.

The leather, still nicely soft and supple, has developed a nice fade and patina from its original russet brown color through decades of wear. The wear is heaviest on the neck of the collar, the hem and the cuffs. The jacket’s design is a classic: half belt back with side belt adjusters. The back has pleats to bring it in at the waist. On the front, there are two small flapped pockets, with double stitching to give them the look of patch pockets. Above them are buttoned, vertical chest pockets. The pockets are lined in a soft cotton flannel, and are presumably designed as hand-warmers. The body of the jacket is lined with plaid cotton in cream, blue and brown, and the sleeves in plain cotton.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1940s Adam Homburg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271262932483
This vintage homburg was made by the Adam hat company in the late 1940s. It is gray fur felt, with a black ribbon and wind string and a bound brim. The hat has a brown leather sweatband, marked “Adam Executive, Cushioned for Comfort”, and “A product of Adam – America’s famous hatter”. The hat has a fancy pleated lining with the Adam logo. The size tag also bears the Adam name, and indicates that it is a 7-1/4, though it seems to have shrunk slightly. The hat has a center dent and front pinches. Despite the formal reputation that hats like this now have, at the time, they were worn in a variety of situations, from casual to semi-formal. The pinches dress the hat down a bit.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 2-3/4″
Ribbon Width: 2″
Crown Height: 5-1/2″

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