This vintage hat was custom made by Peters Brothers of Fort Worth, Texas. It is their famed “Shady Oak Banker’s Special” model, in the One Hundred grade, meaning that when it originally retailed for $100, at a time when the average fur felt hat in a comparable style was running about $20. The hat has a seamless welt edge. Cavanagh called their version the Cavanagh Edge. Stetson called theirs the Mode Edge. The hat has a narrow, western style single cord hat band.
This vintage fedora was made in the early 1960s by the John B. Stetson company. At that time, it retailed for $40. This was a time frame when the average fur felt Stetson sold for around $10. This was topped in the lineup by the 7X clear beaver Stetson, which sold for $50, and the Stetson 100, which sold for $100. Both the 7X and the 100 were “Clear Beaver Quality”, or undyed pure beaver. I have sold a number of these hats, and the felt on this one is nearly identical, with the important difference that it is dyed instead of a natural color.
The hat has Stetson’s “Mode Edge”, their version of the seamless welt Cavanagh edge, a process no longer available today. The hat has a wide ribbon and a wind string and is creased with a center dent and widely spaced front pinches. Inside, the hat has a black sweatband, stamped with the Stetson crest and the felt designation “Stetson Forty”. A slightly different crest, which came into usage in the early 1950s, is in gold on the liner. The hat was originally sold by the Pantke Harpke company of Milwaukee, WI.
This vintage hat was made in the late 1940s by Stevens. It is a high quality 3x beaver fur felt, with a seamless “hand felted” edge. This was Stevens’ term for their version of the Cavanagh Edge / Mode Edge, a finish no longer available today. The felt is silverbelly with a champagne colored grosgrain ribbon. The Bow has a jaunty slanting knot, and an intentionally frayed trailing edge to the bow, a hold-over of a detail popular in the 1930s and before. Inside, the hat has a brown leather sweatband, marked “Hand Felted Edge”, and with the name of the store it was originally sold at: “President Shops – Troost At 31st, Kansas City, MO”. The liner has the Stevens crest. The re-order tag underneath the sweatband gives the size: a 7-1/2.
This vintage fedora was made in the 1940s by Stetson. It is their 7X Clear Beaver Quality. Pure, undyed beaver, with a mode edge. When it was new, this hat would have cost $50, a lot of money at the time. It has a reeded sweatband, with the 1940s version of the Stetson Crest. The sweatband is deeply blind embossed “mode-edge”. The hat was originally sold by Charles of Atlantic City, located at 1627-29 Boardwalk. There is a moth bite on the brim at the reed seam, and some staining on the wind string button. The crown has a diamond crease. The liner is Rayon Satin of Celanese yarn.