1930s NRA tagged Chippewa chinstrap work shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281560153366
This vintage shirt was made in Wisconsin between 1933 and 1935 by the Chippewa Falls Woolen Mill under the Chippewa label. It is made of red and black wool, with long tails, buttoned breast pockets, and a extension tab or ” chinstrap ” collar stand. These shirts were popular workwear during the fall and winter months. The shirt bears a NRA Cotton Code (National Recovery Act) tag, which helps date it within a three year span.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 32″

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Chinstrap WWII Army Shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281298794445
This vintage shirt was made in the 1940s. it has two chest pockets one with a pencil pocket, double button cuffs and epaulettes. It has a chinstrap collar stand, a detail common on workshirts of the 1920s-1930s. The maker of this shirt likely was primarily a maker of those workshirts before being awarded the contract to make this one for the Army.

Collar: 15-1/2″
Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s Big Yank chinstrap workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271435207029
This vintage workshirt was made by famed workwear manufacturer, Big Yank, in the 1930s. The shirt has an extended, double button collar stand, now known as a chinstrap. There are two spacious, flapped breast pockets. Seams are triple stitched. Shoulders are reinforced, as are the elbows. The tails are gusseted. The blue chambray versions of this style were popular in the summer, while wool versions, like this one, were worn in the winter. There is the remains of a Dewitt Clinton Cigarette tax stamp in one of the pockets, possibly series 108 from 1938

Tagged size: 16-1/2
Collar: 16-1/2″
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-1/2″

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1920s hookless zipper front pullover Hudson’s Bay jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271422243118
This vintage jacket was made in the 1920s. It was tailored from Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, at the time, one of the most expensive wools on the market, prized for its warmth and vibrant colors.
The jacket is a pullover style, with an A-1 style knit waistband. The separable-bottomed zipper was not introduced by Hookless/Talon until 1930. Prior to that point, if a manufacturer wanted a zip-front to a jacket, it had to be closed-bottomed, which meant a pullover style. This zipper is an extremely rare early Hookless, dating to the 1920s. It has a bent wire pull, probably meant for a leather pull attachment. This design pre-dated the grommet-zipper by a good five years or more.
It has a shirt style collar, with a long chinstrap, a detail borrowed from work clothing. The opening of the zipper has a layer of wool behind it to keep anything from becoming snagged in the teeth of the zipper. The Hudson’s Bay Company label bears the logo used in the 1920s, pre-dating the inclusion of registration numbers in the late 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″ (Replacement of missing cuffs would probably bring length to 24-25″)
Length: 27″

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WWI pullover chinstrap army shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281230818394
This vintage wool shirt was made by the Metropolitan Shirt Company during WWI. This was a private purchase item, deviating from the standard pattern slightly. It is a pullover style, with an extended collar stand chinstrap. It has tail gussets. There are two small flapped breast pockets. The placket and the collar stand are cotton lined. These shirts were commonly worn after the end of the war in the 1920s as workshirts.

Chest: 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length: 30″
Collar: 14″

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1920s Wool A-1 jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196431961

This vintage jacket was made prior to 1926 in a wool A-1 style out of Hudson’s Bay point blankets.

In the early 1920s, a style of jacket emerged that would later come to be adapted into the A-1 flight jacket. This style had knit cuffs, a knit collar and a knit waistband, to keep of the wind and cold. It was produced in both wool and leather, and was marketed toward men who spent time out of doors- workmen and sportsmen. By the mid 1920s, the style started to evolve, with some makers dropping the knit collar for one in a shirt style made of the same material as the body. That variant, made in leather, later became the A-2 flight jacket. This jacket dates from the transitional period between the two. It has a waist length cut with a knit waistband and cuffs. It has a button front, as the separable bottomed zipper pioneered by Hookless Fastener, which allowed for zipper fronted jackets, would not go into production until 1930. Although most jackets of this style had flapped patch pockets, the positioning of them varied by maker and model. While some had them down towards the waistband in a setup now considered conventional, this one has them positioned midway up the chest.

The chinstrap detail is taken straight from workshirts of the period- constructed in the same way, with an extended collar stand with two buttonholes. The two tone nature of the red and black blanket material allows for a great two tone look, highlighting the pocket flaps and the collar.

The jacket is constructed from a three point sized Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket. This material would have pushed this particular jacket into the top of the line position for this style. Jackets such as this made from HBC blankets were regularly double (or more) the cost of a heavyweight wool jacket of the same model and manufacturer. It was often an even pricier material option than the horsehide or capeskin leather options. The Hudson Bay blankets have a long and proud tradition in the history of rugged clothing for outdoorsmen. An icon of Canadian culture, the blankets at this time were made in England. The first mackinaw coats were tailored from then in 1780. Fur traders wore Capotes made from this fabric throughout the 19th century. Lumbermen of the late 19th and early 20th century prized the brightly colored coats as being the best on the market for warmth and durability. This one bears an early style label, before the “Reg. No.” was added to the bottom in 1926.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (to bottom of knit): 27-1/2″

 

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These ads are from the 1930s, but give an idea of the pricepoint comparisons. In this period, they were frequently advertised alongside horsehide and mouton ” Grizzly ” jackets, and other such expensive and rugged garments.  photo 193606Stitch-Copy.jpg

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Ralph Lauren chinstrap workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271245777345
This shirt was made by Ralph Lauren and is a reproduction of a 1920s or 1930s work shirt. It is made of a black and white checked cotton, with a chinstrap collar stand, a point collar, two breast pockets, tail gussets, and curved front tails with a placket that ends after the 5th button down.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Collar: 16-1/2″

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1920s Silk Shirt w/ chinstrap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281082400001

This vintage shirt was made by AHL fine shirts. It is an extremely fine and expensive grade of silk. It has twin breast pockets, hidden collar buttons and a chinstrap, and a half placket with curved tails. The shirt came from the same estate as another silk shirt I’m listing, which was originally sold in Butte, Montana.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Collar: 16″

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