1950s Deerskin leather half-belt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263966868
This vintage leather jacket was made from deerskin, probably in the late 1950s or 1960s. I have had this exact pattern of jacket before, but with a zipper front instead of the button front which this one sports. The other one had a mid 1950s Conmar zipper. However, many of these small deerskin jacket tailors kept the same exact pattern for years, so it could well go into the 1960s. With that said, it’s a button front, surcoat length halfbelt. It has slash handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, and has two zipper closure pockets on the chest. The back has a subtly western scalloped yoke and a half-belt.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 31-1/2″

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1950s German Leather Overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263975843
This vintage leather overcoat was made in Germany in the 1950s. It is made from heavy russet brown leather- probably steerhide. It has yoked shoulders, a buttonless double breasted front, slash handwarmers, zipper pockets on the chest, and a zipper pocket behind the lapel. All zippers are riri. The coat has a full plaid lining and an intenal snap fastening belt. The back of the coat has a nice double inverted (non-functional) pleat sunburst design.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

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Parker’s western blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263906903
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s or 1950s by Parkers of 200 N. Center Street, Reno, Nevada. It is their Mr. Windsor model. Made from gray wool, it has a black stripe, reminiscent of Hudson’s Bay point blanket coats. Unlike those, however, the stripe is a separate piece of wool. There are fancy western yokes on the front and back, and pleats with contrasting black wool inside to really make them pop. The jacket has peak lapels, square tails, and a full lining.

Tagged Size: 44R
Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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1940s Patrick Duluth zipper mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378671133
This vintage hunting coat was made by the F.A. Patrick Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota in the late 1940s. It is an evolution / update of the traditional mackinaw form, made by the originators of the mackinaw style. It has a zipper front, with flapped breast and hip pockets, and slash handwarmers on the chest. There is rear access to an internal game pouch. The coat has a mustard colored lining of the same sort used by Woolrich on their line of hunting coats. The main zip is of the style used in the mid 1940s, with a square cornered puller. The game pocket zippers are of the rounded corner type which began to be used around 1947. This overlap likely puts the date around 1947 or 1948.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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1950s Rice Sportswear Coureur De Bois blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281249717086
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Canada in the 1950s by Rice Sportswear under the Coureur de Bois label. Although made with blankets from a different woolen mill, the styling is nearly identical to what was being produced and sold by the Hudson’s Bay Company at the time. These striped blanket mackinaws were, and are, a Canadian icon, as well as being stylish and practical. The blanket pattern on this one has a red background, with a broad black stripe and a skinnier black stripe. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmer pockets on the chest and patch pockets on the hip, in the traditional manner. It is fully lined, with an excellent graphic on the label. While the tag is stamped, “38”, with a 52″ chest measurement, I would say this would probably fit a size 44 or 46 better. Tagged sizes are notoriously unreliable. For the best fit, compare the provided measurements with a coat you own which you feel fits well.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 35″

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Canadian army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371781839

This vintage mackinaw was made in 1952 for the Canadian army. Stylistically, it is almost identical to civilian Sheeplined mackinaws of the 1920s-1940s. It is, however, made of tougher stuff than most civilian (or US army) mackinaws of this style. The canvas shell is extremely heavy and rugged. The waist belt is much wider than is typical, and is has keeper loops to secure it to the belt loops so that it is not lost, as so often happens. The coat is fully lined in blue green pile, which is less fragile than the sheepskin linings in these can be this many years on. The sleeves are also lined in this material, and have extra long storm cuffs. The coat was made by the Scott Leather Goods Co. of Montreal, and is tagged a size 40.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-1/2″
Length: 36″

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1950s Hudson’s Bay car coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243854821
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s. It is a Hudson’s Bay point blanket style, though this particular pattern of blanket came from a different woolen mill. This single breasted car coat style was made in this blanket material during the 1950s by a variety of makers. I’ve had ones very similar to this made by Lakeland and by Albert Richard. Unfortunately, this one has lost its tags, and the details, while close to the others, are not exact, so I can not be certain on the manufacturer. It has knotted leather buttons, and belted cuffs with a very nice loop detail. The coat has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 33-1/2″

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1950s Brent halfbelt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243867632

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s by Brent, a house brand of Montgomery Ward. It is a heavy leather, probably steerhide, but possibly horsehide- without a label it’s hard to be positive. The jacket has a half-belt back and a slanted zipper closure breast pocket. Zippers are by Conmar. The jacket has a quilted lining and storm cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

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Western Costume shawl collar jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231689469
This vintage jacket came from the warehouses of Western Costume of Hollywood, and was used in Westerns and in 19th century period pieces. With the texture of the fabric and the placement of the pockets, I would guess that this was probably cut down from an old shawl collared overcoat or mackinaw, and had the collar trim and extra buttonholes added by Western Costume. The jacket has fairly heavy wear, which is to be expected from something that’s been in a movie costume department for decades.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 20″

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