Zipper Front Woolrich Jacket

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204250052
This vintage jacket was made in the years immediately following WWII. It is the zipper fronted version of Woolrich’s cossack style. In another listing, I have a slightly earlier button front version of the same style. The zipper is of a transitional style used immediately after WWII, with a Talon branded stopbox and a square sided slider. The jacket has a single patch breast pocket with a cateye button, and handwarmer pockets. The jacket is tagged a size 36, but measures more like a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 24-1/2″

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Rem DriDux

Posted on November 9, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204172608
This vintage fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s by Remington under the Rem DriDux label. The fabric was advertised as “snag-pruf” and as being guaranteed water repellent. There are pleated breast pockets, and wraparound double hip pockets. One has a divider with separate flaps, one has a single flap. There is a fly rod loop, a waist drawstring, pockets on each sleeve, and a roomy rear game pocket. Hanging from the fly rod loop is a pair of nail clippers, probably to cut fishing line with. There are two interior pockets. This type of vest was generally advertised as a sleeveless jacket or a sleeveless coat. I recently sold another by the same maker, sold under the “WeatherBak” label, which had sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Length: 23″

J.O. Ballard Malone mackinaw

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281200082748
This vintage mackinaw was made by J.O. Ballard & Co. of Malone, New York. The company was founded in 1888 by Jay Olin Ballard, and traded alternately under the J.O Ballard name and the name, Malone Woolen Mills. The company began making wool outdoorsman’s breeches in 1891 and followed up with mackinaw coats like this one. They were famous for their Malone plaid- gray with red and green overchecks. Coats of this cut were advertised to hunters, hikers, mountain climbers, lumberjacks, workmen and all other stripes of outdoorsmen. The depression closed the company in 1933. It re-opened again in 1935 with the assistance of an Reconstruction Finance Corporation loan, a depression era loan program.
The coat has four flapped pockets and two slash pockets. The slash pockets, in the traditional position of handwarmer pockets, pass through directly to the game pocket. There is also access to the game pocket from flaps on the back of the coat. Unlike the similar Woolrich design, this one has buttons on the pockets instead of snaps and exposed buttoning on the front. The lining is mustard colored cotton. The sleeves have buttoned adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

Guiterman Bros 1930s Town and Country leather jacket

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307079241
This vintage leather jacket was made in the early to mid 1930s by Guiterman Brothers, under the Town and Country label. The company was founded in 1883, and began the “Town and Country” line in 1904. They produced flying coats for US aviators during World War One, and pioneered early civilian leather jacket designs starting in the 1910s. In c. 1928, the company was bought out by Gordon and Ferguson, who continued the line. This jacket as a rare early example of a button-front Cossack jacket. Early Cossack jackets, c. 1930-c.1934 generally featured leather waistband and plain backs. This is an early example of the transitional style, retaining the collar, cuff and pocket detailing from the early jackets, but moving away into what would become the half-belt jackets of the later 1930s-1950s. The back is belted, with bi-swing shoulders and side adjusters. The front still has an old style button front, instead of a hookless zipper. The jacket buttons right over left, which, along with the shoulder darts, identify this as a women’s jacket. Other than these details, early on, men’s and women’s styles were generally extremely similar patterns. As was typical of many of these early jackets, this one is made with the suede side out. For jackets of this style, it wasn’t until later in the 1930s that weight started to become a major concern. These were really designed as lightweight leather windbreakers for sporting activities. Gordon and Ferguson had the exclusive rights to the Cravenette process for leather, and it is employed on this one.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23″

Ad from 1934.

Ad from 1935

NRA labeled Miller cowboy hat

Posted on October 30, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271309667400
This vintage cowboy hat was made in the early 1930s and was sold by Miller of Denver, Colorado. It is NRA (National Recovery Administration) tagged, which dates it manufacture between 1933 to 1935. Under the sweatband is a Lot number, of the type used by Stetson on their sweatbands. Comparing this number to others found on NRA tagged hats places this one on the early end of the 1933-35 spectrum. I addition to hats under their own name, Miller was a large distributer of Stetson hats. With a type of sweatband so far only known to be used by Stetson this could have been produced under license by Stetson for Miller. The reorder tag is of a generic type with no maker’s name, so it’s a bit of a mystery. The hat is marked XXXX quality, and has the gold “Miller Fine Hats Denver Colorado” bucking bronco logo embossed on the leather. The sweatband has a taped rear seam, and appears to have received very little wear.

Size: 6-7/8
Brim Width: 4″
Ribbon Width: 1″
Crown Height: 6-1/2″

1930s AlPeru overcoat

Posted on October 30, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281197994086
This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s by Roger Williams from Alperu fabric and was sold by The Fair, either at their Chicago or Oak Park location. In the 1930s, these Alperu fabric overcoats retailed for $40. In today’s money, that’s the equivalent of a $650 coat. Despite the “Warmth Without Weight” slogan, this is quite a heavyweight coat. It is single breasted, with notch lapels, flapped patch pockets and half-cuffed sleeves. The coat is fully lined and has a vertical interior breast pocket.

I love all these brand names from the 1930s and 1940s. Alperu. Alpacama, Alpagora, IncaPaca, Algora, BalPaca, etc.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″(doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 44″

Pre-War R. Plankl loden mackinaw

Posted on October 27, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196380619
This vintage coat was made in Austria before WWII by R. Plankl of Vienna. R. Plankl was founded in 1830, and is one of the oldest and most respected makers and dealers of loden wool goods in the world. While examples of their work from the 1960s and 1970s come on the market fairly regularly, it’s exceedingly rare to see anything from the 1920s or 1930s period.
This coat is made of high quality loden wool, with a nice nap to it. The front follows the basic layout of what in America was called the mackinaw coat. Double breasted, flapped pockets with slash handwarmers above. The sleeves have stylishly angled buttoned adjuster belts. The back of the coat is belted, with a deep pleat starting at the shoulders and continuing to the hem, for additional freedom of motion while wearing the coat. The coat is unlined in most of the body, with a double layer in the front and in the shoulders. There are two buttoned interior pockets. The label is of a style commonly seen in the 1920s and 1930s, with a black background and yellow text. The tag reads ” Wien / R. Plankl / I. Michaelerplatz 6″, and has a logo of a rucksack with crossed ice axes.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 33″

Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195223460

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. While I have seen several of this particular model, none have had any tags. Originally, these coats were known as “sheeplined” coats, and were popular with railroad men, ranchers and other men who worked outdoors, as they were light for their warmth when compared to wool coats, and were particularly hard wearing. This one defies that name slightly by having an alpaca pile lining and collar. As is typical of the style, instead of buttonholes, this coat has loops, in this instance made from leather. Likewise, the pockets are reinforced with leather. There is a waterproof layer in between the outer canvas layer and the inner warm lining. In lieu of a tag, there is a military style size stamp at the bottom of the coat.

Chest (pit to pit): 34″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 33″

Late 1920s tweed jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195246419

This vintage jacket was made in the late 1920s or very early 1930s by Capps clothes. It is made of a bold herringbone tweed. The jacket has fishmouth peak lapels, a slanted breast pocket, and a three button front. The jacket is unvented, has a cotton petal lining with taped seams. The jacket is deadstock and still has the original tag, identifying the model as “York”, sewn under the collar. This is the perfect jacket for an upcoming tweed ride, tweed pub crawl or general autumnal wear.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 29″

1940s snap front hunting vest

Posted on October 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271301558605
This vintage hunting vest was probably made in the 1930s or 1940s. Dating these vintage hunting vests can sometimes be a bit difficult without labels, as the designs followed what was practical rather than what was fashionable. I have seen other examples of this vest design, but all were like this, without label. It’s an unusual design, deviating from the standard “vest with loops on the front and maybe a belt on the back”. There are two pleated breast pockets, one with a snap closure, the other with a grommet. Instead of the usual button front, this one has snaps, but it goes one further by concealing them. Snaps are “United Carr”. There are closed bottomed canvas pockets for eighteen shotgun shells. The back of the vest has a large bellows game bag, with a waterproof lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Length: 25″

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