1930s Irish Tweed overcoat

As seen HERE

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281070726333

This vintage overcoat was made in the mid 1930s from “Obrien Fleece” tweed. It was sold in Saint Paul, Minnesota by the Golden Rule store. Obrien Fleece was a high end Irish tweed fabric of the period, made, as the tag states, in the Irish Free State. The Irish Free State existed from 1922-1937, which helps to date this coat. It has classic double breasted styling with raglan shoulders, patch pockets and cuffed sleeves. There is a throat latch inside the coat by the store label. A somewhat unusual feature is the small interior pocket, closed with an early Talon ball and chain zipper. The Talon name is seen on the slider and on the ball. Really incredible, detailed labels.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Raglan sleeve (center to cuff): 36″

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For more on trade with the Irish Free State (and some great art) see HERE

Shawl Collar army mackinaw

I feel that the shawl collared officer’s Mackinaw is one of the best looking, most practical coats to have come out of WWII. I’ve sold two so far, one by the Progressive Clothing Mfg. Co. (full post), the other a custom job for Captain H. W. Largent of Presque Isle, Maine (full post).  I have a spot on repro done in the ’60s by Lakeland in bright red wool, and three more originals that I should be listing next week.  The design was essentially a civilian one, a holdover from a style popular in the ’20s for wool outdoors and hunting coats, like the ones seen in this post. I believe the original pattern from which this coat evolved was an m1926.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281070705722

This vintage shawl collar mackinaw was custom tailored during WWII for an army officer. It has a wide shawl collar, epaulettes, a double breasted front and flapped patch pockets. The coat is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″

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WWII army officer’s overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281070713310
This vintage overcoat was made for an Army officer during WWII. Buttons of the type seen more typically on the short mackinaw overcoats. Nipped waist, belted back. Bad mothing on back near vent and hem.

Chest: 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″

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Women’s Mouton Collar Overcoat

I have sold a number of these, a Philcraft, a Supreme Fashion Tailored, a Zero King and a McDorsey. Not great sellers, in all honesty, but fantastic coats. Great materials, stylish, practical, and with the wide shoulders and nipped waist, really evocative of the era. I bought this one off the internet thinking it would be another of the same, but it shows up, and it’s not a men’s coat from the estate of a WWII vet as the seller claimed, but the ladies version, probably belonging to his wife. If you’re a seller- I’m probably the kind of guy you want as a buyer, because I didn’t complain. It’s interesting, having both the men’s and women’s versions, to compare the two. This is still a remarkably masculine cut. The defining feature of the style is the square, heavily padded shoulders. These are a bit narrower, but proportionately, they have the same effect as on the men’s coat. This one is heavily darted to nip the waist in to give it a more feminine form, but it looks more like this was a pattern adapted from the men’s than an entirely new one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281070735374

This vintage women’s overcoat was made in the later part of the 1940s. It has wide, heavily padded shoulder and a luxurious mouton collar. It is double breasted, belted and has turnback cuffs.

Chest: 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve: 24-1/2″

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Hooded Woolrich jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271159624677

This vintage Woolrich coat has really great detailing. It has a brass Talon zipper front, with a buttoned wind flap. It is fully belted, with a chunky metal belt buckle. The handwarmer pockets close with brass talon zippers, and have leather reinforcements at the ends. The pocket trim forms the belt loops in the tradition of norfolk jackets. The front patch pockets are of the saddlebag variety, allowing them to expand when used. The coat has a hood, and a full sherpa lining, with quilted nylon in the sleeves. It is tagged a size 46, but with the 46″ chest measurement, fits like a size 42.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to Cuff: 25″

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Hudson’s Bay Blanket coats

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Made from Hudson’s Bay point blankets, these striped coats are iconically Canadian. The blanket design was introduced in the late 1700s by the HBC, and the material was soon adapted into coats by fur traders. Point blanket coats remained popular in Canada, first as utilitarian garments, later as fashion. The true Hudson’s Bay blankets were made in England. Some were tailored for and sold by the Bay, others, while they bear the fabric tag showing they were made from Hudson’s Bay blankets, were made into coats by and were retailed by third party companies, as is the case with the red Maine Guide coat pictured below.

Right from the start, there were competitor companies with their own striped trade blankets, like Early’s Witney Point, Horn Brothers, Trapper Point, or Ayers. The list went on, each with their own variation on the basic striped scheme. Many of these also made their way into the production of coats and jackets. The classic 20th century point blanket coat is a double breasted, belted mackinaw style, though the fabric has been tailored into everything from a “perfecto” style motorcycle jacket to a pullover hoodie.

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Recreation of HBC trading post, featuring point blanket capotes at left.
Hudson’s Bay Company Gallery, Manitoba Museum, Winnipeg

Examples from my collection
Top Row:
1950s Hudson’s Bay: The classic cut and colors. Interesting in that the orientation of the stripes is reversed from the usual
1960s Hudson’s Bay: Men’s shirt style. Also commonly seen in a women’s version.

Second Row:
c.1950s/1960s Mac Mor: Company founded in 1951, based out of North York, Ontario.
c. 1960s Gleneaton. Made of Ayers blanket. Milium insulated

Third Row:
1930s Hudson’s Bay. Very old one, with buttoned belt. Had buttons under collar for a hood
1940s Hudson’s Bay/ Maine Guide. Tailored by Maine Guide from HBC blanket

Fourth Row:
1960s Lakeland: Designed by Jeffrey Banks. 1949 union label. Same style blanket as the Buckskein, but reversed orientation
1950s Buck skein: Duffle coat style. “Thermalized” lining

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The bold patterns and bright colors of these blanket coats put them squarely into the “love it or hate it” category of vintage menswear, and outside of their native Canadian habitat can seem a bit out of context. While they can seem a bit flashy by modern menswear standards, these coats came from a rugged outdoor tradition.
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Photo from LIFE magazine photo archive

Men’s striped blanket coats are still available from a variety of makers, but they seem to have shied away from the traditional vibrant colors, opting instead for more subdued earth tones and shades of gray. While the Hudson’s Bay Company still retails their blankets (they now sell between $370 and $580), in an odd twist, their former competitors in the camp blanket market are now working with them. The material used in their current production blanket coats is made by Pendleton Woolen Mills. The blankets are distributed in the US by Woolrich Woolen Mills.

Current and recent offerings:

Rag and Bone $995

Freewheelers (Japan) BC Coat $990

Hudson Bay Company duffle $950

Monitaly Riders $949

Klaxon Howl

Hudson Bay Company $850

Burn Out (Japan) $540

Loyal $502

Fidelity $475

Houston (Japan) $267

Ralph Lauren duffle $265

Ralph Lauren

River Junction $260

Gap x GQ Ian Velardi $178

Topman $164

Whether vintage or modern, find your inner Canuck and give a blanket coat a chance.

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WWII enlisted short army overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271144813033

This vintage overcoat was WWII issue. It appears to have originally been a long overcoat, cut down into a short one. There are extensive repairs, presumably from the fabric of the cut-away tail.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″

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reproduction WWII Jeep Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281056370893

This jacket is a reproduction of a WWII issue shawl collar canvas mackinaw. It has a cotton shell, with a blanket wool collar and lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 29″ (doubled = 58″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 28″

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Single Breasted Alpagora Overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281056376976

This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s through mid 1940s timeframe by “Alpagora”. This alpaca/ wool overcoat blend was advertised heavily at that time, noted for its warmth. This coat is single breasted, with a fly front. It has no rear vent. Due to the position of the stitching on the coat, it is impossible to tell whether the coat bears a 1936 or a 1939 union tag.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″

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Philcraft alpaca lined mouton collared gabardine overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281056381932

This vintage bold look overcoat was made in the 1940s. It has a blue gabardine shell and a button on belt. The coat has a shearling collar and an alpaca lining. The wide shoulders are heavily padded. It was sold by St. Clair Page of Marshfield, WI. Cravenette processed.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″

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