Brooks Brothers Chesterfield Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627538100
This vintage Chesterfield overcoat was made in the 1940s for Brooks Brothers. It is made of high quality wool, with a fly front, peak lapels and a velvet collar. It is fully lined, with two inside pockets. According to the hanger chain, it was originally owned by a Jacques Sammes.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 42″

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Early’s Witney Point blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627237074
This vintage coat was made in the late 1940s. The makers label, which appears to have been originally located above the Milium label, is unfortunately missing. The coat is made of English made Early’s Witney Point blanket material, heavier and thicker than those of the Hudson’s Bay Company in this period. The coat is the classic point blanket mackinaw pattern and cut, in red with black stripes. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmers and cargo pockets. The coat is fully lined with Milium insulation.

Tagged Size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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c. 1935 Congress Sportswear half-zip, half button point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271624812561
This vintage coat was made c.1935 by Congress Sportswear and would likely have been sold under the “Maine Guide” label. This is a highly unusual and short lived style produced by Congress, with a half-zip, half-button front. The bottom half zipped up with a Talon grommet zipper, and the top with a 3×6 double breasted closure, which can be buttoned closed, buttoned like coat lapels, or open like 19th century military uniforms. The coat has a zip hood, which can be folded up and snapped (with early United Carr snaps) to form a collar. The coat is unlined, as is typical of these early mackinaw coats, and has taped seams.
The coat is readily identifiable as a Congress Sportswear product by several details. Congress was one of the only manufacturers to produce this half-and-half style, but details, like the un-hemmed bottom edge, and the contrast pocket trim and cuff adjusters are unique to Maine Guide products. These coats were produced by Congress for several other house labels, namely Abercombie and Fitch.
The coat is made from Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket, with a 1930s label. This fabric was, at the time, one of the most expensive wool fabrics available for high-end outdoors garments. The zipper is identifiable as being manufactured in the mid 1930s by its bell shape, the deco rays found both on the slider and the pull and by the oval shaped attachment piece between the slider and pull, which had been replaced by the later 1930s by a square sided bersion. The grommets of the grommet zipper, as well as the primitive stop-box, are still in place, although the current zipper, slightly shorter than the original, can be identified as a later production model Talon by its rounded edged pull and stop-box design.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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1960s Dunlap open road hat

This vintage hat was made in the early 1960s by Dunlap, and was sold in uptown Butte, Montana by Jim Spier. The hat follows the traditional dressy western form, most famously sold by Stetson under the Open Road name, but made by many manufacturers before and since that name was coined. The style is defined by its narrowly bound, flanged brim and straight crown, usually with a cattleman’s crease. This one has a wind string. This hat has a black leather sweatband, stamped with the Dunlap logo, “Hand Felted by Master Craftsmen” and “Kashmir Finish”, stampings which they shared with the Champ brand-name.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 2-1/8″
Ribbon Width: 3/8″
Crown Height: 5-3/8″

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Royal Scot men’s fedora

This vintage fedora was made in the 1940s by Royal Scot and was sold by Jim Spier in Butte, Montana. The hat has a striped grosgrain ribbon, a bound brim and a teardrop crease. The brown leather sweatband is unreeded, and the hat has a fancy pleated lining.
Size: 6-7/8
Brim Width 2-7/8″
Ribbon Width: 1-18″
Crown Height: 5-5/8″

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1930s Utica Duxbak hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281450518796
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1930s by the Utica Duxbak Corporation of Utica, New York. It is made of the high quality canvas Duxbak products of this era are famed for. It has 32 shotgun shell loops and a five button front, with the original Duxbak branded buttons. The buckle is an EM Southwick design, patented in 1906.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (back): 16″
Length (front): 20″

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Early 1940s Sears topline leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281450526551
This jacket was made in the early to mid 1940s and was sold by Sears under their Topline label, which they used for leather jackets primarily during the years of WWII. The jacket is made of capeskin leather, smooth side out for the collar and lapels and rough side out for the body and sleeves. The jacket is cut like a sportcoat. It is unvented and has a sporty flapped breast pocket. The jacket is fully lined, and has the Sears Topline Sportswear label inside. Inside the pocket is a 1939 union label and the original size tag.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

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1940s Maine Guide by Congress Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617873047
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background).

The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. There were two major waves of Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw popularity, one in the mid 1930s and one immediately after WWII. The ones from the 1940s period to which this one belongs were generally beltless and single breasted, whereas this fits the traditional mackinaw mold of the 1920s and 1930s, but with a bit more flair. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets than those found on coats dating from the 1950s-present, after manufacturing was switched from England to Canada. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.

This coat is double breasted and belted, and has stylish peak lapels and a rounded collar which I have only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat was originally unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns. At some point a lining was added to the jacket, but not finished on the bottom edge. When you lift this later lining, you can see the original tags from the Hudson’s Bay Company and from Maine Guide, as well as the taped seams that indicate its original unlined construction. The coat was originally sold by Hudson’s Sport Store of Detroit.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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Here’s a shot of a green version of this same maker and model which I sold earlier in the year, showing what the lining/construction is like without the later lining overlay  photo green.jpg

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Eddie Bauer Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617906330
This jacket was sold by Eddie Bauer. It is made from Indian Blanket style wool fabric- from the texture and particular pattern, I would guess made by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. The jacket has a leather collar and corozo buttons. It is fully lined. Despite being labeled a size Medium, with a 54″ chest, this would best fit someone who wears a size 48 jacket.

Tagged size: Medium
Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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