M1926 shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

This vintage jacket is a prewar version of a US army shawl collar mackinaw. The most notable difference from the wartime version is that this is unlined. There are twin breast pockets inside, as well as taped seams. The coat has large patch pockets, with buttoned flaps. The sleeves have buttoned adjuster belts. The jacket has a slimmer, slightly longer cut than the wartime version. This one is pressed to roll to the second button, accentuating that length. It was made by the Lilley Ames company of Columbus, Ohio, and issued to a “Jason Bower”. The name “O. Spencer” is visible directly above, written faintly in pencil. This would best fit someone in the size 36 to 38 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 36″

Early 1930s Woolrich Hunting Breeches

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204924506
This pair of vintage hunting breeches was made in the early to mid 1930s by Woolrich. These pants feature the earliest Woolrich tag variant I’ve been able to find, used in the early 1930s, and still bearing the John Rich and Bros. name. While most companies did not put zippers into pants until a big advertising push by Talon in the late 1930s, these were made with a zipper fly and zip-up legs. All three zippers are heavy fan-shaped versions with a pin lock. In addition to the zippers, the ends of the breeches lace up. The pants have the early style metal suspender buttons with the “All Wool” text cast in. Later, Woolrich would switch over to plain suspender buttons. Someone has enlarged the waist of these, using heavy duck canvas, of the type used on tents and other hunting garments. They have also added a knit section from the waistband by the left pocket down to the center seam, the purpose of which I have been unable to determine. The breeches have a reinforced seat and knees and buttoned, flapped rear pockets.

Waist: 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Inseam: 28-1/2″
Outseam: 40″
Rise: 11-1/2″

1910s Montgomery Ward cowboy hat

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271318501864
This vintage western hat was made in the 1910s or 1920s, and was sold by Montgomery Ward. It is made of black fur felt, with a pencil curled brim, and a narrow ribbon with a western style bow. It has a tall crown, creased with a center dent and front pinches, though the felt is such that it can easily be re-creased as you so choose. The hat is unlined and has a brown leather sweatband, embossed with an early Montgomery Ward crest. The reorder tag, indicating the hat is a size 7, is of a generic style and doesn’t offer many clues as to who made the hat for Ward’s.

Size: 7
Brim Width: 3″
Ribbon Width: 3/8″
Crown Height:5-5/8″

Mid 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204865336
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1940s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a skinny sheep, was used in the later days of WWII through until about 1947. After 1947, the logo was changed with a new design of sheep, and to include the (R) symbol. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down to the mid 1940s. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. This coat has a rarely seen style of snap for this type of coat, a plain design made by United Carr, used during the war years, transitional between the pre-war “meander” style and the post-war ones branded with the Woolrich name.

The coat has a large, rounded collar with a buttoned throat latch. It has covered buttons save for the top. All the pockets have snaps. The vertical pockets on the front pass through to the internal game pouch, which can also be accessed from the rear. The coat has a full mustard colored lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 29″

Mid 1930s Woolrich Mackinaw

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204853617
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1930s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a green border and the text “All Wool” was used briefly, from about 1935-1937. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. The coat has the early style of United Carr snaps with a meander pattern on them. During WWII, Woolrich switched briefly to plain-topped ones, then to ones branded with their company name for the 1940s and 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 29″

1920s Duxbak mackinaw coat

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204213687
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the late 1920s or early 1930s by the Utica DuxBak corporation of Utica, New York. DuxBak was well known for its high quality garments for outdoorsmen. They were perhaps better known for their canvas coats, vests and pants, but their wool makinaws were of equally high quality. This is an early version, with a caped front, game pocket, and flapped patch pockets. The coat has a shirt style collar with a particularly tall collar stand. The collar is lined in cotton drill, and the underside of the collar is faced with the same material. The snaps are of a ring type. Handwarmer pockets are partially covered by the front cape, and are stitched in a reverse “D-pocket” style. The flaps on the game pocket have a narrow, sharply scalloped flap. The label is of a rare style, with a black background and red and green text.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 28″

Ideal zip front plaid workshirt

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204221541
This vintage shirt was made in the 1940s by Ideal. It has a bell-shaped Talon zipper with an oval hole. It has a long pointed collar, with an extended “chinstrap” collar stand. There are two flapped breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

1950s Woolrich plaid shirt

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271317611899
This vintage plaid shirt was made in the 1950s by the Woolrich Woolen mills of Woolrich, Pennsylvania. It was sold by the Goodwear Company of 177 Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn, NY. The shirt is made of wool plaid, and has shrunk-down versions of the buttons found on the heavy hunting coats. Pockets have pointed flaps. The collar is lined in black twill.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 31″

Button Front short Woolrich Jacket

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204240511
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1940s by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich PA. It is a waist length, button-front model, with side belt adjusters and a single breast pocket. The jacket has reverse “D-pockets”, and is unlined. This jacket was also made in a zipper version- see here: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/11/10/zipper-front-woolrich-jacket/

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 25″

Zipper Front Woolrich Jacket

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204250052
This vintage jacket was made in the years immediately following WWII. It is the zipper fronted version of Woolrich’s cossack style. In another listing, I have a slightly earlier button front version of the same style. The zipper is of a transitional style used immediately after WWII, with a Talon branded stopbox and a square sided slider. The jacket has a single patch breast pocket with a cateye button, and handwarmer pockets. The jacket is tagged a size 36, but measures more like a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 24-1/2″

<imgsrc=”http: i450.photobucket.com=”” albums=”” qq223=”” dinerman3=”” 2013%20november%20ebay=”” img_0208.jpg”=”” border=”0″ alt=” photo IMG_0208.jpg”>

	Spencer Stewart on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Richard on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Spencer Stewart on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	DonJon on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	gregory w kurpita on Wabash Stripe Railroad chore…

Vintage-Haberdashers Blog

Quality vintage menswear

Monthly Archives: November 2013

M1926 shawl collar mackinaw

Early 1930s Woolrich Hunting Breeches

1910s Montgomery Ward cowboy hat

Mid 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw

Mid 1930s Woolrich Mackinaw

1920s Duxbak mackinaw coat

Ideal zip front plaid workshirt

1950s Woolrich plaid shirt

Button Front short Woolrich Jacket

Zipper Front Woolrich Jacket