Hettrick American Field point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272103123979

This vintage coat was made in the late 1940s-1950s by the Hettrick Mfg. Co of Toledo, Ohio under their “American Field” label.  The coat has some striking similarities to the blanket mackinaws made in this era by Congress Sportswear / Maine Guide, including the raw bottom edge and the rounded collar with peak lapels.  The coat is belted, with buttoned adjusters on the sleeves. More in keeping with the mackinaws of the 1930s, this one is made with unlined construction, save for the rayon lined sleeves.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

The Hettrick Mfg. Co. was founded in 1893 (or 1891, depending on the source) in Toledo, Ohio as a manufacturer of canvas goods, largely awnings and wagon covers. In 1921, they launched the “American Field” line of hunting garments. A bit of a late comer to the hunting game, they advertised their coats as designed by an “old timer”. Their factory was located at 1401 Summit Street, Toledo, Ohio. Unlike most of the other manufacturers of hunting clothes, Hettrick maintained their other interests after entering the hunting market, producing everything from canvas lawn chairs to tricycles. Hettrick was purchased by the F&M Real Estate Company of Lowell, MA and in 1962, Hettrick closed its Ohio factories and moved to Statesville, NC to take advantage of the lower cost of manufacturing in the south. They moved production into the factory of the Empire Manufacturing Corp, who continued producing their own line from the same plant, with a secondary factory in Pink Hill, NC. It is unclear whether they were purchased by Empire, sources are conflicting. Empire ran a strongly anti-union shop, threatening employees in 1968 who were attempting to unionize. They were sued by employees, the threats were found to be unlawful and the case was used as an example in a Congressional subcommittee on labor. Shortly thereafter, in 1969, American Field was acquired by the Olin Corporation, manufacturer of Winchester rifles. In 1970, the Hettrick divistion acquired the J. W. Johnson Co of Bellwood, Ill and Dickey Oakwood Corp of Oakwood, Ohio. In 1971, Hettrick merged with Comfy Seattle Co and became Trailblazer by Winchester, “managing transactions for Comfy, the Turner Co., Olin Skiis, J.W. Johnson, Dickey Oakwood”, as well as factories in Pink Hill, Statesville and one in Corcoran, California built in 1970. While Hettrick as a company was absorbed, the Hettrick brand continued to be produced, with production shifted to the Pink Hill plant, reflected on labels. By the 1980s, the operation had been sold again, to WeatherShield Sports Equipment, Inc. (founded 1951) at Petoskey Rd. At Mercer Blvd., Charlevoix, MI. They lasted at least into the 1990s.

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1930s Woolrich 503 mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272103134424

This vintage coat was made in the mid-1930s by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, Pennsylvania.  It features the green bordered Woolrich tag used c.1934-c.1936, the United Carr waver pattern with dots snaps used up through the mid ’30s (replaced by a simplified version in the late 1930s and by a plain top snap by the early 1940s), early style buttons and the asymmetrical breast pockets which were replaced post-war with symmetrical ones.  The coat has a mustard colored lining and storm cuffs. The wool used on these earlier production coats is darker in color and heavier in weight than later coats.

Chest (pit to pit):  23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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1930s Stetson Boss of the Plains

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401054856848

This is a rare John B. Stetson Boss of the Plains, made in their No. 1 quality fur felt.  Known as the “hat that won the west”, this was a real working cowboy’s style, with a flat, raw edge brim and a short, straight sided crown. This is a relatively late production example of the model, which can be dated between 1933 and 1935 by the NRA Code tag. The brim measures 3-1/16″ and the crown measures 4-3/8″.

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1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cowboy hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272104246504

This vintage cowboy hat was made in the 1920s by the John B. Stetson Company of Philadelphia, PA from Clear Nutria felt. Interestingly for such a huge western style, it was sold by John S. Harman & Son, Hatters, 87 New Bond Street, London.  The felt is amazingly pliable, with a high crown, a curled brim edge and a thin ribbon.  The lining is green, and the sweatband is textured brown leather, both bear a very detailed Stetson stamp. The lot no on the back of the sweatband, 5157, helps to date the hat.  The brim measures 4-1/4″, the crown measures 6-1/4″.

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1920s Borsalino Fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272104264055

Here’s another one that’s been in my collection for a long time.  This Borsalino was made in the 1920s, with a classic straight sided crown, nearly flat brim and wide ribbon with a twisted knot bow.  Made for the export market, this one has an unreeded sweatband with a laced, crimped top edge and was sold by A.L. Rafuso of Bridgewater, Nova Scotia, Canada.  It is a 7-1/4 with a 2-1/2″ brim and 5-1/2″ crown.

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1920s Berg Fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401054868951

This vintage hat was made in the late 1920s-early 1930s by Berg. The hat is made for lightly heathered charcoal gray fur felt. It is from the short-lived fashion for a twisted ribbon on the right side of the hat, opposite the bow.  The bow has a feathered trailing edge, fashionable for the time, and the hat has a high, tapered crown- considered very sporting at the time. It has an underwelt brim, and an unreeded wide black leather sweatband with an embossed top edge. The hat is a 7-1/4, and has a 2-3/16″ brim and a 5-5/8″ crown.

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Knox 20 derby hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272104293986

This vintage boater was made in the early 1920s by Knox, and originally sold for $20, making it quite an expensive hat in its time.  It has a light russet brown leather sweatband and a pleated lining.  It is a 7-1/4, with a 5-1/8″ crown and a brim which measures 2″ on the front and back, 1-3/4″ at the curl of the side.

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1930s Lee Water Bloc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272104308612

This vintage fedora was made in the 1930s by Lee.  It has the early Lee Water Block logo featuring a sailing ship.  The hat is a sporty style from the period, with a sharply curled flange to the rear of the brim and a relatively tapered crown. It has an overwelt brim.  The hat is a 7-1/4, with a 2-5/16″ brim and a 5-1/2″ crown.

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Beaver Fifty Open Road

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401054891710

This vintage fedora was custom made in the 1960s from pure beaver felt, and originally sold for fifty dollars, making it extremely expensive at the time.  I have owned many 7X clear beaver Stetsons from this era and the dress weight beaver felt has a very similar feel.  It is a 7-1/4 and has a 2-3/8″ brim and a 5-1/4″ crown.

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