Mid 1940s Albert Richard leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352480738
This vintage leather jacket was made by Albert Richard in the mid 1940s. It is made of “Chevro-Kid” goatskin. This trade name was typical of Albert Richards’s naming schemes during WWII and shortly after, playing of military terminology. The company could back this up- they produced flight jackets for the army and navy during the war. This jacket is made of the same goatskin used for these Navy flight jacket contracts. The jacket is a hip length style, with flapped saddlebag patch pockets , a straight yoke on the front, and a plain back. It was originally belted, but as with many jackets of this style, the belt is long since missing. The zipper is a Talon, with a mid 1940s stopbox and a slightly earlier style slider (these combinations were common at this period). The zipper is attached in the “surcoat” style, , where the end of the zip is attached to a triangle of leather which is free from the front of the jacket.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 29-1/2″

A bit about Albert Richard, from an article I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”.
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability.
During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers. Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war.
President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores.
Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south. Production was low, and this new plant closed almost as soon as it opened.

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1930s Red Head Brand hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281208719396
This vintage canvas hunting coat was made in the mid 1930s by Red Head brand, a premier maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s sportswear at the time. This one has a heavy canvas shell, with a corduroy collar and corduroy lined cuffs. The shoulders are reinforced. With a setup similar to an early 1920s Filson coat, https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/19/1910s-1920s-filson-canvas-jacket/, This coat has a double breast pocket (a small pocket overtop a larger one, which share the same flap). The hip pockets are double round patch pockets which share the same extra large flap. These pockets are leather reinforced. There is an internal game pocket, accessible from the back, or from the inside. The game pocket opens with an early bell-shaped Talon zipper, which helps date the coat. Buttons are Red Head branded. The coat was originally sold in Detroit by the Tool Shop Company.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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Ideal zip front plaid workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204221541
This vintage shirt was made in the 1940s by Ideal. It has a bell-shaped Talon zipper with an oval hole. It has a long pointed collar, with an extended “chinstrap” collar stand. There are two flapped breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

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Zipper Front Woolrich Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204250052
This vintage jacket was made in the years immediately following WWII. It is the zipper fronted version of Woolrich’s cossack style. In another listing, I have a slightly earlier button front version of the same style. The zipper is of a transitional style used immediately after WWII, with a Talon branded stopbox and a square sided slider. The jacket has a single patch breast pocket with a cateye button, and handwarmer pockets. The jacket is tagged a size 36, but measures more like a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 24-1/2″

1930s cossack ski jacket

SOLD
This vintage jacket was made in the mid to late 1930s. The jacket has a waist length cut, a throat latch tab collar (chinstrap), two flapped patch pockets, a belted back, and button adjuster tabs on the sleeves. The pockets and collar are trimmed with contrast green wool, which, in combination with the style of the back, makes me think this was a ski jacket. The basic style, without the contrast trim, was used throughout the 1930s as a workwear jacket style, made both in wool, as found on this example, and in leather. Regardless of the material, the style was known as a cossack jacket. This jacket has a triple marked 1930s Talon zipper with a deco-sunburst stop box. This style zipper was introduced c.1936 as the “style 101” and was sold alongside the grommet zipper “the style 102”, until it replaced it in the lineup. In the earlier years of manufacture, this style was advertised as being available in “Rainbow Colors”, but colored examples are rare. Here we have one in green, with a green tape and green hardware. The throat latch detail on this jacket was common in the early-mid 1930s, gradually losing favor as the decade wore on.

Tagged size: 46
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 23-1/2″

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1930s Woolrich hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271277514189

This is a rare early variant of the classic Woolrich hunting coat. Most Woolrich coats you see are from the 1950s or 1960s. Coats of that era have snaps withe the “Woolrich” name on them. They have labels with a slimmed down sheep and a (R) registered trademark symbol in the corner. This one dates from the late 1930s, and has a number of details which differentiate it from the later, more common versions. The pocket snaps on this one are of the style used in the 1930s and before, with a meander pattern encircled by dots. The label is of the style used from the mid-late 1930s, with a blocky sheep, green text and a green border. Woolrich was an early adopter of zippers on their hunting garments. This one has twin double-marked Talon zippers on the game pocket. This is the style used in the late ’30s- early 1940s, with a beveled edge puller with a small hole, the Talon name on the component which attaches the slider to the puller, and the full “Made in U.S.A.” text on the back of the slider. By the 1940s, Woolrich had abandoned the use of zippers on their game pockets, in favor of a simpler and more easily repaired (though less secure) single button. With purely functional workwear and hunting items such as this, they were passed down for generations and worn hard, as there was no regard for changing styles, and a deer is unlikely to call the fashion police. The coat has a fair bit of mothing to the shell, but is in better shape than most I’ve seen from this era. Although there is some, there is also much less wear and staining than usually seen to the liner, the neck and the cuffs, the areas generally most heavily hit.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 30″

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1930s American Field hunting jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281168068268
This vintage coat was made in the late 1930s by the Hettrick Mfg. Co. of Toldeo, Ohio. This was their signature model, the “Gun Coat”, with “free swing” shoulders, a corduroy collar and cuffs, roughout horsehide shoulder reinforcement, a gun pad on the right shoulder, large pockets, and an interior game pocket. The water-resistant game pocket does up with bell shaped Talon zippers. At the end of the listing are a couple of ads for this model of coat, dating from 1936 and from 1940.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-3/4″
Length: 28″

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Allied Clothiers mustard colored jacket

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2012/05/23/1950s-allied-clothiers-cotton-ricky-jacket/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142179139
This vintage sportswear jacket was made in the early to mid 1950s by Allied Clothiers. It is made of lightweight mustard colored cotton, with side adjuster belts, action pleated shoulders and handwarmer pockets. The front does up with a rare Talon zipper variant, in aluminum with a 1953 patented E-Z Zip-Tab.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length: 26″

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Duofold half-zip shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271203689833
This vintage shirt was made by Duofold, of Mohawk, NY, a company noted for their knitwear. This is an early version of their “Sportsman’s Doublet”. It is made from Duofold’s two-layer fabric, which features an outer layer of 100% wool for warmth, and an inner layer of 100% cotton for comfort. There is an early talon zipper, and green buttons.

Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 20″
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″
Collar: 16-1/2″

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Woolrich Hunting Mackinaw Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281052513450

There were a lot of companies producing these hunting jackets, but for me, Woolrich is the iconic one.  That giant rounded collar, the button front.  Simple and rugged.  One served me well in the pouring rain of Alaska and against the Canadian maritime wind.  It’s hard to find one in mint condition.  These were not fashion, they were utilitarian pieces, used for decades, until there was nothing left.  Tears and repairs are the norm.  Woodsmoke and rain a way of life.  This one is the short version, less commonly seen than the four pocket version.

This vintage hunting mackinaw was made by the Woolrich Woolen Mills.  It is their short, zip up pattern, which features two breast pockets, two slash handwarmer pockets, and a large rear game pouch.  This one bears patches from Pennsylvania hunting groups.  Chest (pit to pit): 21″Shoulder to Shoulder: 17-1/2″Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 23″    Photobucket

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