Monarch horsehide barnstormer leather jacket

Posted on May 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271493775559
This vintage jacket was made by Monarch Mfg. of Milwaukee WI in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It is a belted, double breasted style. This has since come to be known among collectors as a barnstormer style, named after the aviators of the 1920s who wore similar styles. The jacket is made of russet horsehide, with a 3×6 double breasted front. There are handwarmer pockets (known originally as “muff” pockets), as well as flapped cargo pockets. These have deeply scalloped pocket flaps. The jacket is lined with blanket wool in the body, with quilted shoulders and sleeves. The U shaped seam between the two lining materials is a detail I have only seen on other Monarch jackets. The label is of a style used in the 1930s through about the end of WWII. The leather has some really incredible grain, highlighted by decades of usage. The treatment of the seams is unusual. Whereas most jackets, leather or otherwise, will have a seam at the edge of the jacket, or on the edge of the lapels, this one minimizes them by folding the leather around to form the front and back panel.

The Monarch Manufacturing Company was founded in 1892 by Paul Asch. In 1917, they relocated to a new factory, located at 246 East Chicago St., Milwaukee, WI. They built at least four more factories in Milwaukee, employing over a thousand workers by 1922. Throughout the life of the company, they specialized in leather, sheepskin and fabric outerwear for men and boys. They produced A-2 contracts during WWII.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 30″

1930s Red Head Brand half-moon hunting vest

Posted on May 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271492450158
This vest was made in the 1930s by Red Head Brand, a high end maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s garments. This style has come to be known as a half-moon hunting vest, after the shape of its pass through pockets into the game pouch. Period advertisements generally referred to this style as a sleeveless jacket rather than as a vest. This one has pleated, flapped patch pockets on the front, as well as two patch pockets on the lining. There is a roomy breast pocket, just the right size for a pack of cigarettes, The half-moons pass through to the roomy internal game pocket, which closes with a button.

The vest still has the original Red Head tag, shaped, appropriately, like a duck. The tag reads – “Red Head Fits The Sport. The Red Head duck signifies that this article is backed by years of experience in the equipping of sportsmen. It is your guarantee that nothing has been spared to assure you of satisfaction in the field – that the Red Head standard of quality, workmanship, and above all, the integrity of the Red Head Brand, known by sportsmen for over forty years, is the inimitable ingredient of the product. Play safe and look for this symbol when purchasing outdoor equipment – Red Head Brand Co. – Chicago”

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 27″

1910s “The Gem” Special hunting vest

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337853385
This vintage hunting vest was made by the Gem Shirt Company of Dayton, Ohio in the 1910s. The Gem Shirt Co. was founded c.1888, and diversified into canvas hunting clothes in the early part of the 20th century, innovating the usage of lined waterproof game bags. They were a high end maker at the time, making their products from an excellent grade of cotton canvas duck. They ceased production by the 1920s.
The vest has 37 closed bottomed reinforced corduroy shotgun shell pockets on the front of the vest. The corduroy material is somewhat unusual, a nice early detail. The back is belted, but instead of the usual vest style central belt and buckle arrangement, this one has double side adjuster belts. It has Southwick buckles, a type patented in 1906, also used on some DuxBak vests of the period. It has an early black and yellow label, which identifies this model as the “Special”, made for “Outers and Hunters”. The grouse on the label is carried through onto the figural buttons. They are removable ring-back, of the type common on workwear of the period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (front): 24″
Length (rear): 19″

For another vest made by “The Gem”, see here. A comparison of the two is below.

Patent no 819,180, as found on the back of the buckle. Patented May 1, 1906

The logo for “The Gem” was trademarked in 1911, although it had been in use since 1888. The label on this vest reads “Registered”, dating it after 1911.

Ad for “The Gem” from 1912

The Gem Hunting Coat, 1917

1918. Guiterman Bros Town and Country vest, Gem Hunting Coat and a Springfield Rifle

1923. Gem Hunting Vests and coats. This is the last I can find on the company.

1950s Bullseye Bill fishing jacket

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337372551
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold under the “Bullseye Bill” label. I have had several of these jackets, dating from the 1930s-1950s, and other than the hardware and labels, the overall design barely changed. This one has a “Wiz” zipper front, where as earlier models generally had button fronts. There are pockets on both of the arms, wraparound pockets, a large rear game pocket, a breast pocket, fly rod loop and a sheepskin patch for flies. There is a D-ring on the back of the jacket to attach further gear to, and two internal patch pockets Most people who wear these as streetwear remove the fly pad. This one is made of light, summer weight canvas.

In case if you don’t know wher to buy water shoes for this part.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

Similar in cut to this “Snag Pruf” jacket

1940s Maxproof waxed canvas coat

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271490626752
This vintage coat was made in the United Kingdom by Maxproof. It is made of heavy, waterproof waxed canvas. While it is single breasted, it has a double row of buttons, and double set of flaps to keep all water and wind out when riding your motorcycle in the rain. It has a side collar and throat latch / chinstrap which close the neck up equally as securely. The wrists can be cinched down with buttoned belts, and the length is long enough to keep you dry. There are three eyelets at each underarm for ventilation, and a rear vent.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

1920s high-neck buckle-back hunting vest

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271491035755
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. It is made from canvas, with thirty four closed bottomed shotgun shell loops. It has a high necked closure to keep out the elements, similar to the Browns Beach vests of the period, which were also designed for hunting. The vest has a buckle back. An ink-stamped canvas tag identifies this as a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Length: 19-1/2″

HSM belt-back tweed suit

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336529153
This vintage suit was made in the late 1960s-early 1970s by Hart Schaffner & Marx during a brief revival of 1930s belt-back styles. While many from this period have scalloped pocket flaps and other 1970s detailing, this one plays it very close to the originals. It is made of brown wool tweed with a rust colored overcheck. It has patch pockets, and a belted, pleated back. The jacket is half-lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Inseam: 29-1/4″, 2″ to let out
Outseam: 41″
Thigh: 12″
Knee: 9-3/4″
Cuff: 10″

1950s H Bar C Ranchwear western jacket

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489341046
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s by H Bar C Ranchwear. It it is made of striped wool and has peaked lapels, flapped patch pockets, fancy yokes front and back and a bi-swing action back. It is fully lined in octagon/paisley fabric. The union tag is the early 1949 variant, prior to the inclusion of the (R) symbol, which dates its manufacture between 1949 and 1962. The styling suggests a date of manufacture in the mid 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31-1/2″

1950s Lasso Western Wear western jacket

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489217364
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s under the Lasso Western Wear label. It is single breasted, with peak lapels, scalloped, buttoned pocket flaps, and a bi-swing action back. It is made of brown on brown blanket material, similar to that produced by the Hudson’s Bay company. This one is lighter weight than that fabric, but has the same coloration and napped texture. According to the tag, the model name is the Mr. Mak. The details, particularly the shape and width of the lapels, identify this as a 1950s example. Looking through Lasso Western Wear catalogs of the period, by the early 1960s, while the overall cut was similar, the lapels had narrowed greatly, and the peak had been largely overtaken by the notch in popularity.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

1950s Pioneer Wear western jacket

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336454443
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s by Pioneer wear. It is made from a gray on gray shadow plaid. It has peak lapels, deep scalloped yokes front and rear, and a bi-swing action back. Buttons are all gray leather “knot” type.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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Tag Archives: style

Monarch horsehide barnstormer leather jacket

1930s Red Head Brand half-moon hunting vest

1910s “The Gem” Special hunting vest

1950s Bullseye Bill fishing jacket

1940s Maxproof waxed canvas coat

1920s high-neck buckle-back hunting vest

HSM belt-back tweed suit

1950s H Bar C Ranchwear western jacket

1950s Lasso Western Wear western jacket

1950s Pioneer Wear western jacket