1946 Albert Richard blanket coat

Posted on November 17, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281208760052
This vintage wool jacket was made c. 1946 by Albert Richard. It is interlined with “Spun Sun” fiberglass insulation, pioneered by Albert Richard immediately after WWII. This model coat matches the button front surcoats sold immediately after WWII. This is the early style “Spun Sun” fabric, before the introduction of the (R) symbol in 1947. Albert Richard was sold and relocated in 1952, closing shortly thereafter. This coat has a three button front, a broad collar and two flapped hip pockets. While earlier coats by Albert Richard were made of Hudson’s Bay Company blanket fabric, with the advent of the miracle “Spun Sun” insulation, they could use lighter weight wools from other woolen mills to achieve the same level of warmth. This one has a three stripe pattern, with a broader central stripe.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

Mid 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204865336
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1940s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a skinny sheep, was used in the later days of WWII through until about 1947. After 1947, the logo was changed with a new design of sheep, and to include the (R) symbol. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down to the mid 1940s. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. This coat has a rarely seen style of snap for this type of coat, a plain design made by United Carr, used during the war years, transitional between the pre-war “meander” style and the post-war ones branded with the Woolrich name.

The coat has a large, rounded collar with a buttoned throat latch. It has covered buttons save for the top. All the pockets have snaps. The vertical pockets on the front pass through to the internal game pouch, which can also be accessed from the rear. The coat has a full mustard colored lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 29″

Mid 1930s Woolrich Mackinaw

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204853617
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1930s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a green border and the text “All Wool” was used briefly, from about 1935-1937. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. The coat has the early style of United Carr snaps with a meander pattern on them. During WWII, Woolrich switched briefly to plain-topped ones, then to ones branded with their company name for the 1940s and 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 29″

J.O. Ballard Malone mackinaw

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281200082748
This vintage mackinaw was made by J.O. Ballard & Co. of Malone, New York. The company was founded in 1888 by Jay Olin Ballard, and traded alternately under the J.O Ballard name and the name, Malone Woolen Mills. The company began making wool outdoorsman’s breeches in 1891 and followed up with mackinaw coats like this one. They were famous for their Malone plaid- gray with red and green overchecks. Coats of this cut were advertised to hunters, hikers, mountain climbers, lumberjacks, workmen and all other stripes of outdoorsmen. The depression closed the company in 1933. It re-opened again in 1935 with the assistance of an Reconstruction Finance Corporation loan, a depression era loan program.
The coat has four flapped pockets and two slash pockets. The slash pockets, in the traditional position of handwarmer pockets, pass through directly to the game pocket. There is also access to the game pocket from flaps on the back of the coat. Unlike the similar Woolrich design, this one has buttons on the pockets instead of snaps and exposed buttoning on the front. The lining is mustard colored cotton. The sleeves have buttoned adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

1930s AlPeru overcoat

Posted on October 30, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281197994086
This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s by Roger Williams from Alperu fabric and was sold by The Fair, either at their Chicago or Oak Park location. In the 1930s, these Alperu fabric overcoats retailed for $40. In today’s money, that’s the equivalent of a $650 coat. Despite the “Warmth Without Weight” slogan, this is quite a heavyweight coat. It is single breasted, with notch lapels, flapped patch pockets and half-cuffed sleeves. The coat is fully lined and has a vertical interior breast pocket.

I love all these brand names from the 1930s and 1940s. Alperu. Alpacama, Alpagora, IncaPaca, Algora, BalPaca, etc.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″(doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 44″

Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195223460

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. While I have seen several of this particular model, none have had any tags. Originally, these coats were known as “sheeplined” coats, and were popular with railroad men, ranchers and other men who worked outdoors, as they were light for their warmth when compared to wool coats, and were particularly hard wearing. This one defies that name slightly by having an alpaca pile lining and collar. As is typical of the style, instead of buttonholes, this coat has loops, in this instance made from leather. Likewise, the pockets are reinforced with leather. There is a waterproof layer in between the outer canvas layer and the inner warm lining. In lieu of a tag, there is a military style size stamp at the bottom of the coat.

Chest (pit to pit): 34″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 33″

1930s American Field hunting jacket

Posted on September 16, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281168068268
This vintage coat was made in the late 1930s by the Hettrick Mfg. Co. of Toldeo, Ohio. This was their signature model, the “Gun Coat”, with “free swing” shoulders, a corduroy collar and cuffs, roughout horsehide shoulder reinforcement, a gun pad on the right shoulder, large pockets, and an interior game pocket. The water-resistant game pocket does up with bell shaped Talon zippers. At the end of the listing are a couple of ads for this model of coat, dating from 1936 and from 1940.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-3/4″
Length: 28″

New Jersey Frozen Foods custom leather jacket

Posted on September 16, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271277523946
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s. It has a classic casual cut, sportcoat length. The jacket has a scaloped yoke on the back, which, along with the horseshoe belt buckle give the jacket an under-the-radar western vibe. The jacket has a button-on belt. Many jackets of this length from the 1930s-1950s had button on belts like this, but lost them over the years, it’s uncommon to find one still paired with the belt. There are two breast pockets which fasten with Conmar chain zippers. The main zipper is also a Conmar. The jacket’s label reads “Custom Made Deerskin Sportswear, New Jersey Frozen Foods, Inc., Morristown, NJ”. Somewhat of an unusual firm to be making leather jackets, but similarity to other leather jacket maker’s patterns make me think that it was produced by a third party factory, probably one of the Wisconsin deerskin jacket factories and sold by NJFF. The jacket is fully lined, with a material change about half-way down.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-12″
Length: 32″

1920s DuxBak hunting vest

Posted on August 31, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281160337309
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. The DuxBak line was started in 1906 by Bird, Jones and Kenyon, and had a factory located at 1 Blandina St., Utica, NY. Prior to the 1920s, Duxbak used the slogan “Duxbak Sportsman’s Clothing” in their advertisements and on their tags. During the 1920s, they switched to ” Duxbak Rain Proof Sportsman’s Clothing”. By the 1930s, they had changed their label to include a graphic of a hunter, and to emphasize “Utica”.

This shell vest design changed very little from when it was introduced in the early 1900s until this one was produced. As it was a garment of pure function, it was not beholden to the whims of fashion. A good design was a good design, and they stuck with it. It has loops for 28 shotgun shells, a high buttoning neckline to protect the wearer from the elements, and a buckle back to adjust for a comfortable fit. The buckle used on the back bears the patent number “819180”, which shows that this buckle design dates from 1906. The vest has a six button front, and all the buttons bear the DuxBak name.

Tagged Size:
Chest (pit to pit): 18-3/4″ (doubled = 37.5″)
Length (neck to hem down back):18″

1960s Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket coat

Posted on July 28, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246948755
This vintage coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay company from their iconic point blanket material. It is in their “Olympic” pattern, a double breasted style, with handwarmer pockets and flapped patch pockets. In this particular example, the points of the four point blanket are on the inside of the coat on the wearer’s right. The coat is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 36″

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