Gray Blanket stripe coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262510170
This vintage jacket was made in the 1970s or 1980s. It closely follows the pattern of Hudson’s Bay point blanket jackets of the time, with its shirt style collar and buttoned patch pockets. However, I don’t believe the Hudson’s Bay Company ever produced their jackets in this period with a gray background. I have seen this pattern of fabric made by Woolrich and by Pendleton, so possibly it’s one of theirs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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Canadian army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371781839

This vintage mackinaw was made in 1952 for the Canadian army. Stylistically, it is almost identical to civilian Sheeplined mackinaws of the 1920s-1940s. It is, however, made of tougher stuff than most civilian (or US army) mackinaws of this style. The canvas shell is extremely heavy and rugged. The waist belt is much wider than is typical, and is has keeper loops to secure it to the belt loops so that it is not lost, as so often happens. The coat is fully lined in blue green pile, which is less fragile than the sheepskin linings in these can be this many years on. The sleeves are also lined in this material, and have extra long storm cuffs. The coat was made by the Scott Leather Goods Co. of Montreal, and is tagged a size 40.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-1/2″
Length: 36″

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Canadian D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271351711041
This vintage leather jacket was made in Canada. It’s hard to say whether this was made by Brimaco or by Shields/Score Sportswear, as their patterns were so similar, and this one is missing the labels. Both manufacturers jackets were made as copies of the 1940s “Cycle Champ” jacket sold by Harley Davidson. While Harley retired the model, going with more of a Perfecto style, these Canadian manufacturers continued production with very little changes. It has a large patch D-pocket, with a smaller patch cigarette pocket. The other side of the jacket has a flapped square patch pocket. The ends of the pocket openings are all reinforced with domed bar studwork for that early motorcycle jacket flash. The back design, with kidney panel is more typical for the Score/Shields jackets, while Brimaco/British Cycle Leathers/British Sportswear jackets generally had three panels in a V shape. But you do see both designs coming from both makers, so it’s doesn’t clear it up that much. This has the smooth nylon lining more commonly seen on the cafe racers made by these companies, while the more old-fashioned plaid linings were generally put into the D-Pocket models. The main zip is a Lightning, the pocket zip is a Canadian Talon of the same design (same company).

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Waist: 29″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 22″

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For reference, also see:

Score Sportswear blue leather cafe racer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307306053
This vintage leather jacket was made in Toronto by either Score Sporting Goods of by its successor, Shields Sportswear. Without the label, it’s hard to say which incarnation of Harry and Lorne Shields’s company made it. The jacket has the interesting collar of this maker- a short rounded stand collar with a single-snap chinstrap. Most makers made the snap tab as an extension of the collar stand, rather than a second piece. The separate chinstrap is more of a holdover from 1930s leather jacket design. Side adjuster belts are another early style holdover found on this design. The elbows are reinforced with a second layer of leather. There are zip sleeves to keep wind and dust out when riding. Zippers are mismatched, with Canadian made Acme and Lightning zips on the pockets and sleeves respectively. The front zipper is a replacement, with a YKK tape and a vintage Talon slider. The lining is long since missing. The blue leather of this jacket sets it apart in a sea of black and brown leather jackets, as if the distinctive and rugged design wasn’t enough.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23-1/2″

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Pheasant Sweater

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246715460
This vintage shawl collar sweater was made by the Standard Knitting Co., LTD of Canada under their “Tundra” label.It has coin style buttons and knit in patterns of pheasants.

Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 21″
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 36″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 29″
Length: 32″

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Hank Snow’s Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coats

Headshot, 1946
It’s only appropriate that Hank Snow wore a Hudson’s Bay Blanket coat. This style of blanket coat was a Canadian icon, as well as being favored by cowboy star, Tom Mix. His coats can be seen here. Like Mix’s coat, Snow’s was custom tailored, and had the unusual detail of the sleeve stripe running lengthwise. Early in his career, Snow wore a similarly styled and creased cowboy hat to Mix. Both also favored bow ties.
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Christmas with Hank Snow, 1967
By the 1960s, Snow was wearing a new coat, also custom tailored. It had four pleated patch pockets with an unusual round shape. The coat had a 4×8 double breasted front, and a wrap-around belted back.
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Hits Covered by Snow, 1969
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For much more on Hank Snow and western style please visit Golden West Clothing.

7-3/8 Henri Henri fedora hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271206311852

This hat was made in Germany and sold by Henri Henri of Montreal, Canada. The raw edge brim with minimal flanging makes me think this hat was released in the wake of the release of Indiana Jones, when this style made a resurgence. The hat originally sold for $245.

Size: 7-3/8
Brim Width: 2-3/4″
Crown Height: 5-1/4″
Ribbon Width: 1-1/2″

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Tom Mix’s Hudson’s Bay Blanket coats

Tom Mix, the king of the cowboys, was a fan of Hudson’s Bay blanket coats for decades of his career, wearing his in a variety of films as well as off the set.
The first picture I can find of him wearing one is in 1918, in the film Ace High. He seems to have worn the style for the next 20 years until his death. During this time, there were three coats that I have been able to track down. The first and the second one are the same pattern, with subtle differences in the way the stripes line up distinguishing the two. In particular, the stripes on the shoulder yoke are a giveaway. The earlier version had a dark stripe centered with the pockets, while the second version had a white stripe. There were also differences in the color of the belt loops, and how the stripes lined up with the pockets.
The second version was a departure. The overall cut is somewhat simplified, without the large bellows pockets. Notch lapels replace the shirt style collar of the first two. The edges are trimmed with sections of dark stripe, and a dark zig-zag stripe is sewn to the chest, an exaggerated version of the western scalloped yoke. I particularly like the multi-tonal arrows running down the sleeves. Like other elements on this coat, these are cut out from the different color fields of a blanket and applied to the coat, creating the unique pattern.

1918- Ace High.
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1919 – The Wilderness Trail.
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unknown date-
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1923 – North of Hudson Bay
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c.1926 – Though the same cut as the c.1918 version, the stripes line up noticeably differently, particularly in the shoulder yoke. On the earlier version, the dark stripe lines up with the center of the pocket. On this version, it is the light background stripe which is centered. This version appears to have a buckle on the belt instead of buttons. The stripes of the body line up differently with the pockets.
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1928 – A different blanket coat comes onto the scene.
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1930 – Nash Car ad. The old style coat is still in rotation, but this appears to be the second version of it. In this picture, another difference from the first version of the coat is visible- the belt loops. On the earlier version in the same cut, the belt loops are made of the white portion of the blanket. In this version, they are part of a dark stripe.
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1931
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Unknown Date
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