1920s A-1 leather jacket (repro)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281154609109

This jacket is a very close copy of the suede leather “windbreaker” jackets of the 1920s which evolved into the A-1 flight jacket. Many of these early jackets were made of lightweight leathers, suede or capeskin, and were unlined. Separable bottom zippers were not invented until 1927, and didn’t come to jackets until c.1930, so jackets of the 1920s had button fronts. In this period, knit collars, cuffs and waistbands were popular. These jackets were marketed toward the sporting market: golfers, hunters, outdoorsmen. This short style would come to be adopted by civilian aviators, as it was far less clumsy than the full length coats of the WWI period.

There are no tags or identifying marks. Though this jacket is vintage, probably from the ’60s or so from the look of the buttons, it is a good reproduction of that 1920s style. It has caramel colored buttons and is made from rough-out capeskin. It is entirely unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 23″

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Late 1930s belted leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281154502621
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s or early 1940s. Whereas many jackets of this era either had a button on belt, or a half-belt back, this one has a full attached belt. It has an action back It has two buttoned vertical pockets on the chest, and flapped buttoned pockets. The front is done up with a deco sunburst Talon zipper, which helps pin the date down. The jacket is fully lined. Though the tag is missing, the leather on this jacket feels like other horsehide jackets of this era I’ve had. The leather has developed a great patina over time, and the grain has really started to pop on the back panels.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 25-1/2″

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1930s Suede Leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142062357
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1930s. From the rare variant of Talon zipper, it can be dated to about 1936 or 1937. It is made of brown suede leather, in a classic utility jacket style. From the sizing, I’d say this was made for the teenage market. Handwarmer pockets, yoked back, zip breast pocket, zip front, side adjuster belts. Both zippers are in excellent condition and work well.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Shoulder to shoulder: 15-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 17-1/2″

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AT Hendrick 1940s buckskin half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244469421
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s by A.T. Hendrick. It is made of soft, high quality buckskin leather, in a button front waist-length half-belt style. The buttons are leather “football” knot style. It has fancy bellows patch pockets, and an action back. The chest pocket has a Talon chain zipper of the type used in the 1940s.

A bit about the maker: Allie T. Hendricks was born on January 27, 1896. He worked as a clothes cleaner through the 1920s and into the 1930s. In 1936, he opened his own tailor shop in the one bedroom house at 1796 Trenton St., Denver, CO which he shared with his wife, Marie. Early directory listings indicate he produced leather jackets exclusively. Later ones use the broader term “leather goods”. Like many small western leather shops, it seems he specialized in buckskin.
There is a bit of confusion over the name – his own labels read “AT Hendrick” (no S), but his directory listings and social security records spell it “Hendricks”. He died in early 1981, aged 84.

Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

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1939

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The home where Hendricks produced his leather jackets

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Double Breasted German leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244474811
This vintage leather jacket was made in Germany in the 1960s. It was made by Erlmeier Ledermodelle. It started out life as a hip length jacket and was at some point cut down into a waist length motorcycle style. The conversion was well executed. It is double breasted with a button front, and buttons for shoulder boards. There are double-snap breast pockets. The back has a scalloped yoke.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 23″

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Pal O’Mine hair on leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271235564659
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Fleecy Mfg. Co of Chicago, IL, under the Pal-O’Mine Sportswear label. It is a classic utility jacket style, with a twist. It has a shirt style collar, a brass Talon zipper, and slash handwarmer pockets. The shoulders are trimmed with hair-on cowhide for that western flair. It appears that the edges of the pockets and the shoulder yokes once had fringed trim, but that the original owner removed it.The size and styling make me think this was probably marketed at the young men’s demographic.

Chest: 19″
Sleeve: 22-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 15″
Length: 26″

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Rodeo Sport Togs lace up suede shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132682146
This vintage shirt jacket was made by the Seattle Woolen Co. under the Rodeo Sport Togs label. It has a lace-up front, a shirt cut, and a yoked back. There is a flap inside (like a gas-flap on WWII shirts) to back the lace-up portion. The lace is elasticized to make putting the shirt on easier.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 25″

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Los Angeles Sportogs leather western shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281132689425
This vintage leather shirt jacket was made in California by Los Angeles Sportogs. It is an unusual style, a western pearl-snap shirt, but instead of gabardine, it is made out of white leather, with hair-on cowhide trip on the yokes, pockets, and cuffs. I particularly like the broad arrow reinforcements at the edges of the “smile” pockets. The back of the shirt-jacket has an unusual cutaway. Snaps are United Carr / DOT snapper.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26
Length: 26-1/2″

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Padded CHP leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271233323658
This leather jacket is made in the “Columbia” style, pioneered by Langlitz leathers. This style is also known as the CHP / California Highway Patrol. This particular one was sold by “Leather Man”, and is a size 50. It has quilted, padded shoulders and elbows, an asymmetric zip, and zip cuffs with sheepskin storm cuffs. This is made of extremely heavyweight leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Waist: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem, down back): 22-1/2″

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1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
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By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

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1929

1931

1933

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1937

1947