Shawl collar Jeffrey Banks x Lakeland mackinaw

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370344153
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland. It is a 1920s- 1930s mackinaw style, with a shawl collar, buttoned patch pockets and a waist belt. This style was popularized in the 1910s by the Patrick mackinaw company of Duluth. They had a second boom in the 1920s-1930s as workwear, especially with railroad men. The simpler styling and navy blue wool of this one is more consistent with the 1920s-1930s ones.
It was designed by Jeffrey Banks in the late 1970s, and is a very good reproduction. Comparing it to originals in my collection from the era, it’s very close in terms of styling and cut. The interior of the coat is the real giveaway. While most of the originals were unlined, this has a luxurious quilted liner.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32″

Also see:

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/16/jeffrey-banks-lakeland-shawl-collar-mackinaw/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/31/jeffrey-banks-lakeland-blanket-coat/

1930s capeskin suede Halfbelt leather jacket

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370357479
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s. It is a halfbelt style in a hip length. It has a belted back with pleated detailing. It has flapped hip pockets and zipper chest pockets. The main zipper is a sunburst Talon and the pocket zippers are also Talon.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Length: 26″

1950s Hudson’s Bay car coat

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243854821
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s. It is a Hudson’s Bay point blanket style, though this particular pattern of blanket came from a different woolen mill. This single breasted car coat style was made in this blanket material during the 1950s by a variety of makers. I’ve had ones very similar to this made by Lakeland and by Albert Richard. Unfortunately, this one has lost its tags, and the details, while close to the others, are not exact, so I can not be certain on the manufacturer. It has knotted leather buttons, and belted cuffs with a very nice loop detail. The coat has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 33-1/2″

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/11/17/1946-albert-richard-blanket-coat/

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243862765
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/21/1920s-carss-mackinaw-coat/

1950s Brent halfbelt leather jacket

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243867632

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s by Brent, a house brand of Montgomery Ward. It is a heavy leather, probably steerhide, but possibly horsehide- without a label it’s hard to be positive. The jacket has a half-belt back and a slanted zipper closure breast pocket. Zippers are by Conmar. The jacket has a quilted lining and storm cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

Russian army overcoat

Posted on January 3, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

Here’s another one from my collection. It’s a cheap piece of Soviet surplus. It’s a pretty intense looking coat, but the lack of lining and the thin, poor quality wool it was made with means it’s not as warm as it looks. There’s a big waist seam to keep the size of the fabric down. The “leather” on the lapel and the cuffs is some kind of cheap imitation, and makes naugahyde look downright luxurious. Instead of buttons, it has hook and eye closure, which don’t do a very good job at keeping anything closed. There is a hook-and-eye belt rig inside, similar to the snap belt closures I’ve seen on all my German leather overcoats, in place of a jigger button.
I find it odd for a military coat to be all style and little substance, but despite that, I do love this coat.

Deacon E-1 Flight Jacket

Posted on January 3, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

Here’s a coat from my collection. Not for sale, but an interesting piece.

This flight suit was made in 1942 by the Canadian company Deacon Brothers. Deacon Brothers had a factory at 133 Dundas St East Belleville, Ontario, and was known primarily for their shirts.

It was sold to me as being RCAF issue, as part of a two piece flight suit. The military style designation number seems to point to that, as do all the specialized details on the front. I have only seen two other flight suits of this design, and only a few other items made by Deacon. I have seen one example of this same design made by S.S. Holden Ltd.. Multiple manufacturers producing identical patterns does point to this having been an issued item, but its current rarity points to it not having been made in large numbers.

	Spencer Stewart on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Richard on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Spencer Stewart on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	DonJon on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	gregory w kurpita on Wabash Stripe Railroad chore…

Vintage-Haberdashers Blog

Quality vintage menswear

Monthly Archives: January 2014

Shawl collar Jeffrey Banks x Lakeland mackinaw

1930s capeskin suede Halfbelt leather jacket

1950s Hudson’s Bay car coat

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

1950s Brent halfbelt leather jacket

Russian army overcoat

Deacon E-1 Flight Jacket