1930s Pendleton Mackinaw wool utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271994249165
This vintage jacket was made in the 1930s by the Pendleton Woolen Mills of Portland Oregon. It bears the early style Pendleton label, used up to the early 1940s. The jacket is a mackinaw wool work style, with a distinctive combination yoke and shoulder reinforcement, rounded collar points, D-shaped handwarmer pockets, buttoned side adjuster tabs and button adjusters on the cuffs. The zipper on the jacket is a 1950s-1960s replacement, made by Talon. As is typical of these early mackinaw work jackets, this one is unlined. With a 49″ chest, this would best fit a size 44 or 46

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

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Globe Clothing Company blue fedora hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271993248399
This hat was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s and was sold by the Globe Clothing Company of Helena, Montana. It has a mid-with ribbon, wide brim binding, and distinctive blue green felt. It is made from lightweight fur felt, has a relatively flat flange to the brim which gives more of a flop than a snap, and is unlined. It is a 7-1/8.

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On the Road – September 18 and 19

This week, Alex and I did as the song says, and headed west, young man. She’s been working on a photo series in Anaconda, Montana, and I came along to do what I thought would be a bit of casual vintage hunting on the way there and back. I had made a similar loop about two months ago with good results and didn’t expect to find more than beautiful scenery and a good time.   photo blog us.jpg

What a treat to have a blue, big sky country type of day for an outing. Last week was in the 90s, the week before was pouring rain, and the one before that there was smoke from forest fires so thick you could barely see a block in front of you. It’s just starting to be fall here, with shocks of yellow mixed into the pine forests and fresh show on the mountain peaks. Perfect weather for tweed jackets and windows down driving through the mountains.
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As always, there were a lot of interesting things along the way that I didn’t buy.  Every trip and every shop always seems to have a particular thing that shows up in unusual numbers.  This time it was pile lined tweed coats from the 1970s. It killed me to pass on the bow ties in the bottom right corner, probably a hundred of them, mostly from the 1970s, but with a couple 1940s and 1950s ones mixed in.  But as low as the asking price of ten bucks a pop is, with the amount of work that goes into photographing and listing them, and with their era, it’s just too much for someone in my position.
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On the hunt- photos by Alex DeLong. Montana is a goldmine for vintage ties.  Usually I’m finding them in thrift shops in small clusters, but every now and again I find a big cache tucked away somewhere. Well, to be more accurate, Alex found this cache, a big crate of ties, high up on a shelf in a back room I’ve never seen open before. It took a lot of sorting through, weeding out the ones that were too damaged, too new, too thin and too plain.  I ended up with about half of the ones in that pile, and found quite a few more in various thrift and secondhand stores.
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Photos by Alex DeLong.  Anaconda and Basin Montana. Basin’s been in decline since the mid 1920s. Where there were once thousands of residents, there are now 255. Bits and pieces from its mining glory days of the early 1900s still remain, mixed in with abandoned cars from the 1940s-1970s. In short, our kind of town.
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The Haul: Two 1940s fedoras, a Biltmore fedora, a MA-1 flight jacket, sheepskin ranch vest, two work jackets, a B-9 Parka, nearly 70 vintage neckties, a 1930s suit jacket, an early 1950s suit jacket, a 1960s tweed jacket, a 1940s overcoat, an early 1960s suit and a handfull of odds and ends.  Keep an eye out over the next couple of days as I get it photographed and listed.  Yet another good couple of days out on the road!

Until next trip,
Spencer
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On the Road in Billings, MT

One of the most common questions I get, right after, “how did you get into all this?”, is “where do you find all your stuff?”. It’s one of those questions that can be hard to answer. “Oh, you know, here and there” usually suffices and avoids the long story.  But the truth is, I drive a lot.

This weekend was a casual overnight excursion to Billings, Montana. For those of you not familiar with the area, the drive from Bozeman to Billings is just under 150 miles, and usually I make it as a day trip. So that’s a 300 mile round trip, hours on the road and a tank of gas, for the hope that maybe, just maybe, there will be some old ties or a couple of vintage hats waiting to be found. There are no guarantees in this business.

But I’ve had good luck in Billings in the past. There are a number of antique shops, thrift stores, secondhand stores and the like, and I usually get lucky at at least one or two.  This past weekend, one of the larger antique malls was having an outdoor antique fair, with its craigslist ad touting 70 vendors.  It was enough to hopefully tip the odds in my favor.

My girlfriend, Alex, and I drove out Friday night so that we could get an early start so we could be back in Bozeman before the sun started to set. We stayed at a charming 1950s motor court, the Dude Rancher Lodge. Neon, knotty pine and exposed beam ceilings combined with recent western themed carpets and brand wall hangings courtesy an appearance on “Hotel Impossible” several years ago, made for a charming place to stay. Full of character, it was way more fun than a chain motel, and just the right kind of place for vintage people like us.

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We made it to the fair a little later than we had hoped, it turned out that in Billings on a Saturday morning, everyone goes out for breakfast, and lined stretched out the door of everyplace good or interesting. I went against every fiber of my being and went to the practically deserted Denny’s for a generic breakfast. I think that might have cancelled out the “shop local” cred the Dude Rancher got me. Oh well.  There was a lot of re-purposed, re-painted, hand-made, shabby chic type of antiques at the fair, but also a few gems to be had. Afterward, we hit up the aforementioned antique shops in downtown Billings and a few of the thrifts. Here are a few of the neat things I spotted, but didn’t buy.  It seemed like I was tripping over vintage hats and vintage neckties at every step, but I have to be selective.  The market is really down on the more mundane patterns of 1940s ties, so even at the reasonable $6 a piece that one vendor was asking, there’s no way for me to make any money from that, so I let probably 30-some of them sit. Same with hats- below a certain size or a certain brim length, there’s such limited demand.
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Things survive in Billings. It’s a good town for lovers of vintage. Neon signs, ghost signs, architecture.
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After a long day of hunting, I managed to find a good sized cache of vintage hats, most of which were originally sold within a few miles of where I found them. But for me, the real treat was that leather jacket.  They’re all over the internet, but it’s getting harder and harder to find “out in the wild”. And this one’s a real beauty. Great patina and a rare model.  I’d love to know who wore it some 60 odd years ago, but I can say that it’s pretty likely they rode a Harley in Billings.
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Here’s the full haul all cleaned up and photographed. For those of you who are interested, you can check out the whole batch HERE
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1950s-1960s Brent Half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271973168257
This vintage leather jacket was made for Montgomery Ward in the late 1950s- early 1960s and sold under their Brent label. It is made of leather, with a half-belt back, a surcoat length, Conmar Conmatic main zipper, zippered breast pocket and combination handwarmer/cargo pockets. It has a full quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1900s Tiger Special hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400991040839
This vintage hat was made around the turn of the century by the B&K Company under the name, “The Tiger Special”. It was sold by N.L. Wann of Fairbury, Illinois. It appears that Wann was bought out in 1916 by a Mr. Lloyd Borngener. The hat has a curled brim and is creased with a center dent and widely spaced pinches. It has a narrow ribbon and is a size 7-1/8.

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1960s Harley Davidson leather pants

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271967398697
These vintage pants were made in the 1960s for Harley-Davidson. They are made of heavyweight black leather with an absolutely killer grain. They have a double snap waistband, heavy jacket size Conmar zipper fly and diamond pull zipper pockets.

Waist (side to side): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Outseam: 47-1/2″
Inseam: 35″
Rise: 12-1/2″

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1930s J.C. Penney Sol-Air straw boater hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400986554100
This vintage boater was made in the 1930s and was sold by the J.C. Penney Company under the Solar Straws / Sol-Air Conditioned label. It is an open weave, and has a Bon Ton Ivy ventilated floating sweatband. The hat has a distinctive hatband design, and is a 7-3/8.

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1940s Golden Bear leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400986630457
This vintage jacket was made in the 1940s by S. Slater & Son of San Francisco, under their Golden Bear label. The jacket is made of goatskin, with a full belt, pleated back, yoked front and back, handwarmer pockets concealed inside the front vertical seams, and flapped cargo pockets. It has a talon zipper with a rectangular holed pull and Talon marked “U” stopbox, which put its date of manufacture between about 1944 and 1948.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 27″

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