1930s chinstrap half-zip shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401028097975

This vintage shirt was made in the 1930s by Duxbak in Utica, New York from plaid wool fabric from the Newton Woolen Mills of Homer, New York.  It has a half-zip front with an early Talon zipper and a two button chinstrap.
Collar: 14″
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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Cushman Japan grizzly jacket repro

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401029083718

This vintage jacket was made by high end Japanese repro company, Cushman.  It is based on a mid 1930s Grizzly (Laskinlamb) jacket.  The jacket is made of horsehide leather and sheepskin, with a paneled construction.  It has a Talon zipper, which appears to be a combination of a repro tape and stopbox with a vintage slider. It has a plaid lining, is belted and has grommet reinforcement at the zipper.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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1930s leather and wool jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401029094981

This vintage jacket was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s.  It is a casual panel front design, with a suede leather front and colar detailing, and wool collar, sleeves and back.  It has a knit waistband in the back, and a triple marked, decon sunburst stopbox Talon zipper, handwarmer pockets and sharply angled talon zipper closure breast pockets up front.  It is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Sleeve (center of collar to cuff): 34-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

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Penney’s plaid coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272050117992

This vintage coat was made in the 1950s for Penney’s.  It is made out of a beige wool with a napped surface and overcheck.  It has a Talon zipper front and buttoned side adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem):30″

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1930s Levis Riders jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272040554895

This vintage jacket was made in the late 1930s by Levi Strauss as part of their Levi Strauss Riders gabardine line.  It is waist length, with handwarmer pockets and button adjuster sides. It has a Talon zipper with sunburst stopbox, placing the date of manufacture in the late 1930s to early 1940s.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 15″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 20″

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Allen Half-belt western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272041500995

This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s-early 1950s in Denver Colorado by the Allen Mfg. Co. It is made of gray striped wool, with a belted back with buttoned side adjusters.  It has a zipper front with a Talon zipper, with a Talon branded U shaped stop box used in the mid-late 1940s and a rounded corner pull, introduced in the late 1940s.  The jacket has handwarmer pockets and steeply angled talon zip breast pocket.
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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Gordon and Ferguson leather lined gabardine half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401024813195

This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s in St. Paul, Minnesota by Gordon & Ferguson under their Field & Stream label.  It has a pleated half-belt back, saddlebag pockets, zipped breast pocket and Talon zipper front with Talon marked U shaped stopbox and square holed pull. Interestingly, it has a leather lining in the body, for windproofing.
Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-3/4″

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1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272037750012
This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability. During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war. President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores. Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

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Duxbak half-zip chinstrap work shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401023026571
This vintage shirt was made in the 1930s by Duxbak in Utica, New York from plaid wool fabric from the Newton Woolen Mills of Homer, New York. It has a half-zip front with an early Talon zipper and a two button chinstrap.

Collar: 14″
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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