Woolrich Indian Blanket Coat

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244850219
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, Pennsylvania for the Thornton Bay Clothing Company. Made in the 1980s, it is a reproduction of the shawl collared Indian blanket mackinaws made famous in the 1910s by companies like Pendleton and Guiterman / Summit. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar. It has both hip pockets and handwarmers. It is belted. The coat is fully lined. The coat is tagged a size medium, but fits more like a size 46 or 48, please refer to the measurements for an accurate fit.

Chest (pit to pit): 26-1/2″ (doubled = 53″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 32″

WWII Doeskin Army Mackinaw

Posted on January 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371265923
This vintage army mackinaw was made in 1942. It is made of doeskin wool in a double breasted, shawl collared, belted mackinaw style. The spec tag identifies the official name as the Officer’s Short Overcoat, and the size as a 38 Long. One of the buttons on the belt is missing, but replacements for this model coat are easily found.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 34″

m1938 Jeep Coat Army Mackinaw

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370848434
This vintage coat is an m1938 jeep coat, issued during WWII. The style descends from sheeplined canvas work coats and shawl collared mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s. It has a cotton shell and a wool lining. The coat has a double breasted front and a wide wool faced shawl collar. It is belted. There is a buttoned throat latch under the collar to secure it in cold weather, fastened with a riveted “wreath” button. Patches identify the original owner as a technical sergeant in the Army Service Forces.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 31-1/2″

Western Costume shawl collar jacket

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231689469
This vintage jacket came from the warehouses of Western Costume of Hollywood, and was used in Westerns and in 19th century period pieces. With the texture of the fabric and the placement of the pockets, I would guess that this was probably cut down from an old shawl collared overcoat or mackinaw, and had the collar trim and extra buttonholes added by Western Costume. The jacket has fairly heavy wear, which is to be expected from something that’s been in a movie costume department for decades.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 20″

Town and Country Sheeplined Coat

Posted on December 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281230598392
This vintage sheeplined coat was made in the 1930s under the Guiterman Bros. “Town and Country” label. The coat is made of green canvas, with a brown mouton shawl collar. As was common with coats of this style, it has loops instead of buttonholes. Usually these loops are made of corded material, but this one has higher quality leather loops. There are slash handwarmer pockets on the chest and flapped cargo pockets on the hips. The corners of the pockets have leather reinforcements. The coat is lined to the hip with sheepskin, and the sleeves have blanket linings and wool storm cuffs. The coat is belted.

A bit on the company’s history, from a piece I wrote for The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets / The Fedora Lounge: Guiterman Brothers was founded in 1883 and incorporated in 1904. They began using the Summit “Town & Country” name in 1904. In the early 1910s, Guiterman Brothers pioneered the attached soft collared shirt. They also called it the Summit. The company had a plant at 352 Silbey Street, St. Paul, MN, which still stands. They enjoyed prosperity during the 1910s, riding the Mackinaw boom of 1915. They were supposedly the first company to coin the name “windbreaker”. As shown above, their “Town and Country” Coats and vests shared the distinctive double snap Knit-Nek. During WWI, Guiterman Bros. produced flying coats for US aviators. In 1928-1929, the company was purchased by Gordon and Ferguson and continued production.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 39″

Jeffrey Banks / Lakeland shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on December 16, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228720082
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland in the late 1970s as a reproduction of a 1930s shawl collar mackinaw. Having compared it to originals in my collection, the detailing is very close. While the vibrant red color may seem like a modern twist on the design, it was one offered in the 1910s and 1920s by early companies producing this style, like F.A. Patrick, Duluth. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar, a buttoned belt, and large flapped patch pockets. It has a center vent, and has a warm quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32-1/2″

M1926 shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

This vintage jacket is a prewar version of a US army shawl collar mackinaw. The most notable difference from the wartime version is that this is unlined. There are twin breast pockets inside, as well as taped seams. The coat has large patch pockets, with buttoned flaps. The sleeves have buttoned adjuster belts. The jacket has a slimmer, slightly longer cut than the wartime version. This one is pressed to roll to the second button, accentuating that length. It was made by the Lilley Ames company of Columbus, Ohio, and issued to a “Jason Bower”. The name “O. Spencer” is visible directly above, written faintly in pencil. This would best fit someone in the size 36 to 38 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 36″

Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195223460

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. While I have seen several of this particular model, none have had any tags. Originally, these coats were known as “sheeplined” coats, and were popular with railroad men, ranchers and other men who worked outdoors, as they were light for their warmth when compared to wool coats, and were particularly hard wearing. This one defies that name slightly by having an alpaca pile lining and collar. As is typical of the style, instead of buttonholes, this coat has loops, in this instance made from leather. Likewise, the pockets are reinforced with leather. There is a waterproof layer in between the outer canvas layer and the inner warm lining. In lieu of a tag, there is a military style size stamp at the bottom of the coat.

Chest (pit to pit): 34″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 33″

Pheasant Sweater

Posted on July 28, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246715460
This vintage shawl collar sweater was made by the Standard Knitting Co., LTD of Canada under their “Tundra” label.It has coin style buttons and knit in patterns of pheasants.

Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 21″
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 36″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 29″
Length: 32″

Reproduction Shawl Collar Mackinaw

Posted on July 25, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141046168
This coat is a recent reproduction of a style of Mackinaw coat which was popular from the early 1910s through to the 1930s. This style of coat started out with lumberjacks in the pacific northwest at the turn of the century. It broke into mainstream fashion starting around 1912, and was quickly adopted by the collegiate crowd. Workmen and railroad men quickly saw the practicality of its collar and short length and adopted the style.

This reproduction is made of heavyweight black herringbone knit cotton, with a fleeced backing. Like many originals, it is unlined, but the fleeced interior of the fabric makes for a very comfortable jacket. It has a broad shawl collar, and four flapped patch pockets. It is single breasted. There are button adjusters at the wrists.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 29″

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