1940s Patrick Duluth Hollywood jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479077025
This vintage jacket was made by the FA Patrick Company of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made in blue-gray striped wool, in a casual Hollywood jacket style. It has three patch pockets and a wide collar. From the label and styling, this jacket dates from the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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1940s Pendleton half-belt cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379399140
This vintage half-belt jacket was made by the Pendleton Woolen Mills of Pendleton, Oregon and was tailored in California. It is a classic half-belt cossack jacket design, with a Talon zipper front, zipped breast pocket and slash handwarmer pockets. The side belt adjusters are mounted lower than the belt, in the manner of Hercules leather halfbelts of the mid to late 1930s. The style of Talon zipper, with the square hole in the puller and the Talon name on the stopbox place the date of manufacture of the jacket to just after WWII. The (R) symbol on the Pendleton label, combined with the zipper designs narrow it down to about 1947.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

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Yellow Point Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271506036864
This vintage coat was made by the United Colors of Benetton. It is made of striped point blanket material, like that made famous by the Hudson’s Bay blanket coats, but in a vibrant yellow, red, green and gray pattern never offered by the HBC. The collar is backed with corduroy. The coat is single breasted, with patch pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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Gray Blanket stripe coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262510170
This vintage jacket was made in the 1970s or 1980s. It closely follows the pattern of Hudson’s Bay point blanket jackets of the time, with its shirt style collar and buttoned patch pockets. However, I don’t believe the Hudson’s Bay Company ever produced their jackets in this period with a gray background. I have seen this pattern of fabric made by Woolrich and by Pendleton, so possibly it’s one of theirs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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Woolrich Indian Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244850219
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, Pennsylvania for the Thornton Bay Clothing Company. Made in the 1980s, it is a reproduction of the shawl collared Indian blanket mackinaws made famous in the 1910s by companies like Pendleton and Guiterman / Summit. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar. It has both hip pockets and handwarmers. It is belted. The coat is fully lined. The coat is tagged a size medium, but fits more like a size 46 or 48, please refer to the measurements for an accurate fit.

Chest (pit to pit): 26-1/2″ (doubled = 53″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 32″

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Pendleton Vest no. 3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246693633
This vintage vest was made by Pendleton woolen mills of Portland, Oregon, out of one of their famous blankets. The tag reads ” High Grade Westernwear”. It has a black background with shades of green, red, purple and brown. The buttons are southwestern sunbeam patterned. It seems to run a bit small from the 38 size tag, please refer to the measurements provided.

Chest (pit to pit): 18-1/2″
Length: 20-1/2″

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Pendleton Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141522504
This vintage coat was made by Pendleton Woolen Mills of Portland, Oregon. It is made from Pendleton Indian trade blankets. It is a single breasted style, with western yokes on the shoulders and back. There are slash handwarmer pockets at the chest, and flapped patch pockets below. The coat is unlined, save for the shoulders.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

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Pendleton Vest II

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271199140959
This vintage vest was custom madein the 1950s, by “Jackie”. This kind of label was typical for small, cottage industry seamstresses of the period. The vest is made from a Pendleton indian blanket, and the seams are trimmed with blanket material. It has a three button front. There are several surface moth bites on the right shoulder.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Length: 22″

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Pendleton Vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141508243
This vintage vest was custom made mid-century from a Pendleton blanket. It is reversible, with patch pockets on both sides. All the seams are finished neatly and properly such that it truly is reversible. The side seams are cut like shirt tails.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Length: 29″

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Custom made Pendleton blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232918925
This vintage coat was handmade from a Pendleton Indian blanket. It is buttonless, probably meant to be worn with a belt, and has a hood. There are identical pockets on the inside of the jacket as the outside, which would seem to suggest that it is reversible. The finishing on the seams inside the sleeve suggests otherwise. There are holes in and by the pocket, by the corner of the cutaway and the start of one by the collar seam.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 22″
Length (bottom of hood to hem): 29″

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