1910s “The Gem” Special hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337853385
This vintage hunting vest was made by the Gem Shirt Company of Dayton, Ohio in the 1910s. The Gem Shirt Co. was founded c.1888, and diversified into canvas hunting clothes in the early part of the 20th century, innovating the usage of lined waterproof game bags. They were a high end maker at the time, making their products from an excellent grade of cotton canvas duck. They ceased production by the 1920s.
The vest has 37 closed bottomed reinforced corduroy shotgun shell pockets on the front of the vest. The corduroy material is somewhat unusual, a nice early detail. The back is belted, but instead of the usual vest style central belt and buckle arrangement, this one has double side adjuster belts. It has Southwick buckles, a type patented in 1906, also used on some DuxBak vests of the period. It has an early black and yellow label, which identifies this model as the “Special”, made for “Outers and Hunters”. The grouse on the label is carried through onto the figural buttons. They are removable ring-back, of the type common on workwear of the period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (front): 24″
Length (rear): 19″

For another vest made by “The Gem”, see here. A comparison of the two is below.

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Patent no 819,180, as found on the back of the buckle.  Patented May 1, 1906
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The logo for “The Gem” was trademarked in 1911, although it had been in use since 1888. The label on this vest reads “Registered”, dating it after 1911.
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Ad for “The Gem” from 1912

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The Gem Hunting Coat, 1917

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1918. Guiterman Bros Town and Country vest, Gem Hunting Coat and a Springfield Rifle

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1923. Gem Hunting Vests and coats.  This is the last I can find on the company.

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1950s Bullseye Bill fishing jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337372551
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold under the “Bullseye Bill” label. I have had several of these jackets, dating from the 1930s-1950s, and other than the hardware and labels, the overall design barely changed. This one has a “Wiz” zipper front, where as earlier models generally had button fronts. There are pockets on both of the arms, wraparound pockets, a large rear game pocket, a breast pocket, fly rod loop and a sheepskin patch for flies. There is a D-ring on the back of the jacket to attach further gear to, and two internal patch pockets Most people who wear these as streetwear remove the fly pad. This one is made of light, summer weight canvas.

In case if you don’t know wher to buy water shoes for this part.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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Similar in cut to this “Snag Pruf” jacket

1940s Maxproof waxed canvas coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271490626752
This vintage coat was made in the United Kingdom by Maxproof. It is made of heavy, waterproof waxed canvas. While it is single breasted, it has a double row of buttons, and double set of flaps to keep all water and wind out when riding your motorcycle in the rain. It has a side collar and throat latch / chinstrap which close the neck up equally as securely. The wrists can be cinched down with buttoned belts, and the length is long enough to keep you dry. There are three eyelets at each underarm for ventilation, and a rear vent.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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1920s high-neck buckle-back hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271491035755
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. It is made from canvas, with thirty four closed bottomed shotgun shell loops. It has a high necked closure to keep out the elements, similar to the Browns Beach vests of the period, which were also designed for hunting. The vest has a buckle back. An ink-stamped canvas tag identifies this as a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Length: 19-1/2″

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HSM belt-back tweed suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336529153
This vintage suit was made in the late 1960s-early 1970s by Hart Schaffner & Marx during a brief revival of 1930s belt-back styles. While many from this period have scalloped pocket flaps and other 1970s detailing, this one plays it very close to the originals. It is made of brown wool tweed with a rust colored overcheck. It has patch pockets, and a belted, pleated back. The jacket is half-lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Inseam: 29-1/4″, 2″ to let out
Outseam: 41″
Thigh: 12″
Knee: 9-3/4″
Cuff: 10″

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1950s H Bar C Ranchwear western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489341046
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s by H Bar C Ranchwear. It it is made of striped wool and has peaked lapels, flapped patch pockets, fancy yokes front and back and a bi-swing action back. It is fully lined in octagon/paisley fabric. The union tag is the early 1949 variant, prior to the inclusion of the (R) symbol, which dates its manufacture between 1949 and 1962. The styling suggests a date of manufacture in the mid 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31-1/2″

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1950s Lasso Western Wear western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489217364
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s under the Lasso Western Wear label. It is single breasted, with peak lapels, scalloped, buttoned pocket flaps, and a bi-swing action back. It is made of brown on brown blanket material, similar to that produced by the Hudson’s Bay company. This one is lighter weight than that fabric, but has the same coloration and napped texture. According to the tag, the model name is the Mr. Mak. The details, particularly the shape and width of the lapels, identify this as a 1950s example. Looking through Lasso Western Wear catalogs of the period, by the early 1960s, while the overall cut was similar, the lapels had narrowed greatly, and the peak had been largely overtaken by the notch in popularity.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1950s Pioneer Wear western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336454443
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s by Pioneer wear. It is made from a gray on gray shadow plaid. It has peak lapels, deep scalloped yokes front and rear, and a bi-swing action back. Buttons are all gray leather “knot” type.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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Merrill Woolens plaid jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489386897
This vintage jacket was made in the 1940s by Merrill Woolens of Merrill, Wisconsin. With its square bottom, boxy cut, and coat style collar, the cut is reminiscent of a Hollywood jacket. The plaid fabric and zipper breast pocket put it in a woodsier category altogether.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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Resistol Stagecoach cowboy hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336734700
This cowboy hat was made by Resistol as part of their old-west styled “Stagecoach” line. It was probably manufactured in the 1980s, and is made of high quality fur felt. It has a great 1920s style, with a wide, curled brim, and a tall crown. The hat has a buckled leather band, appropriate for the 1920s style.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 6-1/2″
Crown Height: 4″

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