1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
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By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

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1940s Californian Suede halfbelt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232887206
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their “Californian” brand. It has classic half-belt styling with side belt adjusters. The front closes with buttons, which are of the leather knot/football type. This jacket has jacket style lapels instead of the shirt style collar you generally see on short leather jackets of this style. There are dual vertical breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

 

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1956 Varsity Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130415837
This vintage letterman jacket was made in the 1950s. The shoulder patch says 1956, which could place its date of manufacture anywhere from 1952 and 1956. It is a classic varsity style, with raglan shoulders, a snap front, and knit cuffs, collar, and waistband. The pockets are trimmed in leather. The gold trim on one of the sleeves has worn away on the shoulder, and there are marks from old patches. The wool is heavily worn. This jacket was made by Finch Sportswear of Minnesota, and has great chainsitching on the back of an Indian wearing buckin pants portaging a Canoe.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Center of collar to cuff: 35″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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Custom made Pendleton blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232918925
This vintage coat was handmade from a Pendleton Indian blanket. It is buttonless, probably meant to be worn with a belt, and has a hood. There are identical pockets on the inside of the jacket as the outside, which would seem to suggest that it is reversible. The finishing on the seams inside the sleeve suggests otherwise. There are holes in and by the pocket, by the corner of the cutaway and the start of one by the collar seam.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 22″
Length (bottom of hood to hem): 29″

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1940s Hart Larsen’s double breasted suit jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130428575
This vintage double breasted suit jacket was made in the 1940s by Hart Larsen’s of Eugene, Oregon. It is a medium blue with a subtle stripe.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

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1950s Palm Beach dinner jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130432617
This vintage dinner jacket was made in the mid 1950s by Palm Beach. The jacket bears a variant of the label used 1949-1956 by Palm Beach after they added the location of their mill (Sanford) to the name of their company (Goodall Worsted) to form Goodall Sanford, Inc. Goodall Sanford closed their mills in 1955/1956, so the jacket can not date from any later than that. The dinner jacket features one button styling and a shawl collar. It has a 1949 union tag.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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