Tom Mix’s Hudson’s Bay Blanket coats

Tom Mix, the king of the cowboys, was a fan of Hudson’s Bay blanket coats for decades of his career, wearing his in a variety of films as well as off the set.
The first picture I can find of him wearing one is in 1918, in the film Ace High. He seems to have worn the style for the next 20 years until his death. During this time, there were three coats that I have been able to track down. The first and the second one are the same pattern, with subtle differences in the way the stripes line up distinguishing the two. In particular, the stripes on the shoulder yoke are a giveaway. The earlier version had a dark stripe centered with the pockets, while the second version had a white stripe. There were also differences in the color of the belt loops, and how the stripes lined up with the pockets.
The second version was a departure. The overall cut is somewhat simplified, without the large bellows pockets. Notch lapels replace the shirt style collar of the first two. The edges are trimmed with sections of dark stripe, and a dark zig-zag stripe is sewn to the chest, an exaggerated version of the western scalloped yoke. I particularly like the multi-tonal arrows running down the sleeves. Like other elements on this coat, these are cut out from the different color fields of a blanket and applied to the coat, creating the unique pattern.

1918- Ace High.
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1919 – The Wilderness Trail.
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unknown date-
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1923 – North of Hudson Bay
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c.1926 – Though the same cut as the c.1918 version, the stripes line up noticeably differently, particularly in the shoulder yoke. On the earlier version, the dark stripe lines up with the center of the pocket. On this version, it is the light background stripe which is centered. This version appears to have a buckle on the belt instead of buttons. The stripes of the body line up differently with the pockets.
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1928 – A different blanket coat comes onto the scene.
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1930 – Nash Car ad. The old style coat is still in rotation, but this appears to be the second version of it. In this picture, another difference from the first version of the coat is visible- the belt loops. On the earlier version in the same cut, the belt loops are made of the white portion of the blanket. In this version, they are part of a dark stripe.
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1931
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Unknown Date
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Pendleton Indian Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281088061065

This vintage coat was made by Pendleton Woolen Mills. It is constructed from one of their famous trade blankets. It is a single breasted style, with a wide collar, and yoked shoulders. It has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps, and handwarmer pockets. It has a four button front. The coat is unlined. It has a 1960s style tag, but does not have the Woolmark you normally see on later tags.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 34″

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Cowboy Joe Las Vegas shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271177383301
This vintage gabardine shirt was made in the early-mid 1950s by Cowboy Joe. It is their “Las Vegas” model. It is made of two tone gabardine, seafoam for the body, and green for the contrast. It has Rau-Klikit pearl snaps. The male side of the snap second from the top is missing. There are white piped “smile” pockets and fancy five-snap cuffs. The shoulders and collar are chainstitched with rainbow colored ribbon in abstracted flowers and plants. This is the same model of shirt worn by Elvis’s bass player, Bill Black and guitarist, Scotty Moore c. 1954. This example bears the marks of a lifetime of use, with stains and wear to the fabric.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Collar: 15″

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Cowboy Joe shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281082726086

This vintage gabardine shirt was made in the early-mid 1950s by Cowboy Joe. It is made of two tone gabardine, sandy tan for the body, and black for the contrast. Scotty Moore and Bill Black wore this model of shirt in their early days with Elvis, c. 1954. This particular example probably dates from just before that, as it has buttons instead of pearl snaps. It has rainbow ribbon chainstitching of abstracted flowers and plants on the front yoke.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Collar: 15″

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Country Western

Here’s another piece from the collection.
This suit was originally owned by a country/western performer named Robert Frost. Unfortunately I have been able to find out very little about him. The suit is a home-made job from the ’60s, in the style of the Nudie suits worn by Porter Wagoner. If anyone has any info on it, I’d love to hear from you.

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Gordon and Ferguson Field and Stream plaid western jacket

I saw one of these on Ira Gitlin at the Blob’s Park Buddy Holly tribute concert back in early February, and commented on what a cool jacket it was.  Somewhat weirdly, the next day I found a nearly identical jacket and snapped it up.  It’s funny how the world works.

Photo by Michael G. Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281070743767

This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s by Gordon and Ferguson of St. Paul, MN under their Field and Stream label. It is a western style jacket, with peak lapels, buttoned saddlebag pockets, and a yoked back with bi-swing shoulders.

Chest: 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Shoulder to cuff: 24″

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Hair On Cowhide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271121758200

This vintage deerskin leather jacket has a classic western style, with yokes shoulders and a shirt style collar.  It is fully lined, belted and has hair on cowhide trim, for that true cowboy look.Chest: 21″Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″Sleeve: 26″    Photobucket

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El Paso Chaps

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271116503500

Vintage chaps with El Paso lettering. Saddlebag style pockets with leather knot closure.  Great detailing, with creme colored leather and red lettering. Wonderful patina and grain. Star conchos, riveted pockets.
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Master Hatters of Texas

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281034217802

This hat was made by the Masterhatters of Texas (MHT).  It has a self felt band with a metal detail bearing the MHT logo where a buckle or bow would usually be.  Cattleman’s crease. The sweatband indicates it is a 3X felt, but the quality is fairly coarse.  Size 7-5/8
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Cowpuncher’s Palace

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271116490095

This cowboy hat was made, probably in the 1980s for Cowpuncher’s Palace of Decatur, GA.  It feels like a hatco product of the time.  It is black, heavily stiffened, long nap 7X beaver fur felt, and is a 7-1/8 long oval.  The hatband is missing. The hat has a gus / tom mix crease.
Size: 7-1/8 Long Oval

Brim Width: 4″
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