1930s National Clothing Co. Alpacuna double breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271689389026
This vintage coat was made in the late 1930s for the National Clothing Company of Rochester, NY out of Alpacuna Fabric. The coat is double breasted with raglan shoulders and a belted back. The coat is fully lined and has a vertical interior pocket.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Center of collar to end of cuff: 35-1/2″ (equivalent to 26″ sleeves and 19″ shoulders)
Length (base of collar to hem): 46″

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1930s belt back Hart Schaffner & Marx overcoat

This vintage overcoat was made between 1936 and 1938 by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold in Bozeman, Montana by Wagner Brothers. It is an extremely rare cut, single breasted, with a belted back. Usually on overcoats these belt-back treatments were reserved for double breasted models. The coat is gray with a subtle plaid. It is half-lined, as was common in the era. The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union tag is a rare 1936 variant, which narrows the dating down hugely, as it was replaced by a new tag design in 1939.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 45″

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1930s Sam Stark half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271680370513
This jacket was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s and was sold in Cheyenne, Wyoming by Sam Stark. The jacket is a waist length, button front half-belt cossack style, with handwarmer pockets and side adjuster belts. The original buttons probably would have been brown bakelite or corozo, but were replaced sometime in the 1940s with metal military Wyoming state seal buttons. The backs of these buttons are marked “Superior Quality”. The cuffs do up with snap-belt adjusters. Inside one of the pockets I found an empty pack of Kool cigarettes with a 1944 copyright and a series 120 Dewitt Clinton tax stamp, dating the pack to 1950, and also helping set a probable date for the last time this jacket was worn.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

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1930s Fifth Avenue Year Bonded double breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670853068
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s and was sold under the Fifth Avenue Year Bonded Clothes label. The coat is a 3×6 double breasted, with flapped pockets and a breast pocket. The back is belted, and the coat is half-lined, with a flannel underlayer to the lining. The coat is made from a heavy boucle wool, giving it a nice textural depth. I can find no wear to the coat, and the rear vent was never opened.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 47-1/2″

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Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498532031
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It was made in the USA from black wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket is unlined. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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Late 1940s Deerskin cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271647952876
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s from soft buckskin leather. Going by the unusual details, like the reinforcing stitching at the base of the bi-swing back, it’s safe to say that it was made in Denver, Colorado. The jacket has a Talon zipper front in a transitional style, with a large holed pull, unmarked slider connection and Talon branded stopbox. That helps narrow the dating down considerably, since these Denver produced jackets had their own unique style and did not follow the larger overall fashion trends the way mass produced jackets did. The jacket has flapped pockets with leather buttons, a plain front, bi-swing back, and a seam where there would generally be a half-belt, but which performs the same visual function.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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Late 1930s Mongolama overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271647982141
This vintage overcoat was made in the very late 1930s or early 1940s from “Mongolama” cloth, and was sold in Bozeman, Montana by Wagner Bros. It is a double breasted cut, in a heavy gray wool blend fabric. It has lazy peak lapels, a belted back, cuffed sleeves, and a 3×6 double breasted fastening, a very 1930s style. It has a 1939 Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union tag which puts its manufacture between 1939 and 1949. The style, and the date range where Mongolama was advertised put it at the earliest end of this time frame. The coat is fully lined, which is somewhat unusual for overcoats of this period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

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HSM belt-back tweed suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336529153
This vintage suit was made in the late 1960s-early 1970s by Hart Schaffner & Marx during a brief revival of 1930s belt-back styles. While many from this period have scalloped pocket flaps and other 1970s detailing, this one plays it very close to the originals. It is made of brown wool tweed with a rust colored overcheck. It has patch pockets, and a belted, pleated back. The jacket is half-lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Inseam: 29-1/4″, 2″ to let out
Outseam: 41″
Thigh: 12″
Knee: 9-3/4″
Cuff: 10″

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1940s Penney’s Belt Back Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281321564485
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s, and was sold by Penney’s. It is made of plaid wool- 65% reprocessed and 35% new. The use of reprocessed wool like this was common on work coats of the period. It is double breasted, with handwarmers on the chest and flapped cargo pockets. It has a belted back. The coat is lined in plaid cotton. It has seen heavy wear and usage, with wear, damage and repairs throughout much of the coat. The collar has been altered with an additional buttonhole and button to securely cinch the coat up in cold working conditions.

Tagged size: 46
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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1940s Belt back double breasted mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271391492640

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the mid to late 1940s. Going by the style and the lining, it’s likely that it was sold by Sears under the Hercules label. Whereas most plaid jackets were made for the hunting market, this one is of the type marketed in the 1940s as workwear. It has a double breasted front, handwarmer pockets on the chest and large flapped pockets on the hips. The large zipped pocket on the right side is a nice and rarely seen detail. It does up with a bell shaped Talon zipper, which helps with the dating. This has a half-belt back. The coat has a blue plaid lining

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

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