1939 variant union tag

I got an overcoat dated October 1939 today with a variant on the 1939 union tag I’ve never seen before.

Above, the variant on that coat, below, the standard version.

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Brown Double Breasted Overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281038288330

This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Collegian Clothes for the Matzke Dite Company of Milwaukee, Wisconsin.  It bears a 1939 Union tag, which places its date of manufacture between 1939 and 1949.  The coat is a brown wool alpaca blend.  It has a double breasted front with wide lapels, has button tabs on the sleeves, and a plain vented back. For some inexplicable reason, someone has cut out the botton half of the lining.Chest: 23″Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″Sleeve: 25″    Photobucket

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1930s “Guardsman” Overcoat

This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s and was sold by Colwell Brothers in Halifax, Nova Scotia.  Colwell Brothers was (and still is) Halifax’s premier men’s store.  They were extremely high end, and I have handled a lot of merchandise that they sold over the years.  It is all absolutely the best of the best, and they favored more traditional, English styles.  This overcoat has a 1936 union tag, which places its date of manufacture between 1936 and 1939.  It has a six button front.  All buttonholes are functional, but the lapels are rolled to the second button, something which was a style of the time.  As this is a more conservative style, it has a plain back instead of the fancy belted backs you would see on younger mens styles.  It is fully satin lined. The coat is in excellent condition.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to cuff: 26″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18-1/2
Length: 44″
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Union Labels

An extremely rough guide to union tags. There are other unions whose tags are not represented here. Companies and tailors used what tags they had on hand, so there is overlap between different patterns of tags, and there are always exceptions and flukes.

1883 (1883-?)
NRA (1933-1936)

1934 (1934-1936) Not pictured: same as 1936 and 1939 tags
1936 (1936-1939)
1939 (1939-1949)
1949 (1949-1962)
1949 variant (1962-c.1976 ) I’ve seen examples of these on menswear dated into the 1980s, despite the union merging to form the ACTWU in 1976.

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