1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281655706660

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This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has Albert Richard’s patented Tu-Length cuffs, which have buttons on either side, allowing them to be worn down for a longer sleeve or turned up and buttoned for a shorter sleeve length. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind. The collar has a buttoned chinstrap throat latch to cinch it up tight in bad weather.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, turned down): 26″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, turned up): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21-1/2″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”:
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI.
Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company.
Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability.
During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes.
850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war.
President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores.
Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

1950s Pioneer Wear western cowboy jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271821768050
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1950s by Pioneer wear. It is made of purple and green wool plaid, and has peak lapels, a three button front, pointy scalloped yokes front and back, flapped pockets with built in handwarmers and bi-swing shoulders.

Chest (pit to pit):23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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1930s shawl collar leather barnstormer coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820768421
This vintage leather coat was made in the 1930s. It is double breasted, with a mouton collar, leather knot style buttons, fancy buttoned cuffs, handwarmer and flapped cargo pockets with arrow stitched reinforcements, and a covered curly sheepskin lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1940s C.C. Filson cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644238181
This vintage jacket was union made in Seattle Washington by the C.C. Filson Company. It is made of black and white buffalo plaid in their classic cruiser pattern. It has four main pockets, with side access to the game pouch, and two sub-pockets, one slotted and the other for a watch or cigarettes. The coat is double layered wool for the game pouch. This jacket features the early style diamond label, and early style United Carr snaps, with the printed “C.C. Filson Co Manufacturers Seattle” design, before they switched over to the later metal topped version with their name cast in. The cuffs have at some point been reinforced or lengthened with black leather, and there is a patch on the sleeve.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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Ralph Lauren wool half-belt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644182020
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label and is based closely on work jackets of the 1930s. It has a half-belt back with side adjusters, shirt style collar, buttoned cuff adjuster belts, unlined construction with tape seams, handwarmer pockets, a zipped breast pocket and vintage style buttons.

Tagged size: XL
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 24″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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1950s All Weather Garment goatskin bomber jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820684029
This vintage jacket was made in California in the early 1950s from imported Goat Skin. It was made by All Weather Garment. The jacket is made in a post-war “bomber jacket” style, which takes elements of the A-2 flight jacket and melds them with other pre-war civilian styles to make something new. The jacket has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps and angled corners, epaulettes, a shirt style collar, knit cuffs and waistband and a Talon zipper of the style only used in the early 1950s, with the unmarked wide rib stopbox and square hole slider. The jacket has a quilted liner. With a 54″ chest, this would best fit someone who wears a 48-50 long. These early jackets are difficult to find in these larger sizes, especially in such an excellent state of preservation.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 27″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 26-1/2″

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1950s Penney’s Sportclad gabardine jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644153631
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s for Penney’s under the Sportclad label. It is made of khaki colored wool gabardine, with elastic side panels for a neat silhouette, an evolution of the half-belt and side adjuster buckes of 1930s jackets of a similar style. The jacket has a Talon zipper, with the deep grooved, unmarked U shaped stop box which was used in the early 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-3/8″

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