Boucher’s Butte overcoat

Posted on October 7, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401000720480
This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s and was sold by M.H. Schwartz, successor to Boucher’s, located in uptown Butte, Montana. M.H. Schwartz took over Boucher’s c. 1939 and used the “successor to” tagline in 1939 and 1940. The coat is extremely heavy wool, with a wide double breasted closure, broad lapels and handwarmer pockets. Just the thing for those harsh Montana winters, walking up the hill to and from the mine. The coat is fully lined and bears an Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union label. With the way it is stitched into the coat, I can’t tell if it is a 1936 or a 1939 variant. With the c.1939 dating from the retailer’s history, either is possible.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 45-1/2″

1920s mackinaw wool workwear overcoat

Posted on October 7, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271994241318
This vintage coat was made in the 1920s. It is made from heavyweight mackinaw wool, and from its rugged material and cut, was probably intended more as a working overcoat than a dress one. It is double breasted, with a relatively narrow wrap, a broad collar and beautiful brown buttons. It has a buttoned rear belt, which likely buttoned to segments to form a full belt. As is typical of coats which had the option of wearing with or without, it only has the back belt. This coat has chunky buttoned adjuster belts at the wrists, flapped cargo pockets and is un-vented. Typical for mackinaws and work coats of the time, it is unlined save for the sleeves, with the warmth coming from the heavy weight of the dense wool. This one ended up selling for hardly anything after a bidder canceled his bid within hours of the end, revealing all the other bidders high bids and scaring off any potential new bidders.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 43″

1933-1935 Frankoat oatmeal tweed overcoat

Posted on October 7, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271994222328
This vintage jacket was made between 1933 and 1935 by Frank Brothers under their Frankoat label. It is made of midweight oatmeal tweed with a great orange fleck running through it. It has a three button front with caramel colored buttons, raglan shoulders and notch lapels. It bears an incredibly rare Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America label, used only between 1933 and 1935. A new label was issued by the ACWofA in 1936, and again in 1939. The coat is half lined and has the name of the original owner, Gilbert Harrington, sewn inside.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Center of collar to end of cuff): 34″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 46-1/2″

H. Nakashima Trench Coat

Posted on October 7, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400998668611
This vintage jacket was made by the H. Nakashima Co. Ltd. of Osaka, Tokyo, Japan, in the 1950s for a US Army officer during the Korean war.

Tagged size: 44 Extra Long
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder:19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 28″

1940s USPHS bridge coat

Posted on September 14, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400987876601
This vintage bridge coat was made in the 1940s, during WWII for a director of the USPHS. It was made by SSS clothes and bears a 1939 union label. Unlike most bridge coats with their anchor buttons, this one has special medical buttons for its organisation, with a crossed anchor and Caduceus. There are four braids on the sleeve, which for the Navy would indicate a rank of Captain, and for the US Public Health Service denote a rank of Director.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″

Zara Overcoat

Posted on September 14, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271978839968
This coat was made recently by Zara, but pulls its styling heavily from men’s overcoats of the 1920s, with its slim silhouette, wide lapels, high-mounted handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets, fabric and cuff detailing. It is a relatively lightweight coat despite its looks, perfect for parts of the country where the extreme weight of originals is not appropriate.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″

Staunton Military Academy overcoat

Posted on July 17, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400949210594
This vintage overcoat was made by the Shenandoah Tailoring Company, Inc. of Mt. Sidney, Virginia for a cadet at the Staunton Military Academy of Staunton, Virginia. The school closed in 1976.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 50″

Swedish barnstormer leather coat

Posted on May 26, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281691604819
This vintage jacket was made in Sweden. It bears their typical military label. This example appears to be dated either 1961 or 1981, though the basic style goes back to the 1920s. This one has been converted (and a well done conversion too) to a zipper closure from the original button closure. The jacket has raglan shoulders with epaulettes. It is fully lined. The zipper is a double Eclair, which is a bit fiddly, a problem of these two-way zippers.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Sleeve (center of collar to cuff): 33-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34-1/2″

1942 Officer’s short overcoat mackinaw

Posted on May 26, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271870719570
This vintage mackinaw was made to 1942 specifications, and was probably made in 1943. The official term was, Overcoat, Wool, Doeskin O.D. Officers Short Style. This was a successor to the shawl collar overcoats issued from the 1920s-early 1940s. I have one of those in a separate listing. The coat is double breasted, with flapped cargo pockets and epaulettes. It is fully lined.

Tagged size: 36
Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31-1/2″

1940s WWII Albert Turner Shawl Collar mackinaw coat

Posted on May 26, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271870714039
This vintage coat was made in late 1941 or early 1942 by Albert Turner, Inc. to 1941 specs for the officer’s short mackinaw coat. It is a size 36 R and has a shawl collar, epaulettes, flapped patch pockets, a six button double breasted front, and a buttoned belt. The coat is fully lined.

Tagged size: 36R
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 32-1/2″

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Tag Archives: overcoat

Boucher’s Butte overcoat

1920s mackinaw wool workwear overcoat

1933-1935 Frankoat oatmeal tweed overcoat

H. Nakashima Trench Coat

1940s USPHS bridge coat

Zara Overcoat

Staunton Military Academy overcoat

Swedish barnstormer leather coat

1942 Officer’s short overcoat mackinaw

1940s WWII Albert Turner Shawl Collar mackinaw coat