Pre-War R. Plankl loden mackinaw

Posted on October 27, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196380619
This vintage coat was made in Austria before WWII by R. Plankl of Vienna. R. Plankl was founded in 1830, and is one of the oldest and most respected makers and dealers of loden wool goods in the world. While examples of their work from the 1960s and 1970s come on the market fairly regularly, it’s exceedingly rare to see anything from the 1920s or 1930s period.
This coat is made of high quality loden wool, with a nice nap to it. The front follows the basic layout of what in America was called the mackinaw coat. Double breasted, flapped pockets with slash handwarmers above. The sleeves have stylishly angled buttoned adjuster belts. The back of the coat is belted, with a deep pleat starting at the shoulders and continuing to the hem, for additional freedom of motion while wearing the coat. The coat is unlined in most of the body, with a double layer in the front and in the shoulders. There are two buttoned interior pockets. The label is of a style commonly seen in the 1920s and 1930s, with a black background and yellow text. The tag reads ” Wien / R. Plankl / I. Michaelerplatz 6″, and has a logo of a rucksack with crossed ice axes.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 33″

Score Sportswear blue leather cafe racer

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307306053
This vintage leather jacket was made in Toronto by either Score Sporting Goods of by its successor, Shields Sportswear. Without the label, it’s hard to say which incarnation of Harry and Lorne Shields’s company made it. The jacket has the interesting collar of this maker- a short rounded stand collar with a single-snap chinstrap. Most makers made the snap tab as an extension of the collar stand, rather than a second piece. The separate chinstrap is more of a holdover from 1930s leather jacket design. Side adjuster belts are another early style holdover found on this design. The elbows are reinforced with a second layer of leather. There are zip sleeves to keep wind and dust out when riding. Zippers are mismatched, with Canadian made Acme and Lightning zips on the pockets and sleeves respectively. The front zipper is a replacement, with a YKK tape and a vintage Talon slider. The lining is long since missing. The blue leather of this jacket sets it apart in a sea of black and brown leather jackets, as if the distinctive and rugged design wasn’t enough.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23-1/2″

ClothCraft gray flannel sportcoat

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307328400

This vintage gray flannel jacket was made in the 1950s by Joseph & Feiss under the ClothCraft label. The jacket bears a 1949 union label. It has a two button front, patch pockets, and a half lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 31″

Block Sportswear corduroy jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195946202

This vintage jacket was made in California by Block Sportswear in the 1940s. It is brown narrow wale corduroy. It has a three button front and leather buttons. There are twin patch breast pockets and it is unvented. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 32″

35th Engineers – Skyline jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195672861

This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s for a “Bill Story”, a member of the Army 35th Engineer Battalion. The 35th engineers were stationed in Germany from March of 1952 until early 1957, and the jacket dates from within that timeframe. It is satin, in air force blue, with white knit cuffs, collar and waistband. The jacket has a German made “Opti” zipper, the 35th crest embroidered on the back, (ability, courage, results) and the owner’s name embroidered on the front. The lining is quilted.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 20″

Melton Wintermaster two tone jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306991316
This vintage jacket was made in the USA by Melton, under their Wintermaster line. The overall lines of the jacket, with its two tone styling, unlined construction, pocket setup and back belt adjusters all suggest the 1940s or early 1950s, but the hardware points to a date of manufacture no older than the 1960s. This is probably a model that was kept in their product line with no major changes for a long time.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 25″

Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195223460

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. While I have seen several of this particular model, none have had any tags. Originally, these coats were known as “sheeplined” coats, and were popular with railroad men, ranchers and other men who worked outdoors, as they were light for their warmth when compared to wool coats, and were particularly hard wearing. This one defies that name slightly by having an alpaca pile lining and collar. As is typical of the style, instead of buttonholes, this coat has loops, in this instance made from leather. Likewise, the pockets are reinforced with leather. There is a waterproof layer in between the outer canvas layer and the inner warm lining. In lieu of a tag, there is a military style size stamp at the bottom of the coat.

Chest (pit to pit): 34″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 33″

Sears Fieldmaster shawl collar mackinaw

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306426480
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s or 1950s, and was sold by Sears under their Fieldmaster label. It as a canvas shell, with slash handwarmer pockets and flapped hip pockets. Both have leather reinforcement at the corners. As was typical with this style of coat, there are loops instead of butonholes. The collar is black mouton, the lining is sheepskin. The sleeves have a quilted lining. Although this coat was made in the ’40s or ’50s, the style had been around basically unchanged since the turn of the 20th century. They were popular as workwear for men who worked outdoors- for whom a coat that was lightweight yet warm, and which was rugged was a must.

The reinforcements are very similar to what was on the Montgomery Ward coats of the same era. Possibly the same maker? https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/03/14/powr-house-shawl-collar-mackinaw/

This one is also quite similar: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2012/05/23/shawl-collar-mackinaw/

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

1950s Hell on Wheels Motorcycle Club Jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306503829
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s by Peters Sportswear. It is made of black gabardine with yellow piping on the collar, sleeves and pockets. The original owner was a member of the “Hell on Wheels” motorcycle club, when it was still a sanctioned AMA club. The original owner’s name, “Dan” is chainstitched in yellow thread on the chest. It looks like the name was originally longer (Danny?), but that stitches were picked out. The chest also bears a American Motorcyclist Association patch and the club name, “Hell on Wheels”. Somewhat enigmatically, the jacket also has a football letter, “S” stitched on. The cuffs have dragon liberty cuffs sewn to the outside for a bit of extra flair. The jacket has a brass Serval zipper with a pin lock

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 23″

1940s snap front hunting vest

Posted on October 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271301558605
This vintage hunting vest was probably made in the 1930s or 1940s. Dating these vintage hunting vests can sometimes be a bit difficult without labels, as the designs followed what was practical rather than what was fashionable. I have seen other examples of this vest design, but all were like this, without label. It’s an unusual design, deviating from the standard “vest with loops on the front and maybe a belt on the back”. There are two pleated breast pockets, one with a snap closure, the other with a grommet. Instead of the usual button front, this one has snaps, but it goes one further by concealing them. Snaps are “United Carr”. There are closed bottomed canvas pockets for eighteen shotgun shells. The back of the vest has a large bellows game bag, with a waterproof lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Length: 25″

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Tag Archives: clothing

Pre-War R. Plankl loden mackinaw

Score Sportswear blue leather cafe racer

ClothCraft gray flannel sportcoat

Block Sportswear corduroy jacket

35th Engineers – Skyline jacket

Melton Wintermaster two tone jacket

Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

Sears Fieldmaster shawl collar mackinaw

1950s Hell on Wheels Motorcycle Club Jacket

1940s snap front hunting vest