I got an overcoat dated October 1939 today with a variant on the 1939 union tag I’ve never seen before.
Above, the variant on that coat, below, the standard version.
This homburg has lost its liner and sweatband, but bears the old style union tag, which dates it from the early ’30s or before. For everyone who says the homburg is and was a formal hat, I urge you to actually look at period photos, and to everyone who says homburgs are and were stiff hats, I urge you to actually feel a vintage one.