Californian leather Norfolk Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281277761040
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under the Californian label. It takes heavy stylistic cues from the Norfolk jackets of the 1910s and 1920s. The jacket has two breast pocket flaps with chest pleats, a full attached belt, flapped hip pockets, and a pleated back with a scaloped yoke. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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Repro Indian Blanket railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281277739940
This vest was made by a company called Maxwear, in the style of a 1930s work vest, similar to the ones made by Brown’s Beach Jacket and the sleeved versions made by Woolrich. It is made of thick wool approximating the pattern of an Indian blanket. It has a five snap front, with patch pockets. The back has adjuster tabs. Snaps have a star design, continuing the western theme started with the material.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Length: 25″

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Jeffrey Banks / Lakeland shawl collar mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228720082
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland in the late 1970s as a reproduction of a 1930s shawl collar mackinaw. Having compared it to originals in my collection, the detailing is very close. While the vibrant red color may seem like a modern twist on the design, it was one offered in the 1910s and 1920s by early companies producing this style, like F.A. Patrick, Duluth. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar, a buttoned belt, and large flapped patch pockets. It has a center vent, and has a warm quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32-1/2″

 

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Gibson and Barnes A-2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195687466
This is an older Gibson & Barnes reproduction of a WWII Army Air Corps A-2 flight jacket. It is made of heavy russet brown leather, with dark brown knits. The pockets are authentic patch style, not the hand-warmer style they are currently using. The jacket has a one piece back. The jacket has a Scovill Gripper Zipper and Scovill snaps. The tag is long since missing, but the cut, detailing, hardware, and liner color and material identify it as an older G&B.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit cuff): 25″
Length (to end of knit waistband): 24″

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Waxed Cotton A-1 jacket

SOLD
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo equestrian label. It is a reproduction of a jacket style popular from c. 1919 through into the 1930s, which would be adapted by the military into the A-1 flight jacket. The original civilian model of this jacket was defined by its knit collar, cuffs and waistband, and patch pockets. The style was originally a hunting/outdoorsman’s style, and was generally, though not always, made of leather. This reproduction is made of water resistant waxed cotton / oiled cotton, a material appropriate for the style, as it also shares the hunting / outdoorsman’s garment lineage. This jacket has two large patch cargo pockets, and a small functional ticket pocket. The jacket is lined with tartan flannel. Unlike many Ralph Lauren products, this jacket, made under the leather Polo Equestrian label was made in the USA,

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (bottom of collar to bottom of waistband): 26″

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RRL Ralph Lauren beach jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271183858680

This jacket was made as part of Ralph Lauren’s high end RRL line. It draws obvious influence from workwear garments of the 1930s. It is a sleeved waistcoat design, with a snap front and buckle back. It is equal parts hunting mackinaw, railroad vest and Brown’s Beach jacket. It is unlined, and has taped seams. Snaps are marked Double R L.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (collar to hem): 27″

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Hooded Woolrich jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271159624677

This vintage Woolrich coat has really great detailing. It has a brass Talon zipper front, with a buttoned wind flap. It is fully belted, with a chunky metal belt buckle. The handwarmer pockets close with brass talon zippers, and have leather reinforcements at the ends. The pocket trim forms the belt loops in the tradition of norfolk jackets. The front patch pockets are of the saddlebag variety, allowing them to expand when used. The coat has a hood, and a full sherpa lining, with quilted nylon in the sleeves. It is tagged a size 46, but with the 46″ chest measurement, fits like a size 42.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to Cuff: 25″

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1930s cap construction

This cap dates from sometime in the late 1930s through mid 1940s. It is an inexpensive workwear one, with cheap imitation leather sweatband, cracked all to hell from years of sitting in the back room of a shop.

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Because of the condition and small size, I have taken it apart to make a pattern from it. By sometime in the summer, expect to see reproductions based on this 1930s cap for sale. I’m working on other patterns as well, including a one piece, eight dart type cap, also based on a 1930s original.

In keeping with the original $0.50 price of this cap, the brim is made of the finest material- heavy cardboard.
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The eight panels taken apart. The pattern is cut from the material with very little waste.
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The eight panels are sewn together to create the top of the cap. As this is an unlined cap, seam tape is sewn over all the seams for a neater look. The last piece of seam tape is double the length and goes over top all the other pieces, hiding all their edges. A cloth covered button is riveted at the center of the cap, where the eight panels meet. The bottom edge is folded over and sewn with a piece of interfacing to stiffen the opening of the cap.
The brim, in this case cardboard, in other cases rubber or leather, is covered in fabric with a trailing edge. That edge is sewn to the inside of the cap’s opening, and the brim is flipped out. Finally, a sweatband is installed, covering the rough edge of the brim.