1940s Sawyer Barker Pine Tree shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271446932617

This vintage shirt was made by the Sawyer Barker Co. of Portland, Maine, makers of Pine Tree Brand garments. ¬†They were known for their workwear and their cone denim overalls. They had a factory at 120-126 Center Street. The “Made in Maine for over 50 years” dates this shirt to the 1940s.¬†Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (42″)
Tagged size: 16″
Collar: 15-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

 photo IMG_0295.jpg photo IMG_0296.jpg

 photo IMG_0298.jpg

 photo IMG_0299.jpg

 photo 15069027.jpg

Early 1930s Woolrich 503 Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271423336178
This vintage hunting coat was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania in the early 1930s by John Rich / Woolrich Woolen Mills. The 503 style hunting coat as been around with relatively few changes for the better part of a century, but the details make it easy to date. This is the earliest version of this coat I have seen.

While many Woolrich labels look relatively similar in isolation, the company changed their design every few years. This label was used in the very early 1930s. See the dating guide I have put together at the end of the auction. The snaps in this coat are by United Carr, and are a design only used from about 1930-1934. The top of the snap, with its line design, was used by Woolrich until about 1940. They switched to plain headed snaps during WWII, then to Woolrich branded snaps after the war. These early coats have asymmetrical breast pockets, while starting in the late 1950s, Woolrich switched to matching breast pockets. The brown buttons on this early coat are nicer than the red bakelite buttons which Woolrich began to use in the mid 1930s, which has a tendency to craze and crack over time.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

 photo IMG_0014-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0016-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0030.jpg

 photo IMG_0031.jpg

 photo IMG_0017-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0023-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0025-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0033-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0034-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0035-1.jpg

 photo sheep.jpg

 photo snaps.jpg

1930/1940s straight leg hunting breeches

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281277676682

These vintage breeches were made in the 1940s. They are an early style lace bottomed hunting style, with a Talon zipper fly. They are a relatively straight cut. Wear and staining. Holes in seat.

Waist: 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Inseam: 26″
Outseam: 38″
Rise: 12″

 photo IMG_0035.jpg photo IMG_0036.jpg

 photo IMG_0037-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0039.jpg

 photo IMG_0038.jpg

1930s Tru Val Outerwear mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271403726079
This vintage Mackinaw coat was made in the 1930s by Tru Val Outerwear. It is double breasted, made of a muted plaid mackinaw fabric. It has a belted back, with fancy pleats, handwarmer and flapped pockets. As is typical of these early mackinaw coats, it is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

 photo IMG_0233.jpg

 photo IMG_0234.jpg

 photo IMG_0237.jpg

 photo IMG_0238.jpg

 photo IMG_0239.jpg

 photo IMG_0240.jpg

 photo IMG_0241.jpg

 photo IMG_0242.jpg

Mid 1930s Hyde Park overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263922267
This vintage overcoat was made by Hyde Park Clothes sometime between 1936 and 1938, and was sold by one of the Zions Cooperative Mercantile Institution (ZCMI) Stores. The coat is made of brown plaid wool. It is double breasted, with wonderful brown buttons. It has raglan shoulders, and a plain back. The coat is half lined, and has great design on the labels. It bears a 1936 ACWofA union label, which nails down the date.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Center of collar to cuff (due to raglan shoulders): 34-1/2″ (comparable to about a 25″ sleeve with regular shoulders)
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

 photo IMG_1375.jpg

 photo IMG_1376.jpg

 photo IMG_1377.jpg

 photo IMG_1378.jpg

 photo IMG_1379.jpg

 photo IMG_1380.jpg

 photo IMG_1381.jpg

 photo IMG_1382.jpg

 photo IMG_1384.jpg

 photo IMG_1385.jpg

 photo IMG_1386.jpg

R.H. Macy 1930s plaid workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262488148
This vintage plaid wool workshirt was made in the early 1930s and was sold by R.H. Macy & Co., Inc. They later simplified their name to Macy’s. The design of the shirt, in particular the distinctive pocket flaps, are consistent with what was being produced by LL Bean at the time. It’s likely they had the contract for this Macy’s store labeled shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″
Collar: 16″

 photo IMG_0048.jpg

 photo IMG_0050.jpg

 photo IMG_0047.jpg

 photo IMG_0052.jpg

 photo IMG_0055.jpg

 photo IMG_0056.jpg

 photo IMG_0057.jpg

1940s Belt back double breasted mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271391492640

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the mid to late 1940s. Going by the style and the lining, it’s likely that it was sold by Sears under the Hercules label. Whereas most plaid jackets were made for the hunting market, this one is of the type marketed in the 1940s as workwear. It has a double breasted front, handwarmer pockets on the chest and large flapped pockets on the hips. The large zipped pocket on the right side is a nice and rarely seen detail. It does up with a bell shaped Talon zipper, which helps with the dating. This has a half-belt back. The coat has a blue plaid lining

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 photo IMG_0036.jpg

 photo IMG_0037.jpg

 photo IMG_0038.jpg

 photo IMG_0043.jpg

 photo IMG_0044.jpg

 photo IMG_0045.jpg

 photo IMG_0046.jpg

1920s Carss Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352494287
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. This is a rare version. Most were made in striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. This one is made from a wool plaid. It has a squared off shawl collar, with patch breast pockets and handwarmers in a shape which would eventually inspire the D-Pocket found on motorcycle jackets. There are access flaps to an internal game pocket, and adjuster belts, mounted high on the back. The shoulders have pinked capes.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz, and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

 photo IMG_0035-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0036-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0116.jpg

 photo IMG_0127.jpg

 photo IMG_0126.jpg

 photo IMG_0110.jpg

 photo IMG_0111.jpg

 photo IMG_0112.jpg

 photo IMG_0113.jpg

 photo IMG_0117.jpg

 photo IMG_0118.jpg

 photo IMG_0120.jpg

 photo IMG_0121.jpg

 photo IMG_0122.jpg

 photo IMG_0123.jpg

 photo IMG_0124.jpg

1920s plaid Big Indian Shirt workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352508597
This vintage plaid wool workshirt was made by the Big Indian Shirt company. This is their early yellow and black label with tipis, which was used in the 1920s through the early 1930s. There are two breast pockets. The left one is cut to hold a pen. The collar has a nice shape, with a dramatic undercurve. The tails have gussets.

While most plaid shirts like this were made by outdoors companies like Woolrich, Big Indian was exclusively a workwear company, producing primarily in chambray. Their popularity peaked in the mid 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″
Neck: 15″

 photo IMG_0129.jpg

 photo IMG_0136.jpg

 photo IMG_0132.jpg

 photo IMG_0133.jpg

 photo IMG_0134.jpg

 photo IMG_0130.jpg

 photo IMG_0137.jpg

 photo IMG_0131.jpg

 photo 19242.jpg

 photo 1924-1.jpg

 photo 19241.jpg

 photo 1941.jpg

 photo 1940s.jpg

Mid 1930s Woolrich Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204853617
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1930s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a green border and the text “All Wool” was used briefly, from about 1935-1937. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. The coat has the early style of United Carr snaps with a meander pattern on them. During WWII, Woolrich switched briefly to plain-topped ones, then to ones branded with their company name for the 1940s and 1950s.

The coat has a large, rounded collar with a buttoned throat latch. It has covered buttons save for the top. All the pockets have snaps. The vertical pockets on the front pass through to the internal game pouch, which can also be accessed from the rear. The coat has a full mustard colored lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 29″

 photo IMG_0173.jpg

 photo IMG_0174.jpg

 photo IMG_0175.jpg

 photo IMG_0180.jpg

 photo IMG_0181.jpg

 photo IMG_0183.jpg

 photo IMG_0184.jpg

 photo IMG_0186.jpg

 photo IMG_0187.jpg

 photo IMG_0188.jpg

 photo guide.jpg

 photo 193401.jpeg

 photo 193301.jpeg