1920s leather lined shawl collar coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281406909215
This vintage coat was made in the 1920s. It is a shawl collared mackinaw style, with a sheepskin collar. The coat is belted with an early style buttoned belt. It has handwarmer pockets on the chest and flapped cargo pockets on the hips. The coat is leather-lined in the body and sleeves for windproofing. Prior to the adoption of leather as a common exterior material for coats in the 1920s, it was popular as a lining material for outdoorsy garments like this one.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 43″

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1930s Red Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281406858780
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s from Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets. It is a classic double breasted mackinaw cut. At some point, the coat was fully lined, but where it is coming away, you can see the taped seams and hanger loop which give away the original unlined construction, which was typical on blanket mackinaws of the era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s Red Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281399895994
This vintage coat was made c. 1937 from Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets. The coat is a classic late 1930s double breasted mackinaw cut, with flapped patch cargo pockets and slash handwarmers with arrow reinforcement stitching. The back has a scalloped yoke and pleated back. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. Inside are two different styles of Hudson’s Bay label, which help with the dating.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

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1930s – 1940s Hercules shawl collared leather coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547750220
This vintage coat was made for Sears in the 1940s and was sold under their Hercules workwear label. The coat is made of black front quarter horsehide with a brown mouton collar. It is double breasted, with a shawl collar, handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, square yokes front and back and buttoned adjuster belts on the cuffs. The coat has a quilted cotton lining, lighter in weight than the typical sheepskin lining found in this style coat. Sleeve linings are purple, and have knitted cuffs to keep the wind out. The Hercules label is of the style used in the 1940s, however the last time I can find this model in any Sears catalog is in the Fall 1940 edition. This style of double breasted, shawl collared, hip length leather coat was popular in the 1920s and 1930s and changed very little through its production run. By WWII, this style coat would have been considered old fashioned and was replaced by zip-front sheeplined surcoat style jackets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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1940s Penney’s Belt Back Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281321564485
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s, and was sold by Penney’s. It is made of plaid wool- 65% reprocessed and 35% new. The use of reprocessed wool like this was common on work coats of the period. It is double breasted, with handwarmers on the chest and flapped cargo pockets. It has a belted back. The coat is lined in plaid cotton. It has seen heavy wear and usage, with wear, damage and repairs throughout much of the coat. The collar has been altered with an additional buttonhole and button to securely cinch the coat up in cold working conditions.

Tagged size: 46
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281318812696
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Orillia, Ontario in the 1920s or 1930s by the Carss Mackinaw company. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30-1/2″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

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1950 JC Higgins hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281304264630
This vintage coat was made in the early 1950s for Sears. It was sold under the JC Higgins label. It is made from heavy red and black plaid mackinaw cloth. There are handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets. There is a game pouch on the back. The coat is lined in a different plaid, with rayon linings in the sleeves. This model can be seen in the page from the 1950 Sears catalog below. This model goes back with few changes to the 1930s, but earlier models had patch cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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1930s Brewster Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281303524987
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Camden, Maine by the J.A. Brewster company. The company was founded in the 19th century by Jarvis Adelbert Brewster. The company produced high quality outerwear for the harsh Maine winters, with locations in Camden and Freeport Maine. The LL Bean flagship store would later be built at the site of Brewster’s Freeport location. Brewster produced the first run of red wool outdoorsman’s shirts for the Boy Scouts in the 1940s.

This coat was made in the late 1930s. The style is pure function, with an oversized collar to block out harsh winter winds. A throat latch / chinstrap makes sure it stays snug when up. The coat is double breasted, with handwarmer pockets on the chest and patch pockets on the hips. As was the style up through the 1930s, this coat is unlined. To make up for the lack of lining and still retain warmth, these early coats were made of super thick wool. After WWII, when lighter weight coats began to be more popular, quilted linings made up for the lower quality of the shell. This one has some of the thickest wool I’ve seen on this type of coat. The tag position is consistent with the dating- later coats by this maker generally had the tag on the inside by the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (collar to hem): 30″

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1930s – 1940s Hercules sheeplined work vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271418501090
This vintage work vest was sold by Sears under their Hercules workwear label in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It predates the (R) on the label which would come after WWII. It has a high necked cut favored by work vests due to the greater warmth and protection it offered. The vest has two pockets and a full sheepskin lining. Construction and materials are similar to the shawl collared sheepskin mackinaws sold by Hercules at the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Length: 22″

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1930s m1926 army mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281272498743
This vintage mackinaw was made in the 1930s for the US Army. This coat is lined with Earl-Glo rayon, a material which hit the market in 1927. This label is consistent with the ones used by Earl-Glo in the early 1930s. These pre-war mackinaws are much rarer than their WWII issued counterparts, and were worn as part of the work uniform by the Civilian Conservation Corps.
The coat is unlined, a defining feature of the pre-war pattern. This is also typical of the civilian work mackinaws from which this design descended. The small lining panel at the collar and the seam tape is made of the aforementioned Earl-Glo rayon. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar. It has a buttoned belt and buttoned adjuster tabs on the sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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