1930s Allen Stockman suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400949877547
This vintage suit was made in the 1930s in Denver Colorado by Allen Brand, maker of stockman’s garments. It is made of heavyweight mackinaw wool, with a waist length jacket. The jacket is button front, with a double button waistband and buttoned side adjusters. The pants are flat front, button fly, cuffless, and have western style belt loops. As was typical in this era of workwear and outerwear made from materials like this, the jacket and pants are unlined. The jacket has a honorable discharge “ruptured duck” pin in one lapel and an American Legion pin in the other. When I bought this suit, I was told that it was worn home after WWII by its original owner, and stored unworn since 1946.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

Waist (side to side): 16″ (doubled = 32″)
Outseam: 40-1/2″
Inseam: 30-1/2″
Rise: 10″

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WWII Alpaca Pile shawl collar coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400937333934
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s, and is an early USN deck coat. It takes its style from earlier sheepskin lined shawl collar box coats, but has an alpaca pile collar and lining, as well as a waterproof layer between the outer canvas and the inner lining. The pockets have leather reinforcements and there are leather loops instead of buttonholes, typical of this style.

Tagged size: 48
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 33″

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1942 Officer’s short overcoat mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271870719570
This vintage mackinaw was made to 1942 specifications, and was probably made in 1943. The official term was, Overcoat, Wool, Doeskin O.D. Officers Short Style. This was a successor to the shawl collar overcoats issued from the 1920s-early 1940s. I have one of those in a separate listing. The coat is double breasted, with flapped cargo pockets and epaulettes. It is fully lined.

Tagged size: 36
Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31-1/2″

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1940s WWII Albert Turner Shawl Collar mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271870714039
This vintage coat was made in late 1941 or early 1942 by Albert Turner, Inc. to 1941 specs for the officer’s short mackinaw coat. It is a size 36 R and has a shawl collar, epaulettes, flapped patch pockets, a six button double breasted front, and a buttoned belt. The coat is fully lined.

Tagged size: 36R
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 32-1/2″

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1930s Guiterman Brothers Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271821794567
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s in St Paul, Minnesota by Guiterman Brothers, who at that point were owned by Gordon and Ferguson. The coat is tailored from red Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket material, and bears the label used by them in this 1930s timeframe. The Guiterman Brothers label has been partially worn away, but Guiterman is partially legible, as is the GB crest. The coat is double breasted, with points showing, and the black portion of the blanket used as contrast for the collar.

A bit about Guiterman Bros, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”
Guiterman Brothers was founded in 1883 and incorporated in 1904. They began using the Summit “Town & Country” name in 1904. In the early 1910s, Guiterman Brothers pioneered the attached soft collared shirt. They also called it the Summit. The company had a plant at 352 Silbey Street, St. Paul, MN, which still stands. They enjoyed prosperity during the 1910s, riding the Mackinaw boom of 1915. They were supposedly the first company to coin the name “windbreaker”. As shown above, their “Town and Country” Coats and vests shared the distinctive double snap Knit-Nek. During WWI, Guiterman Bros. produced flying coats for US aviators. In 1928-1929, the company was purchased by Gordon and Ferguson.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled – 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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1940s C.C. Filson cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644238181
This vintage jacket was union made in Seattle Washington by the C.C. Filson Company. It is made of black and white buffalo plaid in their classic cruiser pattern. It has four main pockets, with side access to the game pouch, and two sub-pockets, one slotted and the other for a watch or cigarettes. The coat is double layered wool for the game pouch. This jacket features the early style diamond label, and early style United Carr snaps, with the printed “C.C. Filson Co Manufacturers Seattle” design, before they switched over to the later metal topped version with their name cast in. The cuffs have at some point been reinforced or lengthened with black leather, and there is a patch on the sleeve.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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1920s red Hudson’s Bay point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281636805140
This vintage coat was made in the 1920s by the Hudson’s Bay company. It is made of red HBC point blanket material, in a classic double breasted mackinaw cut. The points are located on the side seam and the black portion of the blanket has been used for contrast on the belt loops. The coat is, as was typical of mackinaws of this period, unlined. The label is a rare early variant, used up to the mid 1920s, when it was amended with registration numbers, as is seen on another, slightly later HBC mackinaw I’m currently selling. For a full rundown of the HBC labels used on these coats, please look at the chart I produced below.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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