1930s Red Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281399895994
This vintage coat was made c. 1937 from Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets. The coat is a classic late 1930s double breasted mackinaw cut, with flapped patch cargo pockets and slash handwarmers with arrow reinforcement stitching. The back has a scalloped yoke and pleated back. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. Inside are two different styles of Hudson’s Bay label, which help with the dating.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

 photo IMG_0001-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0002-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0003-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0004-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0005-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0006.jpg

 photo IMG_0007-1.jpg

1930s – 1940s Hercules shawl collared leather coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547750220
This vintage coat was made for Sears in the 1940s and was sold under their Hercules workwear label. The coat is made of black front quarter horsehide with a brown mouton collar. It is double breasted, with a shawl collar, handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, square yokes front and back and buttoned adjuster belts on the cuffs. The coat has a quilted cotton lining, lighter in weight than the typical sheepskin lining found in this style coat. Sleeve linings are purple, and have knitted cuffs to keep the wind out. The Hercules label is of the style used in the 1940s, however the last time I can find this model in any Sears catalog is in the Fall 1940 edition. This style of double breasted, shawl collared, hip length leather coat was popular in the 1920s and 1930s and changed very little through its production run. By WWII, this style coat would have been considered old fashioned and was replaced by zip-front sheeplined surcoat style jackets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

 photo IMG_0020-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0021-7.jpg

 photo IMG_0022-5.jpg

 photo IMG_0026-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0027-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0028-5.jpg

 photo IMG_0030-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0032-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0033-3.jpg

 photo 1939.jpg

 photo 1940-Copy.jpg

1940s Penney’s Belt Back Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281321564485
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s, and was sold by Penney’s. It is made of plaid wool- 65% reprocessed and 35% new. The use of reprocessed wool like this was common on work coats of the period. It is double breasted, with handwarmers on the chest and flapped cargo pockets. It has a belted back. The coat is lined in plaid cotton. It has seen heavy wear and usage, with wear, damage and repairs throughout much of the coat. The collar has been altered with an additional buttonhole and button to securely cinch the coat up in cold working conditions.

Tagged size: 46
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

 photo IMG_0202.jpg

 photo IMG_0203.jpg

 photo IMG_0204.jpg

 photo IMG_0208.jpg

 photo IMG_0209.jpg

 photo IMG_0207.jpg

 photo IMG_0206.jpg

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281318812696
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Orillia, Ontario in the 1920s or 1930s by the Carss Mackinaw company. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30-1/2″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

 photo IMG_0083.jpg

 photo IMG_0085.jpg

 photo IMG_0087.jpg

 photo IMG_0088.jpg

 photo IMG_0090.jpg

 photo IMG_0093.jpg

 photo IMG_0092.jpg

 photo IMG_0086.jpg

1950 JC Higgins hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281304264630
This vintage coat was made in the early 1950s for Sears. It was sold under the JC Higgins label. It is made from heavy red and black plaid mackinaw cloth. There are handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets. There is a game pouch on the back. The coat is lined in a different plaid, with rayon linings in the sleeves. This model can be seen in the page from the 1950 Sears catalog below. This model goes back with few changes to the 1930s, but earlier models had patch cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

 photo IMG_0289.jpg

 photo IMG_0290.jpg

 photo IMG_0291-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0292.jpg

 photo IMG_0293.jpg

 photo IMG_0294.jpg

 photo 195001-4.jpg

1930s Brewster Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281303524987
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Camden, Maine by the J.A. Brewster company. The company was founded in the 19th century by Jarvis Adelbert Brewster. The company produced high quality outerwear for the harsh Maine winters, with locations in Camden and Freeport Maine. The LL Bean flagship store would later be built at the site of Brewster’s Freeport location. Brewster produced the first run of red wool outdoorsman’s shirts for the Boy Scouts in the 1940s.

This coat was made in the late 1930s. The style is pure function, with an oversized collar to block out harsh winter winds. A throat latch / chinstrap makes sure it stays snug when up. The coat is double breasted, with handwarmer pockets on the chest and patch pockets on the hips. As was the style up through the 1930s, this coat is unlined. To make up for the lack of lining and still retain warmth, these early coats were made of super thick wool. After WWII, when lighter weight coats began to be more popular, quilted linings made up for the lower quality of the shell. This one has some of the thickest wool I’ve seen on this type of coat. The tag position is consistent with the dating- later coats by this maker generally had the tag on the inside by the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (collar to hem): 30″

 photo IMG_0387.jpg

 photo IMG_0392.jpg

 photo IMG_0388.jpg

 photo IMG_0390.jpg

 photo IMG_0391.jpg

 photo IMG_0070.jpg

 photo IMG_0071.jpg

1930s – 1940s Hercules sheeplined work vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271418501090
This vintage work vest was sold by Sears under their Hercules workwear label in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It predates the (R) on the label which would come after WWII. It has a high necked cut favored by work vests due to the greater warmth and protection it offered. The vest has two pockets and a full sheepskin lining. Construction and materials are similar to the shawl collared sheepskin mackinaws sold by Hercules at the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Length: 22″

 photo IMG_0106.jpg

 photo IMG_0109.jpg

 photo IMG_0114.jpg

 photo IMG_0112.jpg

 photo IMG_0113.jpg

 photo IMG_0117.jpg

 photo IMG_0118.jpg

1930s m1926 army mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281272498743
This vintage mackinaw was made in the 1930s for the US Army. This coat is lined with Earl-Glo rayon, a material which hit the market in 1927. This label is consistent with the ones used by Earl-Glo in the early 1930s. These pre-war mackinaws are much rarer than their WWII issued counterparts, and were worn as part of the work uniform by the Civilian Conservation Corps.
The coat is unlined, a defining feature of the pre-war pattern. This is also typical of the civilian work mackinaws from which this design descended. The small lining panel at the collar and the seam tape is made of the aforementioned Earl-Glo rayon. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar. It has a buttoned belt and buttoned adjuster tabs on the sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

 photo IMG_1496.jpg

 photo IMG_1497.jpg

 photo IMG_1498.jpg

 photo IMG_1499.jpg

 photo IMG_1500.jpg

 photo IMG_1501.jpg

 photo IMG_1505.jpg

 photo IMG_1510.jpg

 photo IMG_1511.jpg

 photo IMG_1512.jpg

 photo earlglorayon.jpg

1960s Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271404687198
This vintage coat was made in the early 1960s by the Hudson’s Bay Company from their iconic multi-stripe point blankets. It is their “Olympic” model, a belted, double breasted style with tab adjusters at the wrists, handwarmer pockets at the chest and patch pockets on the hips. The style was made, essentially unchanged, since the 1920s. Whereas some blanket mackinaws of this style were made using the Hudson’s Bay fabric by other manufacturers, this one was made and sold by Hudson’s Bay themselves. This is the same style and era as was worn by the Canadian Olympic team at the 1964 Innsbruck Winter Olympic games. The stripes on this one are inverted from what most are – usually you see the indigo stripe on the bottom. However, even looking at the photos of the Canadian Olympic team all wearing matching versions of this coat, a percentage have this rarer flipped design. The position of the stripes relative to the features of the coats differ in nearly every coat in those pictures as well. I suppose each cutter had their own way of positioning the pattern. The coat is fully lined, which, along with the particular style of label, distinguish it from earlier manufacture coats.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

 photo IMG_7538.jpg

 photo IMG_7539.jpg

 photo IMG_7540.jpg

 photo IMG_7542.jpg

 photo IMG_7543.jpg

 photo IMG_7544.jpg

 photo IMG_7545.jpg

1941 Jacob Siegel Co. Army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281268073559
This vintage Officer’s Short Overcoat / Shawl Collar Mackinaw was made in 1941 by the Jacob Siegel Company under contract for the US Army. This style coat was a direct descendant of the shawl collar workwear mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s, and from the m-1926 mackinaw worn by the Army and the Civilian Conservation Corps before the war. It is a double breasted style, with a broad shawl collar, epaulettes, and a belted waist. The coat is fully lined with an interior breast pocket. There are stitch marks on the sleeves from a six pointed star patch and a round patch.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

 photo IMG_0189.jpg

 photo IMG_0190.jpg

 photo IMG_0192.jpg

 photo IMG_0193.jpg

 photo IMG_0194.jpg

 photo IMG_0196.jpg

 photo IMG_0198.jpg