Black Bear Brand cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379428091
This vintage cruiser jacket was made in the 1930s by Black Bear Brand, a high-end outdoor outfitter and workwear manufacturer from Seattle, Washington. The jacket has a four pocket front, an internal game pocket with rear access and an inside pocket. In the pocket is a faded United Garment Workers of America union label.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

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1950s Bullseye Bill fishing jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337372551
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold under the “Bullseye Bill” label. I have had several of these jackets, dating from the 1930s-1950s, and other than the hardware and labels, the overall design barely changed. This one has a “Wiz” zipper front, where as earlier models generally had button fronts. There are pockets on both of the arms, wraparound pockets, a large rear game pocket, a breast pocket, fly rod loop and a sheepskin patch for flies. There is a D-ring on the back of the jacket to attach further gear to, and two internal patch pockets Most people who wear these as streetwear remove the fly pad. This one is made of light, summer weight canvas.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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Similar in cut to this “Snag Pruf” jacket

1920s high-neck buckle-back hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271491035755
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. It is made from canvas, with thirty four closed bottomed shotgun shell loops. It has a high necked closure to keep out the elements, similar to the Browns Beach vests of the period, which were also designed for hunting. The vest has a buckle back. An ink-stamped canvas tag identifies this as a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Length: 19-1/2″

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Merrill Woolens plaid jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271489386897
This vintage jacket was made in the 1940s by Merrill Woolens of Merrill, Wisconsin. With its square bottom, boxy cut, and coat style collar, the cut is reminiscent of a Hollywood jacket. The plaid fabric and zipper breast pocket put it in a woodsier category altogether.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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1920s Duxbak hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271482181910
This vintage canvas hunting jacket was made in the 1920s by Duxbak. It is their early style of hunting coat, introduced in the first decade of the 20th century, with double hip pockets, and a double breast pocket. For both, the double pockets share a single flap. This jacket has the early version of what would later become the “half-moon” pocket, a pass through on the front of the coat to the interior game pocket. The jacket is a double thickness. The pockets have been lined/patched with selvedge salt and pepper cotton. Underarms are double-panel gusseted and have ventilation grommets. There is a calendar in the pocket dated 1939, presumably the last time this coat was worn in earnest. With the amount of wear put on it, its safe to say it dates from some time before that. The style of label and style of the coat confirm a 1920s date of manufacture.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 25-1/2″ (51″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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1920s Red Head Hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271478366338
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s by the Red Head Brand, a premier maker of hunting garments at the time. It is an early style, high buttoning cut, with a six button front. It has canvas, closed bottomed shotgun shell loops, another hallmark of earlier manufacture hunting vests. There are loops for 38 shotgun shells on the front, and loops for another 23 on the back.
This has the earliest Red Head brand label I have yet to see. It is significantly larger than later labels, with a much more detailed duck. It reads Trade Mark Registered at the top, while labels from the 1930s and early 1940s read , “reg. us. pat. off”, and ones from the mid-late 1940s had the (R) symbol.

Chest (pit to pit):19″ (doubled = 38″)

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1920s shotgun shell canvas hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469007778
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. It is made of brown canvas, with a five button front. There is a buttonhole at the back of the neckline, which I have not seen before on other vests. I wonder if it was there to attach something to the vest (or the vest to something else, like a jacket), or if it was there to hang the vest by? The vest has closed bottomed, canvas shotgun shell loops, which are typical of these early manufacture vests. At some point the vest was taken in, then let back out. The front buttons have been moved slightly from their original position to make the vest a smidge larger. Since garments like this were purely utilitarian, it wouldn’t be uncommon for them to be passed down from one generation to the next. I wonder if these modifications were made as the original owner lost and put on weight, or if they were done for a different owner?

Chest (pit to pit): 18-1/2″ (doubled = 37″)
Length: 19-1/2″

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1930s canvas hunting cap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469093705
This vintage canvas hunting cap was made in the 1930s. This one has seen some heavy use, with fading to the canvas. It has internal earflaps, and a back brim which can flip down to protect your neck in the rain.
Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 2-1/2″ front, 2-1/4″ back

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1940s hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271449021284
This vintage hunting coat is made from brown canvas, with a brown corduroy collar. It has large cargo pockets with shotgun shell loops inside, reinforced shoulders and an internal buttoned game pouch. It is half-lined with plaid flannel.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

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