Early 1930s J C Penney sheeplined shawl collar coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271576023683
This vintage sheeplined coat was made in the early 1930s and was sold by the JC Penney Co. It has a nice early Penney’s label. It has a green cotton shell, with leather reinforced handwarmer and cargo pockets. As is typical of the style, it has loops instead of buttonholes. The coat is lined with sheepskin and has a sheepskin collar. Sleeves are blanket lined and there are knit storm cuffs. It appears that the sleeves were shortened at some point, exposing these cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35-1/2″

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1964 Warner Brothers Cavalry Shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271576032886
This vintage cavalry shirt was made in the 1950s-early 1960s as a film costume for Warner Brothers westerns. The shirt has a strap going from the rear tail to buttons on the front, presumably to keep it tucked in while doing stunts, like the “beaver tails” on old wetsuits or football jerseys. The original brass buttons were removed, as were the shoulder boards, although the mounting hardware and reinforcement for those remains. It was almost definitely used in 1964’s big budget western, “A Distant Trumpet”, which starred Troy Donahue, Suzanne Pleshette and Diane McBain. The shirts in that film are recognizable by their high-cut bibs and full button placket, as opposed to the pullovers favored by the wardrobe departments on other cavalry movies like the John Ford / John Wayne cavalry trilogy.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled – 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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1930s Red Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281399895994
This vintage coat was made c. 1937 from Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets. The coat is a classic late 1930s double breasted mackinaw cut, with flapped patch cargo pockets and slash handwarmers with arrow reinforcement stitching. The back has a scalloped yoke and pleated back. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. Inside are two different styles of Hudson’s Bay label, which help with the dating.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

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1930s Lampelt shawl collared horsehide coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271559664741
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s and was sold in Boston by Lampelt sportswear, a manufacturer or sheeplined leather coats such as this and of grizzly jackets. The coat is made of horsehide leather, is double breasted, with a broad sheepskin shawl collar, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and a belt. The back has a square cut yoke. There are button adjuster tabs on the sleeves. Inside, the jacket has a sheepskin lining, with blanket lined sleeves and brown corduroy trim. These coats were popular pre-war with motorcycle riders and as workwear in the fall and winter. The leather is nicely supple on this example.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″, roughly a size 36)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32-1/2″

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1930s – 1940s Hercules shawl collared leather coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547750220
This vintage coat was made for Sears in the 1940s and was sold under their Hercules workwear label. The coat is made of black front quarter horsehide with a brown mouton collar. It is double breasted, with a shawl collar, handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, square yokes front and back and buttoned adjuster belts on the cuffs. The coat has a quilted cotton lining, lighter in weight than the typical sheepskin lining found in this style coat. Sleeve linings are purple, and have knitted cuffs to keep the wind out. The Hercules label is of the style used in the 1940s, however the last time I can find this model in any Sears catalog is in the Fall 1940 edition. This style of double breasted, shawl collared, hip length leather coat was popular in the 1920s and 1930s and changed very little through its production run. By WWII, this style coat would have been considered old fashioned and was replaced by zip-front sheeplined surcoat style jackets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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Monarch horsehide barnstormer leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271493775559
This vintage jacket was made by Monarch Mfg. of Milwaukee WI in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It is a belted, double breasted style. This has since come to be known among collectors as a barnstormer style, named after the aviators of the 1920s who wore similar styles. The jacket is made of russet horsehide, with a 3×6 double breasted front. There are handwarmer pockets (known originally as “muff” pockets), as well as flapped cargo pockets. These have deeply scalloped pocket flaps. The jacket is lined with blanket wool in the body, with quilted shoulders and sleeves. The U shaped seam between the two lining materials is a detail I have only seen on other Monarch jackets. The label is of a style used in the 1930s through about the end of WWII. The leather has some really incredible grain, highlighted by decades of usage. The treatment of the seams is unusual. Whereas most jackets, leather or otherwise, will have a seam at the edge of the jacket, or on the edge of the lapels, this one minimizes them by folding the leather around to form the front and back panel.

A bit about Monarch, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”:
The Monarch Manufacturing Company was founded in 1892 by Paul Asch. In 1917, they relocated to a new factory, located at 246 East Chicago St., Milwaukee, WI. They built at least four more factories in Milwaukee, employing over a thousand workers by 1922. Throughout the life of the company, they specialized in leather, sheepskin and fabric outerwear for men and boys. They produced A-2 contracts during WWII.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 30″

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1940s Penney’s Belt Back Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281321564485
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s, and was sold by Penney’s. It is made of plaid wool- 65% reprocessed and 35% new. The use of reprocessed wool like this was common on work coats of the period. It is double breasted, with handwarmers on the chest and flapped cargo pockets. It has a belted back. The coat is lined in plaid cotton. It has seen heavy wear and usage, with wear, damage and repairs throughout much of the coat. The collar has been altered with an additional buttonhole and button to securely cinch the coat up in cold working conditions.

Tagged size: 46
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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