1920s Duxbak PakBak canvas hunting jacket

This vintage hunting jacket was made in the late 1920s-early 1930s by the Utica Duxbak Corp, makers of Rain Proof Sportsman’s Clothing. This is their Pakbak model, which has a large, expandable game pouch, bearing a Feb 1926 patent. The jacket is made of canvas, with a corduroy collar. It has an early style front entry game pouch.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

 photo edit duxbak.jpg

 photo DSCF1531.jpg

 photo DSCF1532.jpg

 photo DSCF1533.jpg

 photo DSCF1535.jpg

 photo DSCF1569.jpg

 photo DSCF1573.jpg

1940s Penney’s Sportclad hunting coat

This vintage hunting jacket was made for Penney’s under their Sportclad label in the 1940s. It has a square hole slider, Talon marked U shaped stopbox Talon zipper, handwarmer pockets, snapped cargo pockets and a rear game pouch. It is lined in a contrast wool plaid.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-1/4″

 photo edit sportclad.jpg

 photo DSCF1518.jpg

 photo DSCF1519.jpg

 photo DSCF1520.jpg

 photo DSCF1522.jpg

WWII Swiss army coat

This vintage jacket was made for the Swiss army. It is made of sage gray/green wool, with a double breasted cut, belted back and Swiss cross buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

 photo edit swiss.jpg

 photo DSCF1523.jpg

 photo DSCF1524.jpg

 photo DSCF1525.jpg

 photo DSCF1526.jpg

1910s-1920s shawl collar mackinaw

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1910s-1920s. It is made from a blue, green, red and gray plaid mackinaw wool, in a double breasted cut, with a broad shawl collar, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and belt loops. As was typical for these early production mackinaws, this one is unlined. The particular detailing found on this example, in combination with the unusual plaid are hallmarks of an earlier mackinaw. More vibrant color schemes were generally more popular earlier on, losing ground by the later 1920s to more sedate patterns, while the shawl collar, save for the horsehide trimmed railroad versions, generally fell out of favor by the early 1930s on double breasted mackinaws.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

Mackinaw fabric, as well as mackinaw coats, trace their name back to blankets used in the fur trade by the Mackinaw Fur Company, headquartered at Fort Mackinac. As with the point blankets made by the Hudson’s Bay Company, Mackinaw blankets were made in an array of bright colors and garish patterns. Originally favored by native Americans and fur traders in the area, the coats gained near immediate acceptance among lumberjacks in that area’s logging industry. Whether cut from Mackinaw blankets, Hudson’s Bay Blankets, or from Pendleton Blankets, these coats shared several important features. In a time when men in cities wore overcoats nearly exclusively in cold weather, these coats were cut short, generally with a length of 35 or 36 inches, to allow for freedom of movement. The short cut allowed for extremely heavyweight, warm fabric without the weight associated with a long coat. The bright colors and loud patterns of the blankets favored among these loggers soon found their way throughout the country, first as souvenirs, later as part of nationwide marketing.
Though lumberjacks were primarily of French-Canadian or Scottish-Canadian ancestry, mackinaw cloth owes its origins to Norwegian immigrants. The original cloth was homepun from wool from northern sheep. The early fabric was relatively coarse, and heavyweight, around 40oz. After it was woven, was “stumpfed”, or danced upon with soap and water with wooden shoes, usually accompanied by music and celebration. This process felted the fabric, shrinking it dramatically, and making it thicker, denser, warmer, and resistant to rain and further shrinkage. Commercially produced mackinaw cloth later mimicked this process mechanically. After weaving, the fabric was shrunk and felted (the stumpfing or fulling process) , then napped to give it a thick and fluffy texture, further increasing its insulation value.
In 1912, the FA Patrick company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made.
The Mackinaw was re-branded once again, marketed to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, shawl collar Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees.

 photo edit mackinaw.jpg

 photo DSCF1511.jpg

 photo DSCF1512.jpg

 photo DSCF1513.jpg

 photo DSCF1514.jpg

 photo DSCF1515.jpg

 photo DSCF1516.jpg

 photo DSCF1517.jpg

 photo fabricswatches.jpg

1920s-1930s Carss Mackinaw

This vintage coat was made in Ontario, Canada in the 1920s- mid 1930s by Carss Mackinaw. It is made from a distinctive plaid, with caped shoulders, four flapped, buttoned patch pockets, a belted back and a rolled collar. As was typical of work mackinaws of this early period, this one is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

 photo edit carss.jpg

 photo DSCF1020.jpg

 photo DSCF1021.jpg

 photo DSCF1022.jpg

 photo DSCF1023.jpg

 photo DSCF1024.jpg

1940s Woolrich mackinaw with Talon Zipper front

This vintage coat was made c.1943 by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, PA. It is a size 44, and a relatively rare style, with a bell-shaped Talon zipper with sunburst stop-box. It has a broad, rounded collar, breast pockets with the plain snaps used by Woolrich during WWII and handwarmer pockets. It has low slung side adjuster belts and rear entry game pouch.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26-1/2″

 photo edit woolrich.jpg

 photo DSCF1383.jpg

 photo DSCF1384.jpg

 photo DSCF1389.jpg

 photo DSCF1386.jpg

 photo DSCF1387.jpg

 photo DSCF1390.jpg

WWII Coast Guard jacket

This vintage coat was made during WWII. It is made from black canvas, and is single breasted with flapped pockets, and a belted back. It is stenciled with the original owners name inside.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 44-1/2″

 photo edit coast guard.jpg

 photo DSCF1414.jpg

 photo DSCF1415.jpg

 photo DSCF1416.jpg

 photo DSCF1417.jpg

 photo DSCF1418.jpg