1950s Lockshire gabardine overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472843346
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1950s by Lockshire of Minneapolis, Minnesota. It is single breasted, with notch lapels. It has a vented back and slash handwarmer pockets. It is half-lined, as was customary at that point. The jacket has a fantastic label and a 1949 union tag. With a 48″ chest, this will best fit someone who wears a size 42 suit.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 46-1/2″

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1950s Frankoat tweed Chesterfield overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281470030913
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s by Frank Bros under the Frankoat label. It was sold in Vincennes, Indiana by Albert’s, Inc. It is made of a gray tweed wool, with a velvet collar to give it that Chesterfield overcoat style. By the way it wraps from the front to the back of the collar, my guess would be that the velvet collar was added by a tailor after the coat’s initial manufacture. The coat has a plain back and cuffed sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 45″

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Brooks Brothers Chesterfield Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627538100
This vintage Chesterfield overcoat was made in the 1940s for Brooks Brothers. It is made of high quality wool, with a fly front, peak lapels and a velvet collar. It is fully lined, with two inside pockets. According to the hanger chain, it was originally owned by a Jacques Sammes.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 42″

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1940s Maine Guide by Congress Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617873047
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background).

The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. There were two major waves of Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw popularity, one in the mid 1930s and one immediately after WWII. The ones from the 1940s period to which this one belongs were generally beltless and single breasted, whereas this fits the traditional mackinaw mold of the 1920s and 1930s, but with a bit more flair. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets than those found on coats dating from the 1950s-present, after manufacturing was switched from England to Canada. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.

This coat is double breasted and belted, and has stylish peak lapels and a rounded collar which I have only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat was originally unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns. At some point a lining was added to the jacket, but not finished on the bottom edge. When you lift this later lining, you can see the original tags from the Hudson’s Bay Company and from Maine Guide, as well as the taped seams that indicate its original unlined construction. The coat was originally sold by Hudson’s Sport Store of Detroit.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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Here’s a shot of a green version of this same maker and model which I sold earlier in the year, showing what the lining/construction is like without the later lining overlay  photo green.jpg

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Eddie Bauer Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617906330
This jacket was sold by Eddie Bauer. It is made from Indian Blanket style wool fabric- from the texture and particular pattern, I would guess made by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. The jacket has a leather collar and corozo buttons. It is fully lined. Despite being labeled a size Medium, with a 54″ chest, this would best fit someone who wears a size 48 jacket.

Tagged size: Medium
Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s Rogers Peet chesterfield overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271590601506
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s by high-end clothier Rogers Peet. The coat was purchased at their Boston location, 104 Tremont Street, by an A. Leighton of 10 Chauncy Street, Cambridge, Massachusetts. He wore the coat until 1948, evidenced by a postal insurance form dated February 18th, 1948 and a checking deposit slip dated February 24, 1948, both found in the breast pocket and included with the coat. The coat is about as classic as they come. It is a chesterfield, with a three button fly front (rolled to the second button) and a velvet collar. It is made of some of the finest, densest wool I have felt. Absolutely the quality you would expect from Rogers Peet. It has flapped pockets and a vented back with two buttons to close the vent. The coat is luxuriantly fully lined.. There is a small button which allows the lapels to be buttoned up against the Boston winters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 42″

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1950s Western Roebucks jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281424935900
This vintage western jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold by Sears under the Roebuck’s label. Roebucks was, at the time, their house brand for westernwear- mostly jeans and denim jackets, but also fancier items like this. I have had several other jackets made by the same manufacturer (same factory labels, same cut and detailing), all sold under different store labels, so somewhere there was a factory producing these to be sold under house labels. The jacket is made of tweed and has peak lapels, a scalloped front yoke, pleated front and scalloped pocket flaps. The back has a fancy yoke and deep dual pleats. It is fully lined, and according to the tag, the model name was the Guardsman.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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