1930s – 1940s Hercules shawl collared leather coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547750220
This vintage coat was made for Sears in the 1940s and was sold under their Hercules workwear label. The coat is made of black front quarter horsehide with a brown mouton collar. It is double breasted, with a shawl collar, handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, square yokes front and back and buttoned adjuster belts on the cuffs. The coat has a quilted cotton lining, lighter in weight than the typical sheepskin lining found in this style coat. Sleeve linings are purple, and have knitted cuffs to keep the wind out. The Hercules label is of the style used in the 1940s, however the last time I can find this model in any Sears catalog is in the Fall 1940 edition. This style of double breasted, shawl collared, hip length leather coat was popular in the 1920s and 1930s and changed very little through its production run. By WWII, this style coat would have been considered old fashioned and was replaced by zip-front sheeplined surcoat style jackets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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1940s brown sanforized shorts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281385081330
These vintage cotton twill shorts were made in the 1940s. They have piped side seams, single pleats, an attached belt, front coin/key pocket and a single rear pocket. They are Sanforized and have a button fly.

Waist (side to side): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Outseam: 14-1/2″
Inseam: 3-1/2″

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Glen Isle two tone sweatervest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271548021785
This vintage sweatervest was made in Canada for Penmans and was sold under the Glen Isle Sportswear label. It has a brown and cream body with brown trim and back.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)

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1940s Pendleton half-belt cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379399140
This vintage half-belt jacket was made by the Pendleton Woolen Mills of Pendleton, Oregon and was tailored in California. It is a classic half-belt cossack jacket design, with a Talon zipper front, zipped breast pocket and slash handwarmer pockets. The side belt adjusters are mounted lower than the belt, in the manner of Hercules leather halfbelts of the mid to late 1930s. The style of Talon zipper, with the square hole in the puller and the Talon name on the stopbox place the date of manufacture of the jacket to just after WWII. The (R) symbol on the Pendleton label, combined with the zipper designs narrow it down to about 1947.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

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Late 1940s mouton collar bomber jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379406025
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s. It is made of brown leather with a brown mouton collar. It has slash handwarmer pockets and a zip chest pocket. The cuffs and waistband are knit wool. The chest zipper is an early style Talon and the main zipper is a spring loaded two-way post war Crown.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of knit waistband): 24″

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Late 1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379413806
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s- early 1950s. It is a surcoat length half-belt design with flapped cargo/side entry handwarmer pockets. The sleeves have scaloped cuffs with fancy buttons. The zippers are all Talon. The lining is shredded.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
shoulder to shoulder: 19″
sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509482877
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’40s-early 1950s and was sold by Abercrombie & Fitch, back in the days when it was an outfitter of the highest caliber. The jacket appears to have begun life all those years ago as russet brown, but has been worn and aged to the wonderful color it is now. The jacket is a cossack style, about as minimalist as they come. It has handwarmer pockets, a one piece back and side adjuster belts. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. The zip front does up with a Talon zipper, of the type which began production in the late ’40s and were the norm throughout the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349331760
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s. The style, with knit waistband and cuffs, and slash handwarmer pockets was popular after the war. It is made of full grain front quarter horsehide, with a mouton collar. The jacket is lined in alpaca and corduroy, with quilted sleeve linings. The zipper is a later replacement from a no-name maker, with non-matching stitching. The cuffs and knit waistband also appear to be replacements. The jacket has a one piece back with a straight shoulder yoke. The horsehide has wonderful grain accented by decades of use. I have seen this particular design of yellow and black horsehide label, and this style of lining on earlier button front barnstormer models, but not on a post-war bomber jacket style like this. The leather has wear and loss of finish, but is still solid and supple.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of cuff): 23″

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c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

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1940s Hart Schaffner & Marx single breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281347291603
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold by Moore, which had locations in San Francisco and Oakland, California. It is made of lightweight light-brown salt and pepper wool. It has a single breasted cut with a fly front, wide peak lapels, and button adjustment belts on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 42″

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