1930s belt back Hart Schaffner & Marx overcoat

This vintage overcoat was made between 1936 and 1938 by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold in Bozeman, Montana by Wagner Brothers. It is an extremely rare cut, single breasted, with a belted back. Usually on overcoats these belt-back treatments were reserved for double breasted models. The coat is gray with a subtle plaid. It is half-lined, as was common in the era. The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union tag is a rare 1936 variant, which narrows the dating down hugely, as it was replaced by a new tag design in 1939.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 45″

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1930s Sam Stark half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271680370513
This jacket was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s and was sold in Cheyenne, Wyoming by Sam Stark. The jacket is a waist length, button front half-belt cossack style, with handwarmer pockets and side adjuster belts. The original buttons probably would have been brown bakelite or corozo, but were replaced sometime in the 1940s with metal military Wyoming state seal buttons. The backs of these buttons are marked “Superior Quality”. The cuffs do up with snap-belt adjusters. Inside one of the pockets I found an empty pack of Kool cigarettes with a 1944 copyright and a series 120 Dewitt Clinton tax stamp, dating the pack to 1950, and also helping set a probable date for the last time this jacket was worn.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

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1930s capeskin belted leather jacket

This vintage leather jacket was made around 1937 from pig-grain textured russet capeskin leather. The jacket is single breasted and belted, with caramel colored corozo buttons and distinctive semi-raglan shoulders. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 27″

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1930s Woolrich 255 hunting mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281506560642
This vintage jacket was made in the mid to late 1930s by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, PA. This is the rare 255 model, with a double front yoke, handwarmers with D-pocket stitching and flapped cargo pockets. It has exposed buttons and a rear game pouch. The coat, in keeping with many early mackinaw coats, is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30″

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Ralph Lauren Suede Half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281501850469
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of brown suede leather in style heavily influenced by 1930s half-belt cossack work jackets. The jacket is zipper front, with a straight front yoke, and handwarmer pockets. The back is belted with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 52″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 46-48 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28″

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1930s H.W. Carter & Sons red and black point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670833049
This vintage jacket was made by H.W. Carter & Sons of Lebanon, New Hampshire in the mid 1930s. It is made of heavy red and black point blanket material, in a single breasted mackinaw style. Unusual for a point blanket coat, this example has a game pocket, which does up with two early Hookless-style Talon zippers. The coat has a zipper hood which snaps down into a collar. The hood zips open and closed with a Talon zipper, the design of which dates this jacket to c.1937. The coat bears a United Garment Workers of America union label, as well as a black and yellow tag identifying the material as water repellent and all wool. The jacket is fully lined in mustard colored cotton, similar to what Woolrich was using on their hunting coats in this period, especially in its use of a single patch breast pocket. The mackinaw has snap closure cargo pockets as well as handwarmers.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s Fifth Avenue Year Bonded double breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670853068
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s and was sold under the Fifth Avenue Year Bonded Clothes label. The coat is a 3×6 double breasted, with flapped pockets and a breast pocket. The back is belted, and the coat is half-lined, with a flannel underlayer to the lining. The coat is made from a heavy boucle wool, giving it a nice textural depth. I can find no wear to the coat, and the rear vent was never opened.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 47-1/2″

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