1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability. During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war. President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores. Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

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Lesco leather motorcycle jacket

This jacket was made in the 1970s by Lesco. It is made of black leather, in a classic motorcycle jacket style.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

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Lee Trevor white D-Pocket leather motorcycle jacket

This vintage jacket was made in France by Lee Trevor Genuine Outdoor Clothing. It is made of heavyweight leather in a bone color. It has a large D-Pocket map pocket, handwarmer pockets and a flapped breast pokets with grommets in the same style as badge holders on police jackets. There are zippers on the sleeves, an attached belt, and lace-up side adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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Skaggerac double breasted shawl collar leather mackinaw

This vintage jacket was made in New York by Skaggerac Sportswear in the 1950s. It is a heavy double breasted, shawl collar sheeplined model. It is made of heavyweight steerhide with a black mouton collar, a square front yoke, scalloped back yoke. The grain on the leather is incredible. Though the tag dates it to the 1950s, the style, materials, style of lining with corduroy hem, etc. are all consistent with coats of this style made in the 1930s. This style of coat had gone out of fashion for the most part by WWII. It has a custom order handwritten size tag, reading a size 50. With a 58″ chest, it’s even generous for that size.

Chest (pit to pit): 29″ (doubled = 58″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 24″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33-1/2″

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Cafe Racer vest

This vintage jacket was made in the 1970s, in a classic band collar two pocket cafe racer style. It has a two snap collar, with a two-way female snap that can snap the extension tab back when not in use. It has a wind flap, Serval zipper and bi-swing shoulders. At some point, the sleeves were removed, likely due to some kind of damage, along with the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

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1950s Harley Davidson Cycle Champ D-Pocket leather motorcycle jacket

This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold by Harley Davidson Motor Cycles. It is made of genuine Front Quarter Steerhide leather. The jacket has an asymmetrical motorcycle jacket cut, with a D pocket, zipped breast pocket, zipped side pockets, open zip cuffs and epaulettes. The ends of all the pockets are trimmed and reinforced with four nickel studs. That is doubled on the epaulettes. The jacket has a quilted lining, and Serval zippers throughout. It bears a 1949 Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union label of the variant used from 1949-1962. The jacket is a dark seal brown.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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Vanson Leathers bones chaps

These chaps were made by Vanson Leathers of Boston, MA. They are made of heavyweight cowhide with stitched leather bones. They have single piece legs with full length zippers, a seven snap front, and an adjustable lace up back. Vanson sizes their chaps by thigh size, these are tagged a 23″ thigh.

Minimum waist (side to side): 17″, doubled = 34″. Remember that this measurement should be taken overtop your pants, and that with the lace up back, these can adjust as large as needed.
Outseam: 41″

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