1950s Buco J-24 horsehide leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271935645735
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s in Detroit, Michigan by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company (Buco) out of horsehide. It is their J-24 D-Pocket model motorcycle jacket. From the style of stop box on the main zipper, with its wide ribs, but without the Talon name, this one was made between about 1952 and 1957. The jacket has a D-pocket map pocket with a rounded cornered cigarette pocket. It has zipped sleeves, snapped lapels, snapped belt loops for an external belt, bars on the epaulettes, zippered side storage, a handwarmer pocket, and bi-swing shoulders. At some point, it appears the original owner either broke the main zipper or gained weight, and added snaps, which are offset from the original zip position.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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Early 1930s cut down Cossack Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271934443374
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1930s, probably between about 1930 and 1934. This style, with the plain back, side panels with buckle adjusters, leather waistband and small patch pockets, was one of the first jacket styles to become popular following the invention of the separable bottomed zipper in 1930. The jacket has a buttoned throat latch / chinstrap, and while the zipper is a 1950s Conmar, replacing what would likely have been a double branded Hookless/Talon, the grommets from the original zip are still in place at the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 15″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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Swedish Leather tanker jacket reproduction

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400946560413
This vintage jacket was made in the 1980s France by Alvin York, heavily influenced by the eccentric design of the 1940s Swedish leather tanker jacket. There’s something interesting about a jacket being made in France, reproducing the style of a Swedish jacket of the 1940s, while using the name of Sgt. York, a WWI American war hero on the label. The jacket is made of heavyweight two-tone suede. Like the original, it has a band collar, an internal row of fasteners with a wide wrap which fastens by the side seam, and that oh so distinctive large map pocket right in the center of the chest. This version adds handwarmer pockets and trades out some of the fiddly buttons and fasteners of the original for simpler, and more practical given the material, snaps. Just like the originals, this one sports a generously oversized cut. While it’s a 1940s design, the whole package still looks futuristic today.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Waist (side to side): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

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1940s Grais Sportswear leather half-belt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400938380661
This vintage leather jacket was made by by Grais – Sportswear with Grace in the 1940s. It has a half-belt, pleated back, a surcoat length cut, a tunneled, elasiticized belt with a single button closure, a blacked out Talon of mid-late 1940s manufacture, and ring pull chain zippers on the dual breast pockets. The cargo pockets are flapped and there are buttons on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″

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Denver Colorado made custom deerskin leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271906309034
This vintage jacket was likely made in Denver, Colorado in the 1950s. It is made of deerskin leather, and has all the unusual details which I have only found on Denver based custom makers, like the trapezoidal reinforcement stitching at the base of the bi-swing shoulders, the button front, the slightly narrower than typical belt to the half-belt back, the style of pleats to the back, the flapped patch pockets, the extra long cuffs, the seam in the lining at the belt-line. This one doesn’t have a label, but A.T. Hendrick is one of the Denver makers which also exhibit all the eccentricities of this pattern. I have had other jackets of theirs from the late 1930s and 1930s. This one feels a bit more refined, a bit later, but still has the distinctive detailing held over from the patterns of the 1930s, modified with a bit of extra length, an additional breast pocket, and tweaks to the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-1/2″

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Californian leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271906298389
This vintage jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their Californian label.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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