1930s – 1940s Hercules shawl collared leather coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547750220
This vintage coat was made for Sears in the 1940s and was sold under their Hercules workwear label. The coat is made of black front quarter horsehide with a brown mouton collar. It is double breasted, with a shawl collar, handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, square yokes front and back and buttoned adjuster belts on the cuffs. The coat has a quilted cotton lining, lighter in weight than the typical sheepskin lining found in this style coat. Sleeve linings are purple, and have knitted cuffs to keep the wind out. The Hercules label is of the style used in the 1940s, however the last time I can find this model in any Sears catalog is in the Fall 1940 edition. This style of double breasted, shawl collared, hip length leather coat was popular in the 1920s and 1930s and changed very little through its production run. By WWII, this style coat would have been considered old fashioned and was replaced by zip-front sheeplined surcoat style jackets.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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G-1 leather flight jacket General Zipper

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547836293
This vintage leather jacket is a USN G-1 flight jacket. It has a half-belt, bi-swing back, knit cuffs and waistband, button closure patch pockets with a pencil slot and a button throat latch on the underside of the collar. The main zip is a General, which bears a striking resemblance to Talon’s toolings. The interior wind flap has been cut off, the tag removed, and the original owner’s name marked out on the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 24″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 24″

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G-1 Leather Flight Jacket AOPA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281384893346
This vintage leather jacket is a USN G-1 flight jacket. It has a half-belt, bi-swing back, knit cuffs and waistband, button closure patch pockets with a pencil slot and a button throat latch on the underside of the collar. There is a patch for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association on the chest, attached by pinbacks rather than stitching.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 24″

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1960s Suede Californian leather Norfolk jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281384906338
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under the Californian label. It takes heavy stylistic cues from the Norfolk jackets of the 1910s and 1920s. The jacket has two breast pocket flaps with chest pleats, a full attached belt, flapped hip pockets, and a pleated back with a scaloped yoke. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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Late 1940s mouton collar bomber jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379406025
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s. It is made of brown leather with a brown mouton collar. It has slash handwarmer pockets and a zip chest pocket. The cuffs and waistband are knit wool. The chest zipper is an early style Talon and the main zipper is a spring loaded two-way post war Crown.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of knit waistband): 24″

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Late 1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379413806
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s- early 1950s. It is a surcoat length half-belt design with flapped cargo/side entry handwarmer pockets. The sleeves have scaloped cuffs with fancy buttons. The zippers are all Talon. The lining is shredded.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
shoulder to shoulder: 19″
sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1950s fringed deerskin jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379421207
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, likely by one of the many Wisconsin deerskin leather tanneries / jacket makers. It is made of russet colored deerskin, in a western utility jacket cut with fringed front and rear yokes. It has elasticized sides, a ’50s update from the older side buckle adjusters. It has button cuffs and handwarmer pockets. The jacket does up with a Conmar zipper of the design used in the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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Korean War Pritzker G-1 flight jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271516989424
This vintage, Korean War issue G-1 USN leather flight jacket was made in Boston in the 1950s by the A Pritzker company. It is made of goatskin, with a belted back, bi-swing shoulders, underarm gussets and a mouton collar. The zipper is a Conmar, though the slider has been replaced with a newer Talon. There are stitch marks from the original owner’s nametag and a large patch on the chest. The original owner also added a map of Japan lining panel, having the original Pritzker tag re-sewn on the new panel.
Pit to pit: 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve: 25″
Length: 25″

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1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350988381
This vintage leather jacket was made in Spain in the 1970s and was sold under the Trumpeter label. It has a broad coat style collar, front and back yokes, side button waist adjuster tabs, patch pockets and a zipped D-pocket. The yokes give the jacket a bit of western flair, while the style of D-pocket and the pointed patch pockets are a stylistic quote from Cossack and Aviator jackets of the mid 1930s.
The jacket is tagged a size 42, but with a 42″ chest, would best fit a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

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1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.

The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″

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