Late 1940s Deerskin cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271647952876
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s from soft buckskin leather. Going by the unusual details, like the reinforcing stitching at the base of the bi-swing back, it’s safe to say that it was made in Denver, Colorado. The jacket has a Talon zipper front in a transitional style, with a large holed pull, unmarked slider connection and Talon branded stopbox. That helps narrow the dating down considerably, since these Denver produced jackets had their own unique style and did not follow the larger overall fashion trends the way mass produced jackets did. The jacket has flapped pockets with leather buttons, a plain front, bi-swing back, and a seam where there would generally be a half-belt, but which performs the same visual function.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

 photo edithendrick.jpg

 photo IMG_0072.jpg

 photo IMG_0073.jpg

 photo IMG_0074.jpg

 photo IMG_0075.jpg

 photo IMG_0077.jpg

 photo IMG_0080.jpg

 photo IMG_0083.jpg

 photo IMG_0084.jpg

1940s Patrick Duluth Hollywood jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479077025
This vintage jacket was made by the FA Patrick Company of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made in blue-gray striped wool, in a casual Hollywood jacket style. It has three patch pockets and a wide collar. From the label and styling, this jacket dates from the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

 photo IMG_0043-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0045-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0047-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0048-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0050-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0051-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0052.jpg

1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472895438
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid to late 1940s. It is made of goatskin, with a pointy collar, buttoned yokes which form the pockets on the front and a scalloped yoke on the back. It has a half-belt back and an action back. The jacket has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps, and belted adjuster cuffs. It is fully lined. The jacket has a Talon zipper with a rectangular hole pull and a Talon marked stopbox. The jacket has distinctive leather buttons and is made of goatskin leather. It bears an Amalgamated Garment Workers union label. The jacket is marked on the leather E5 and the size 36.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

 photo edithalfbelt.jpg

 photo IMG_0078.jpg

 photo IMG_0079.jpg

 photo IMG_0085.jpg

 photo IMG_0086.jpg

 photo IMG_0088.jpg

 photo IMG_0094.jpg

1940s Allen gabardine western cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472851496
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s by the Allen Mfg. Co. of Denver Colorado. While Allen primarily made westernwear, this jacket seems to fit more into the mold of 1940s California sportswear. It is a waist length Cossack style, with pleated patch pockets. Their angled tops wrap around into the buttoned side adjuster belts. There is a single chest pocket with a Conmar chain zipper. The main zipper is a spring loaded Crown with the “two way” teeth developed by them during WWII. It has a bi-swing back.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 26″

 photo editallen.jpg

 photo IMG_0010-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0011-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0019-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0013-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0016.jpg

 photo IMG_0021-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0022-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0023-1.jpg

1970s Brill G-1 leather flight jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472908007
This vintage jacket was made by Brill Bros under the Mil-J-7823E G-1 contract. It is made of brown goatskin leather, with a brown mouton collar and knit cuffs. The wind flap is stamped USN and the jacket does up with a Scovill zip.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

 photo editG1.jpg

 photo IMG_0001-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0002-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0003.jpg

 photo IMG_0004-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0005-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0006-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0009-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0007-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0010-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0011-2.jpg

1950s Brent norfolk jacket style coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271636765008
This vintage herringbone tweed jacket was made in the late 1950s and was sold by Montgomery Ward under their house label, Brent. It is a 1920s Norfolk style, with norfolk straps and an attached belt. The jacket has a warm pile lining and quilted sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

 photo IMG_0096.jpg

 photo IMG_0097.jpg

 photo IMG_0098-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0099-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0101-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0102-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0103-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0104-2.jpg

1940s Hercules Aviator leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281464398498
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1947 and was sold by Sears, Roebuck and Co under their Hercules label, used for leather jackets and workwear. The jacket is an “aviator” style, a style originated in the 1930s, and defined by its offset zipper front, coat style lapels, interesting pocket setup and usually by its fancy back. This example has handwarmer pockets, a chest mounted map pocket and an angled cuff detail with decorative buttons. The back is belted and has bi-swing shoulders. It has a scalloped back yoke. The main zipper is a Talon, identifiable as being made immediately post-war by its marked U shaped stop box design and square hole on the pull. The chest zipper is also a Talon, with a chain style pull and a transitional style slider. With a 42″ chest, this will best fit someone who wears a size 38.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

 photo hercules.jpg

 photo IMG_0078.jpg

 photo IMG_0080.jpg

 photo IMG_0081.jpg

 photo IMG_0093-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0094-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0095-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0082-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0084-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0087-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0089-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0090-1.jpg

 photo aviator.jpg