1950s Lockshire gabardine overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472843346
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1950s by Lockshire of Minneapolis, Minnesota. It is single breasted, with notch lapels. It has a vented back and slash handwarmer pockets. It is half-lined, as was customary at that point. The jacket has a fantastic label and a 1949 union tag. With a 48″ chest, this will best fit someone who wears a size 42 suit.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 46-1/2″

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1950s Frankoat tweed Chesterfield overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281470030913
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s by Frank Bros under the Frankoat label. It was sold in Vincennes, Indiana by Albert’s, Inc. It is made of a gray tweed wool, with a velvet collar to give it that Chesterfield overcoat style. By the way it wraps from the front to the back of the collar, my guess would be that the velvet collar was added by a tailor after the coat’s initial manufacture. The coat has a plain back and cuffed sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 45″

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1950s Land N Lakes western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281459944008
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s by the Herman K Lavin Company of Saint Paul, Minnesota under the Land-N-Lakes label. It is made of an 75% Wool, 15% Nylon and 10% Cashmere blend, with peak lapels, elaborate front and back yokes, bi-swing shoulders, scalloped pocket flaps and saddlebag pockets. These jackets are about half-way between a sportcoat and a jacket, the perfect weight for fall.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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Brooks Brothers Chesterfield Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627538100
This vintage Chesterfield overcoat was made in the 1940s for Brooks Brothers. It is made of high quality wool, with a fly front, peak lapels and a velvet collar. It is fully lined, with two inside pockets. According to the hanger chain, it was originally owned by a Jacques Sammes.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 42″

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Early’s Witney Point blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627237074
This vintage coat was made in the late 1940s. The makers label, which appears to have been originally located above the Milium label, is unfortunately missing. The coat is made of English made Early’s Witney Point blanket material, heavier and thicker than those of the Hudson’s Bay Company in this period. The coat is the classic point blanket mackinaw pattern and cut, in red with black stripes. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmers and cargo pockets. The coat is fully lined with Milium insulation.

Tagged Size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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c. 1935 Congress Sportswear half-zip, half button point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271624812561
This vintage coat was made c.1935 by Congress Sportswear and would likely have been sold under the “Maine Guide” label. This is a highly unusual and short lived style produced by Congress, with a half-zip, half-button front. The bottom half zipped up with a Talon grommet zipper, and the top with a 3×6 double breasted closure, which can be buttoned closed, buttoned like coat lapels, or open like 19th century military uniforms. The coat has a zip hood, which can be folded up and snapped (with early United Carr snaps) to form a collar. The coat is unlined, as is typical of these early mackinaw coats, and has taped seams.
The coat is readily identifiable as a Congress Sportswear product by several details. Congress was one of the only manufacturers to produce this half-and-half style, but details, like the un-hemmed bottom edge, and the contrast pocket trim and cuff adjusters are unique to Maine Guide products. These coats were produced by Congress for several other house labels, namely Abercombie and Fitch.
The coat is made from Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket, with a 1930s label. This fabric was, at the time, one of the most expensive wool fabrics available for high-end outdoors garments. The zipper is identifiable as being manufactured in the mid 1930s by its bell shape, the deco rays found both on the slider and the pull and by the oval shaped attachment piece between the slider and pull, which had been replaced by the later 1930s by a square sided bersion. The grommets of the grommet zipper, as well as the primitive stop-box, are still in place, although the current zipper, slightly shorter than the original, can be identified as a later production model Talon by its rounded edged pull and stop-box design.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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1940s Maine Guide by Congress Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271617873047
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background).

The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. There were two major waves of Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw popularity, one in the mid 1930s and one immediately after WWII. The ones from the 1940s period to which this one belongs were generally beltless and single breasted, whereas this fits the traditional mackinaw mold of the 1920s and 1930s, but with a bit more flair. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets than those found on coats dating from the 1950s-present, after manufacturing was switched from England to Canada. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.

This coat is double breasted and belted, and has stylish peak lapels and a rounded collar which I have only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat was originally unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns. At some point a lining was added to the jacket, but not finished on the bottom edge. When you lift this later lining, you can see the original tags from the Hudson’s Bay Company and from Maine Guide, as well as the taped seams that indicate its original unlined construction. The coat was originally sold by Hudson’s Sport Store of Detroit.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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Here’s a shot of a green version of this same maker and model which I sold earlier in the year, showing what the lining/construction is like without the later lining overlay  photo green.jpg

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